I didn't want to hyjack the other case thread. There's one of these sort of local to me. Hoping to go look at it tomorrow. Case is not my first choice as I have never seen one around here but this one looks to be in nice original paint condition, has just been serviced and looks to have a factory enclosed cab but missing the door. Some research indicates these are pretty reliable due to being almost fully mechanical and minimal electronics. It has just under 1,500 hrs. Other then the obvious leaks to look for, what else goes wrong with 1840's that I should look for. The other question is there so much extra steel above the pin bosses on the rear? Some random attachment? Could it be cut off for better vision while backing up? When i started looking for a skid steer, my first look was at a Bobcat 773 but all that additional vertical lift hardware blocking view to the sides and rear immediately turned me off and started looking at 763's but nothing close to me that wasn't junk.
I have a 1830 case it has been a great machine . If i can i want to get a 1840 or 1845 someday. After you get to know your machine you will not be looking out the back or sides much you get to know in your head how close you are to things and how much room to operate you have. My brother had a 773 high lift the extra stuff never bothered me.
No experience with the 1840 but the company I worked for had many 1845's up to the 1845C when I retired. Considering the way they were treated by most in the quarry I think they were amazing machines. You could lock some of those guys buck-neckid in a padded cell with an anvil and come back in five minutes and only find iron dust on the floor!
I have a Case 1845C and it is a Great Machine. Parts are easy to get and they are pretty easy to work on. If the one you are looking at is in good condition and the price is fair I would say buy it especially with such low hours. You can still get the Cab door from SIMS ( Case 1835C, 1838, 1840 Tractor Cabs and Cab Enclosures - Sims Cab Depot ) I have their cab kit on my machine and it is great. Post some pictures of the machine that you are looking at if you can and others can give their opinions also
Owner just replied. He can't meet me there tomorrow and I can't get there in time today going to have to set a time next week This is the only picture I have
From what I can see in that picture it looks like it hasn't been beat up over the years. If it runs as good as it looks could be a good machine.
Looks like a nice one. Has the SIMS cab kit side panels. Might even have a cab heater. Looks like it has had an easy life.
If I promise not to bid against you what they asking for it. I really don't have a real need for it but sure would be handy a couple times a year!
Since the cab is grey, it is at least a 1995, so it has the single fold down lap bar. If it has 1500 hours on it, and it is in that good of condition, anything under 15K I would buy it. I have had 6 1840's in the 90's and early 2K. Great machines. Make sure the brakes work, and of course the engine is solid, but as clean as it is, I doubt there can be much wrong. The radial lift machines are much visually easier to see grading with than a vertical lift. The 773 has more lift capacity, by about 250 pounds. Other than that, I would take an 1840 over the 773.
So in looking at the pictures, it has the Sims aftermarket cab sides but I don't see any hinges or latch. So I doubt there is a door or heat. I can't tell if it has the rear window. I texted the seller for more info. If this is a fully enclosed cab, how loud are they all closed up.
Drive it up to something solid (immovable), preferably on gravel or dirt, and see if the wheels on both sides will spin over. Also, drive a straight line forward for a 100 ft or so, the backwards, will the travel levers at full throw. How far does it deviate? Some deviation is normal, but, just remember, the hydrostat system is the most expensive part to fix (tandem pump and drive motors).
Don't have anything to add about the cab, but I can say that the 1840/1845C are excellent machines. I have almost 5000hrs on my 1845C and it's never missed a day of work or had a repair that cost more than $100. The tall upright masts where the boom mounts is for the self-leveling bucket linkage on the 1845C. As I'm sure you are aware the machines share the same main frame as well as many other parts.
With the cab kit it is not any quieter or louder than without a cab. I always wear ear plugs when operating the machine. As far as it having a heater, they are usually mounted on the back flat shelf behind the seat which is the easiest place to put it but would not work that well there for keeping you warm in my opinion. I mounted mine down in the left side of the foot well, that way your feet are warm and the heat rises up from there. I absolutely love having the cab on mine for fall and winter work. It also does not really make it any hotter during warmer weather because the side and back windows open. I also have a small electric fan mounted on magnets so that it can be moved around inside the cab that I can use in the summer to keep cooler and in the winter to defog the windows if needed. As for the front door there are additional parts that mount to the front ROPS pillars on each side that have the hinges on one side and the latch catch post on the other. I look forward to seeing more information and pictures of the machine when you get it.
I did hear back from the seller. They have the door for it but was never installed. It does have the heater module on the lower left bottom cab corner as well as the rear glass. Unless someone else scoops it, I'm scheduled to go there with a trailer and check Monday afternoon
I really have zero Case experience A little searching indicates there is no glow plugs or starting aids other then a factory installed ether injection system and block heater. how cold should i expect this to start without help. Not a big fan of ether on diesels
I really have zero Case experience A little searching indicates there is no glow plugs or starting aids other then a factory installed ether injection system and block heater. how cold should i expect this to start without help. Not a big fan of ether on diesels
ooops, double post
Having 3 1845C, they usually start down to 15°F rather respectable for not having any glow plugs or grid heater, just some coughing and smoke. With that said, I put an ether kit on one. It requires ZERO operator input, and other than starting clean, you'd never know that it was there. It utilizes a temp sensor and a fogging nozzle.
If you don't get there early on Monday I will be there from Washington state to get it. This sounds like a good one.
My preference would be to install a block heater. Not sure what engine this 1840 has but would expect that Case or ZeroStart has in-block heaters to fit it! That way it should fire up good and have a head start on having heat for the heater. Not sure I would like to have to fire up any diesel around here as the thermometer on my desk shows there is 0ºF degrees outside right now.
Totally Agree with kshansen on the block heater. I put one on mine when I rebuilt the engine and it works great when it's cold outside and the machine sits outside.
As posted above, my 1845C also starts down to about 15*F, just make sure you have a good battery and starter. Just keep it cranking and eventually it fires off. That said, I do have a block heater on it and use it when I need to. Often only 15min on the block heater is enough to get it started. Mine is an OEM one from Case that installs in the freeze plug on the side of the block, I believe it is 750w.
Never looked into when I was still at the quarry but wonder if anyone sells a temperature controlled switch that you could mount at the box for the block heater? I'd like to have one set to something like 30º or so. Just leave machine plugged in while parked then if temps drop over night it would come on and be ready to go in morning. Would be better than having it on all weekend if not needed but ready for a cold monday morning.
This is w hat I have us ed when my machine sits outside and it works great. Thermo Cube Model TC-3: Thermostatically Controlled Outlet - On at 35-Degrees/Off at 45-Degrees $15.95 on Amazon
Those look like a great idea and the price is not bad! Would just need to check to see if they would handle the load of the block heaters on the bigger equipment we had at the quarry. Just did some quick checking and the block heaters on our larger machines were 1,500 watts and a 15 amp switch is suppose to be good for 1,800 watts. So as long as only one machine was hooked to each Thermo Cube it should work.
I did buy the 1840 today but was unable to bring it home. Trailer problem AKA expired registration. It is a 1998 with under 1,500 hours. All the fluids and filters have just been changed. A new battery was also installed. There is a couple of small rot holes in the bucket but totally usable as is. Was planning on a bigger bucket anyway. The tires are 90+ % and I even got a spare wheel complete. I was able to locate all the front door parts that were never installed. Over the years, it's been man handled to different locations and there's a few scratches on the plexiglass that I'm hoping with buff out but usable as is. As the door was not installed I had to connect the wiper motor to a battery to test. Works fine but needs a new wiper arm as the original got damaged. Only a slight puff of smoke starting at 40 degrees and ran smooth. It does have a heater but I forgot to test it. Everything else appears to function as it should. I'm going to try to hire a ramp truck to go pick it up. I hate buying stuff and leaving it behind I want to get the cab door frame installed and find a more comfortable seat. The engine runs smooth as silk and the engine oil is dead balls clean
So you going to let us know what you paid for it? I actually have no idea what one would go for these days.
Looking forward to hearing more about this Gem that you got. If you have questions about the cab stuff let me know as I installed the one on my machine. As always more pictures are needed.
I ran 72" buckets on my 1840's. If you get a bigger bucket just realize that its only got a 1500 pound ROC. Doesn't take much to bring the rear tires up. I am also really wanting to know what you paid for it.
Do yourself a big favor and shell out the dough for a nice new suspension seat. I highly recommend a Michigan/Milsco V5300 but anything is good. Your back will thank you.
Not sure if I paid to much or not. I paid $11,900.00 for it. It is in way better condition then anything else I looked at at any price. My search was anything under $20K. I quickly learned that pictures can and most likely will be deceiving. To the point that I actually stopped looking at the pretty repainted ones. A fresh paint job along with low resolution pictures hides a lot. I wasted a lot of time looking at "pretty" junk. This one is original paint with nothing to hide. I'm ok with what I paid for it because of it's condition. It's a 98. I'm sure I'll discover a gremlin or two but that expected for anything you buy used. I think a newer machine with the additional bells and whistles would be nice but when they break, it can get expensive fast. This ole girl is about as analog as it gets. As close to 100% mechanical as it gets. I like that. Not planning to do much to it for the rest of this winter but install the door. This spring I might do paint. I also plan to insulate the cab for comfort and noise reduction. It's also getting a rear view camera. I had my neck fused and have trouble turning around to look out the back window
Like I said not sure what one goes for but to me that does not sound like a bad price, if I had more need of one I would be glad to find one like that for that price! I understand you comments on the "pretty ones". One of my bosses was good friends with a local used equipment dealer and we always referred his equipment as having the "five gallon overhauls". Fifty feet away they might look almost new but get too close and you would start seeing things. Like a Poclain excavator I mentioned in another post about a Deutz Diesel. When checking for an engine problem I notice the nice coat of fresh paint in the groves of the pulleys for the cooling fan!
Welcome to the UNILOADER Club! I think that you paid a fair price for your machine. I definitely would have paid that for the machine. You are going to be really happy with it and find many uses for it. I could not be without mine now, I just wish I would have bought one sooner. The simplicity of the machine is a big plus, not much to go wrong with them and easy to get parts for. If you do need to do some work on it there is Tons of knowledge here on the Forum to help you. Keep us up to date on the work you do to it to make it your own.
All bought and paid for. Picking it up Saturday morning about 8-9 am I brought the door and frame parts home with me yesterday. The plexiglass was pretty rough from being bounced around. I pulled the wiper motor and thoroughly cleaned it to get a better idea of the damage. There is a couple of pretty deep scratches but mostly light scuffing. I decided to try and buff it out. I didn't have any finish buffing compound so I used the next best thing TOOTH PASTE. It took 80-90 percent off. I pulled the wiper motor off first. While standing there buffing away, I had a idea. I don't really like the wiper on the side. I really like the Bobcat dual arm ones that attach to the bottom. They clear a much bigger area. I might order one and attempt to fit it to this door
I think that is a very good price. You could probably make money on it tomorrow if you wanted. There are not many 1998 1840's running around with only 1500 hours on it. That was a great find.
At some point, if not already there, will install a block heater but the Case will be parked inside a heated garage. The garage in the pictures above has radiant heat. After the door is installed, the only plans for the rest of this winter is to adapt my Fisher 9 foot power angle plow to it. The fabrication part of that is no problem. I have watched a couple of videos on the subject and some of them mention installing pressure reducers to the plow pistons to slow their travel. Not sure about that one. According to the manual that came with it, there was a couple of options to control the aux hydraulics. On the right hand stick, I have a single button. You lift it up for continuous one way flow. There was another option for a 2 way switch for bidirectional flow which I don't have. There is a single foot control on the floor. Is that used for bidirectional flow so I can angle the plow? It was removed when the new battery was installed but not put back on. It is in the cab to be reinstalled
The foot pedal is what activates the aux. hyd. I believe there was a latch that could lock the aux. hyd. in the on position. The switch on top of the handle as I recall was for high flow hydraulics. I could be wrong it has been 20 years since I have been in one again.
With your standard handles, the button on the left handle (if used) is for high flow machines, the button on the right handle is for the horn. If you had the option handles, the switches on the right handle would be for turn signals, ride control and the horn.
Finally got it home this morning Got D.O.T'd on the way home but that's another story. The day I looked at it and bought it, I was hoping to do a cold start which in my opinion is a good thing especially with diesels. I was waiting to be shown the machine but it was driven out to where I was parked. I took the machine over to a wooded area and beat on it for a while. It didn't complain. I did forget to check the parking brake system. The controls were stiff but working Motor smooth as silk so I bought it. I got it back to the yard and installed the Door hardware. Then I went after the stiff controls and parking brake. So I started by pulling the seat and oiling every joint I could find. The left stick moves easy and springs back to center normally. The right stick is still stiff and won't spring back to center on it's own. I'll play with that tomorrow. The parking brakes are not working. All of the hardware is there. The pulley's don't turn. The cables are intact and in good shape. Problem in the plungers are stuck in the retracted position. Going to have to somehow get them out and clean things up. When I pulled the foot/battery cover I nearly crapped my pants. 2 inches of oil soaked leaves and dirt. I looked everywhere and found no indications of a oil leak. I scooped out as much as I could and found the two round holes with covers that can be used to wash it out. Then I found the two holes in the rear. One of those covers in the rear is supposed to be removed to drain the engine oil. It was not. I think it got a rookie oil change and whoever did it, just let it rip into the belly hoping it would eventually drip out. The plan is to wrestle off all four covers, remove as much by hand as I can and pressure wash the rest
Forgot to mention, got my first cold start test this morning. It was 30 degrees out. I don't think it turned a full revolution before starting That was awesome
Any chance you got any books with it? Maybe at the least the operators manual that might still be in the "glove box" inside the cab? Can vouch for it but see this on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Uni-Loader-Service-Repair-Manual-Technical/dp/B07KGJ828R If it is a quality reproduction for $90.00 would be a good deal!
Got to the bottom of the parking brake issue. Sitting in the seat, the right side was working even though the pulley was frozen. The left side is a mess. The plunger is stuck and that's because there is water in the chain case. Everything is working so for now I;m just going to drain it and put new oil in. It looks like the plunger is threaded 1/4-20 for the cable to thread into it. I'm going to try to un-thread the cable and try to use threaded rod as a puller to extract it unless someone has a better idea.
I had a bitch of a time getting that plunger out.I destroyed the cable trying to pull it out by the cable. It was stuck that hard. After measuring, I knew I couldn't get in far enough to cut the cable short enough to get a 7/16 socket on the lock nut, so I decided to donate a new deep socket to the cause. I ground through the side of the socket, threaded the cable through the hole. Slid the socket on the lock nut and with my 3/8 drive electric impact driver set to tighten, let-er-rip until it broke free or broke off. Lucky for me it broke free. Drained the case. Have to make a run to autozone for some oil. Might as well dump the good side as well.
So now the next question. Option 1. Look for 2 OEM cables. Option 2. Buy a roll of 1/8" stainless rope, 1/4-20 swage ends and tool to make my own. option 3. Buy a 10 pack of swageless 1/4-20 ends I'm seriously considering making my own stainless ones so they shouldn't fail later. Here's a crazy thought. As these cables are such a common failure point, I wonder how hard it would be to abandon the cables and retro-fit two Bobcat traction lock solenoids in their place???
I only think I had to replace a couple of those cables on any of the several Case skid steers I dealt with over many years at the shop. I think the most important thing would be to not have water in chain boxes and use them along with washing the machine when it gets nasty dirty. If the 1840 is built like the 1845C's with the slide ahead cab for access I would be doing that at least a couple times a year along with removing floor boards and belly pans to clean it out. And once it is clean spray down linkage and those pullies with your favorite flavor a spray lube. If not the slide ahead cab then remove any access panels and do the same, more so if working in muddy conditions. Some of the worst areas on the skid-steer 1845C we had at the quarry for years was under the floor your feet sit on while running the machine. Many a time It was hard to tell there was any thing under there when the floor panel was removed!
When I got my machine the parking brakes were messed up and the chain cases looked like milk shake. I drained the chain cases and cleaned them with mineral spirits. Then I refilled the cases with motor oil like the manual said, replaced the gaskets on all 4 access panels and sealed them with black RTV as extra insurance. For the parking brakes I bought all the replacement parts from Case and changed everything involved with this system and have had no problems since. I put silver anti-seize on the O.D. of the new pins that engage the sprockets through the wall of the chain case and it has been working perfectly for 7 years. Just buy all the OEM parts and be done with this part of your project. Pull the belly pans off, give it a good bath and then reinstall the belly pans with new bolts and anti seize on them. You will be happy you went to all this trouble now because you won't have trouble later.
The cable/pully system, if kept clean and serviceable works well. The issue with this system is that the brakes don't lock until the pins hit holes in the wheel. A pro tip with this system is to make sure the pins retract before you take off after pulling the lap bar down. When the machine is on flat ground and the parking system is clean and serviceable it works well. However when you on an incline for example, when you pull the lap bar down, the pins may not retract until you back up (towards the top of the incline) slightly, this takes pressure off the pins and allows them to retract. Failure to do that will result in you driving through the pins, which of course you don't want to do. I wouldn't mess with putting some kind of traction lock solenoids on this. The cables work, the pin system is what it is, once you get used to running the machine it becomes second nature.
I'm ordering 2 new cables today. I was horrified at the amount of water that was in the left side. I was sure there would be chain damage but when I pulled the cover, it looked fine. Got all the controls working pretty free. While waiting for the new cables, I'm going to pull the 4 plates off the belly, move it outside, raise the front and try to hot water pressure wash it out. I just have to put the seat and battery in to move it. Now that the chain cases are done, the only thing left service wise is to change the hydraulic fluid and filter but I need to source additive before I dump it.
Yes it takes HTO fluid. Your dealer should have it.
No Case dealers in MA. What other oil is compatible? or 10W30 oil with a separate approved additive. I don't have to do this right now but sometime soon
I am not aware of what else is compatible. It is an anti foaming agent. It requires a 10-30 plus the additive. You could find the nearest dealer and have them ship it. I am sure something else may work, but I would stick with the CASE HTO oil. It doesn't take much of it.
Not sure if you have a parts book but I have found an online one that appears to be pretty good: https://www.messicks.com/commoncatalog?vendor=cas&modelId=140799
I ordered 2 new cables on line. I emailed the closest Case dealer about the additive. I also asked if I should follow the 25+ year old manual recommendation or do they have a alternate recommendation as a lot has changed with oils in the last 25 years. To answer a earlier question, yes, I did get the owners manual with the machine that looks like brand new along with all the stuff that's supposed to be in the plastic case behind the seat. I think I was the first one to open that.
Well glad to know it was there and that finally someone might be reading it! Many years ago when I was just starting out as a mechanic, quarry had many machines with Detroits, an old guy with the dealer told my father who was working group leader that the best suggestion he could make was for me take the service manual home and read it from cover to cover. Not in one night, but at least read a few pages a night. That is what I did and I'm sure I forgot 90% of it but at least when I had questions latter on I had some ide where to find the answers. I would suggest the same for the manual from your 1840.
I use motor oil in 5 gallon buckets that I get from the local petroleum dealer with the Additive that I buy from the Case dealer. 1 qt of additive goes into 5 gals of motor oil. I don't have a local Case dealer so I order it from a dealer a 100 miles away and they ship it to me. It was about $35.00 a quart recently when I bought some.
Detroit diesels. I'm old I had a truck with a 671 and later with a 871. I thing they contributed to my hearing loss
As to the hydraulic oil, all of us Case guys may be looking for something else soon. Was at the case dealer a couple weeks ago and was told the HTO additive has been discontinued by case, what ever is in dealer stock is all thats left. This is a large multi-branch dealer that has an excellent parts dept so I tend to believe it is true. I asked what we are supposed to run instead of HTO and he said just straight 10w-30. I do not like that answer. Planned obsolescence?
Mine have been on TO4 10w for 30 years. Had a very educated and enlightened discussion with a Sunstrand Sauer engineer years ago. Now, with said, mine all have High flow kits, and, they used to run straight ten hours cutting roads. The hydraulic overheating is what was shown to me as to my hydrostat wear issues, not the oil. Alitec added zero extra cooling or oil capacity when they (Alitec) engineered their high flow kits.
Well if CASE is doing away with HTO, I am sure that some other antifoaming additive would work. The 1800 machines are the only ones that use the stuff. Why those machines require it and no other machines do, I don't know.
It's got 1400 hours on it. I can only assume that it got it's 1000 hour fluid change as it looks like the filter had been done at some point so now it's just short of the 500 hour filter change. So for now and until I sort this out, I'm going to crack the drain plug to make sure there's no water in the tank and replace the filter.
It currently has a NAPA 1482 filter on it so something has been done
So this afternoon I'm looking at the seat. This one has the optional "deluxe" suspension seat. The name on it is Milsco. I can't find a model number. It appears that the mechanical part is in very good condition. Anyone know if replacement cushions are available?
Can't say as never had fancy suspension seats in and Case Skids but: try this contact for those seats: https://www.milsco.com/contact/
I got the same answer today when I tried to order some HTO fliud from a dealer. They read me the memo from Case. Hopefully somebody will come up with an alternative.
Making good progress on this. Mostly freeing up stuff from sitting so long. Mostly zero dollar stuff. Steering and bucket controls were very stiff. Had to pull the seat and free stuff up. Some of which required taking things off to free up. Pulled the front foot plate off, only to find who ever installed the new battery left it loose because they snapped both retaining bolts. Fixing that today. Because the belly pan does not come off of this, you have to rely on the covered holes in the 4 corners to clean it. That took me hours to clean and I'm sure I didn't get 100% of it. When I got it, the peddle for the aux hydraulics was removed. That valve and linkage was frozen. That's working now. I was unable to remove the bucket because those pins were seized. Penetrating fluid for a couple of days and a BFH solved that. Got that to move and greased it. That's fine now. So far the only money spent was for the unexpected oil change in the chain cases, a hand full of new bolts/clevice pins and the parking brake cables that I ordered.
Was forced to walk away from this for a couple of days. My elderly mother passed away and had to do the family thing. All good. It wasn't unexpected. Nuff said. Got back to puttering around with this. Today I finally got around to dealing with the loose battery. The original setup was a plate bolted down on the 4 corners with some kind of insulation between the plate and belly pan. It was pretty much completely rotted out so I completely removed it, cleaned the belly and drilled through the belly and used 3/8 threaded rod to secure the battery. I didn't want to set the battery directly on the belly so I cut a scrap of 3/8 plywood and wrapped it with R-7 HVAC bubble wrap. It ain't goin no where. Then I moved to the cab heater. It was heating up from the engine coolant but the fan wasn't working so I took it apart. Bench tested it and both speeds work. Suspect just a bad ground internally as there is only 2 wires coming out (high and low speed). I'm going to put it back together with a 3rd wire (ground) so I won't have to worry about that again
My parking brake cables should be here on Wednesday. That will finish the mechanical gremlins for now. Next will be electrical. The lights are not coming on with the switch. I had to remove them to install the cab door frame. Bench testing them proved they all work so I have to sort that out. I also want 2 work lights in the rear and I want tail lights with flashers. Not sure why Case didn't include any type of rear marker lights. I will also add some form of roof mounted amber strobe light. Last but not least, I'm going to get a blank plate for the front and adapt my Fisher power angle plow to it. It's a 9 footer. Hope the ole girl can handle it
Parking brake is reassembled and functional. Only thing is I'm not sure if it's adjusted correctly. I don't have a service manual. I know they're fully in lock position because I lucked out and the holes were almost perfectly lined up. With the front jacked up, slightly rotating each wheel allowed them to snap into place. I currently have them adjusted so they are not flopping around but no tension on the wires.
Not sure why Case didn't put any rear lights other then the single work light on these but I corrected that last nigh
I think this machine might have Canadian roots. If I'm not mistaken, commercial plowing equipment there is supposed to display blue. No lights on the rear but blue reflectors.
Finished the installation of the lights. Decided to go with red. These are combination running, brake/directional so I'll have running lights when the work lights are turned on and flashers when needed. Not sure why Case didn't include some form of lighting on the rear. There is now. FYI cutting those oval holes was a royal PIA.
After the lights, I got to thinking about the aftermarket cab heater. It cranks out a decent amount of heat, but it's all directed at your feet. Heat rises and the cab does get reasonably comfortable but there is nothing blowing on the windshield to keep it from freezing up if you are using it during a snow storm. I had to employ a little red neck creativity to get a functional defroster with stuff I had on hand. I had some leftover 2" conduit pipe and fittings from the underground electric service feeding the new garage this is sitting in. I cut a 2.5 inch hole in the top of the heater and installed a 2 inch box connector. Then I used 10 inches of pipe and a pre-made 45 degree bend to point at the center of the windshield. I cut the end of it at a angle to match the door frame. Works perfectly. It's not glued so it can be easily removed when not needed
A couple of years ago, I had my neck fused at 2 locations. The result of that is I can't turn my head far enough to look out the rear window while backing up. Tonight's project is to install a wifi backup camera with a app on my tablet to use the tablet as a monitor. Pictures to follow.
These 2 pictures show how well the new work lights light up the area front and rear
I bought a wifi backup camera that uses a app on a phone or tablet so you can use the phone or tablet as the monitor. One picture shows the camera mounted to the upper rear between the work lights. The other image shows the tablet mounted, running the app and showing the rear view.. Pay no attention to the orange wire. It's just a drop light
Yesterdays project was to replace the 2 broken wheel lugs. Did that, then pulled all the wheels, wire brushed all the lugs and never-seized them all. What good is a spare tire if you can't get the wheels off. After that, I changed the right side chain case oil. That side was only slightly cloudy. If you remember, the left side had water in it. I think I see a crack in the left rear plastic inspection cover but can't even put my hand on it without rolling the cab forward. It's parked inside so I'll save that for the next time the cab has to be moved. While it was off the ground, I checked wheel bearings for play and found non. Also checked chain adjustment. All were the same with about 3/4 inch of play measured at the wheel
I love my 1845c. I bought it for 5000 in 2009 when I came home from Iraq. I threw all the crank bearings because I got stuck in soft dirt on a very steep downhill. I am still rebuilding it to run again with a 107 hp 4bt from Big Bear. I had to solve a lot of problems with accessories on the turbo, but I got them all solved. Finishing up some custom rewiring. The 1845c is a great machine, a real workhorse, that isn’t complicated and easy to work on.
Doubleing the HP is going to be very hard on the drive components and everything else for that matter. Consider the 1840 in another thread with the cracked frame. Everything is designed to operate at a specific power rating. You could have early failure because the drive could fail before the engine even sensed a high load. I don't know if the turbo could possibly be deleted. Sorry, but 107 HP in a 6000lb. skid steer seems like a recipe for disaster. There's so much excess HP that it will be hard to judge when you're over working it.
I’m also at 8000 feet in Colorado. Turbo is the best thing up here. I’m not running at full RPM, never needed to. The drive system pumps and the accessory pump produces the same pressures no matter what HP the engine is. The turbo engine is better built and more efficient. You must think that the drive train connects to the engine the same way as in a truck. You clearly have never taken apart the pump, hydraulic motors, gears and chain drive system. Their limits are based on hydraulic pressure, not torque from the engine. An engine with more power ensures that the hydraulic pressures are more constant. The U-joint between the engine and the drive pump is more than enough to handle the power from the engine. High, damaging torque comes from changing extreme RPM’s in less time, in seconds.
easy WD would the hydraulic relief valves not come into play here
There was another thread dealing with this issue but I can't remember exactly which one. I think it was concerning a 743 Bobcat and someone wanted to put a V2203 in it to replace the V1702. Someone with more hyd's. experience said you wouldn't want to add more than about 8 HP if you wanted it to last. There was also a thread about putting a higher HP engine in Cat hydrostat track loader and the consensus was the same. You're not talking 10 HP, you're talking over double the HP! I think an 1845C is rated at 53 HP and you put in a 107 HP engine. How can you not think there could/would be issues? You can stall the engine on a skid steer if you push it hard enough. It's not that hard actually. Having twice the designed HP would make it much harder to stall and put that much more stress on the drive system. Drive motors and pumps do fail on hydrostatic machines. They are also designed for specific a HP. Relief valves help but if you're hitting the relief valve pressure more often, your components life will be shortened. Especially when you have so much excess power, you won't always know how much load you're putting on the system. You'll be spinning the tires effortlessly. Running less than full throttle isn't the best option either as it's also harder on the pumps and motors. Engine, pumps, motors, U-joints, axles, drive chains, sprockets, hubs, wheels, etc. are all designed to work together based on the design HP to drive the pumps. There is some safety factor but not for twice the design HP. The poor drive chains won't know what hit them.
1st, the sundstrand M46? pumps and motors are used on much higher horsepower machines ( think tl150 for the pumps). Having beat the bejesus out of 4 1845C machines in the fleet, the weak link has always been the driven chains and cracking at the rear boom pin bosses.
I've never seen a skid steer in western Canada with blue lights or reflectors. Maybe a central Canada or east coast thing?
I would think there might be different HP ratings for different pump/motor combinations but like you stated the drive chains and cracking around boom pin bosses are weak links. All that extra power just makes it more susceptible to highlighting the weak area's. An 1845C was never engineered as a 100+ HP machine where a TL150 was. Not sure a TL150 is even 107 HP??
Sorry...a TL150 only has 97hp.
The hydrostat system might be able to handle the extra HP but the rest of the drivetrain isn't designed for it. Sounds like a neat re-power though. It would be better if you could reduce the HP some.
Fun project but truly wasted power. Whatever the stock HP is 54? is sufficient. I run out of traction before the motor bogs down. It will tip trying to pick something up long before the motor is taxed
In what would be tough conditions for the stock motor, twice the HP is more likely to expose the weakest parts of the machine.
Just an example of uses for extra HP When there is a heavy load on auxiliary hydraulics (such as brush mulcher) while wading thru mucky conditions and raising/lowering boom all at the same time Anyone that has ever done major brush mulching will know..... I agree that any day to day errands will not require extra hp
The problem is a skid steer is designed as a digging and loading machine first and foremost. Extra HP would work great for snowblower too but then the machine should be designed primarily as a snowblower.