So I have a 1994 Case 1840. It's old, it's beat up but it runs like a champ and it digs like a boss. (With installed tooth blade) Anyway, I blew a large hydraulic line underneath of it and I'm pretty sure I know which line it is, but I can't find a way to get to it, and everything underneath is all crammed in. The bottom plate does not unbolt, and the line, along with a few others, are laying right on the bottom stuffed underneath the entire motor. I was going to start disconnecting lines at the pump one at a time and try to follow them, but I was hoping there was a better way. Anybody have any ideas for me? I'm new to repairing these kinds of things, but I'm competent enough to do it.
We had the same issue a few years ago with our farm 1840. About all I remember from helping dad( I was working out of town at the time) was that is was a major pain the the rear. About the only way is just like you described. Maybe the brain trust will pitch in here and make me feel dumb.
Does the 1840 have the cab that slides ahead like the 1845C? I know on the 1845C we had where I worked the ROPS and the fenders all slid ahead and made access to most of the parts pretty easy. As I recall the boom had to be raised up and supported with the safety support. Just checked and the 1845C was a 1989 so it is older than your 1840. As those old Cases were very similar your's could have the movable cab! Update did some looking on Google and found this YOUTUBE showing an 1840 with the cab completely off. If you can follow the guys description of how it moves you maybe able to figure yours out. It does not have to come completely off he just did that to clean things a bit better. In his video he has the drive pumps out already. But basically the four bolts he does point the location out for and some linkages and it should move. I usually used a small chain jack hooked to something in front of the 1845C and slid it forward fairly easy. If everthing is nice and clean like this guy's you could move it by hand. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8o6Sp1MTyj8
First thing is to get it clean and up on RR ties if you can, along/under the chain cases. Dirt is a big no no issue in a closed loop system and you will have to take several hoses loose. You will also need to bleed the air out of the system before restarting and moving the unit, so it's better to have the wheels off the ground. They can like said be a real pain even with angle wrenches and crowfoot wrenches.
The cab on our 1840 came out of the way, we've had it up a few times. The part that kicked our asses was trying to break the lines loose and the fittings break loose from the component instead of the line.
Won't disagree that skidsteers can be difficult to work on, especially if there is an accumulation of mud and dirt in the belly pan. But if you think a Case 1840/45 series is bad spend some "quality" time with a JCB 185 Robot!
From my very limited experience, case seems to be one of the easiest to work on, I will admit that the 75xt I have waiting on the customer to get money is wide open compared to the 1840. !840 is pretty cramped
Well, I figured out where the line is broken, I think. I'm 98% sure it's one of the large hydraulic lines going from the side of the pump to the drive. It looks like the line wraps underneath the pump and under the motor on the bottom of the pan because of its size and thickness, so it needs to be that long to bend to where it needs to go. I can see where I am able to remove the lines without taking everything else apart, but I'm running into a new problem now. I absolutely cannot get these lines off of the pump. I bought new big ass wrenches, got a great grip on them and pulled like hell, but it will not budge at the elbow. I can't figure out how I'm going to get these off. I have to remove all 4 so I can diagnose which hose is actually broken, not to mention I can't get to the drive part without removing the ones on the pump. Has anyone else had this kind of trouble with larger hydraulics? I'm sure they've probably been on there for a really long time, but still I can't believe how tight they are. I'm at a loss here. I thought I was pretty strong, but apparently it's not enough! Thanks for the replies by the way guys. I'm new to this forum and it's nice to see how helpful everyone is!
One of the problems too is that the machine is stuck in the middle of my empty property, so I don't have any power. This has to be done the old fashioned way.
Well one option that has worked in the past for me is to take a big punch and smack the flats of the fitting nut a few times to jar it loose. And if you are sure the one you are working on is the bad one or going to be replaced to save doing this job in a snow bank next February during a blizzard, take a chisle or punch to the nut and give it some good wacks in the direction to remove it. If you were near an air compressor I would suggest using an air chisel to do the same to get it broke loose. They don't have to be extremely tight but probably got water and dirt in there over the years to rust things tight. A little penetrating fluid might not be a bad idea, at least if you get it to start to move it will help it come off easier.
Sounds good. I thought of that before but I didn't have anything with me at the time. I also soaked the things in WD-40 a few times and let them sit. The threads and the nuts are shiny and almost new looking. I'm thinking maybe oxidation inside of them. I'm gonna grab a smaller punch and I also have a big 3/4" drive extension I can use to smack the flat ends. I hope these come loose. Thanks again!
I rebuilt a 1998 1840 and replaced all hoses among everything else. if one hose is leaking, the others are not far behind because they all rub against each other. see pics ..
Cajun1986, That picture gave me flash backs to the skid-steers at the quarry! Hard to believe that bottom picture is of the same machine. I would have to agree on changing or at least removing to clean and inspect all the lines while one is in there. Better to do the job once and have a dependable machine that will run for a few years that one that will have you chasing leaks ever time you turn around.
Cajun 1986, great job on the clean up and replacement. As for the original problem I ended up buying some big crows foot line wrenches for working on these units. 1800 series thru the XT series. Long 1/2 in breaker bar and or a pipe on it. Make sure to put a wrench both sides the line and the fitting. The hammer and chisel trick works some times too but some of these were JIC and some were NPT fittings. Generous application of PB blaster or KROIL helps and as a last resort a set of torches for some heat on the fittings.