I'm new here my dad has just brought a case 1845b and the bucket lifts and tilts fine but when you go to move for words or back it moves 3 to four inches then starts to stall the engine. Haven't checked pressure in the lines but it stalls the motor so it should be getting pressure! Is there a valve that would cause this to happen?
Welcome to HEF danbokker! You would likely have a problem with your brakes. They are basically a pin which engages a hole in the drive sprocket. There is one for each side. Lift the floor plate & look for the two cables that go to each side, they should withdraw the pins when the brake is released. After the brakes are released, you sometimes need to to move the machine a little to release them. eg. if the machine is pointing downhill, you need to back up a little to release the pin from the sprocket.
:exactly:iagree Thanks, Arlman, saved me a bunch of typing!
The brakes are locked off you can tow it around.
???? Do you mean the valves in the drive motors are in the "towing" position? Been a few years since I worked on one of these so maybe it is just because the valves need to be put back in the correct position for operation. Hope someone with access to the correct towing procedure could tell how to "Un-tow" this machine??
Theres a lever next to the throttle that ingages the brakes it has 2 wire cables that run to to a pin that slides in to the drive gear. They are locked off ( as in pull out to disigage the the pins in the drive gear. Where would the vale on the motors located. Feel free to call 0488535116
Best picture I could find online is in this link: http://www.colemanequip.com/Case-1845-Uniloaders-Skid-Steer-Loaders-Parts/No-Description-vg/D75925-VARIABLE-DISPLACEMENT-PUMP-CESSNA-NO-70442-DAZ-02Av/?#partdiagrams Look up near the top of pump at the parts around item # 20 . There will be one of these valves for both right and left drive pump. AS I recall they are a 1/4 turn valve/ I'd try tuning 90º from where they are now and see if that helps. If I'm seeing the spool correctly in the drawing it should have flats on the side so when the flats are facing front and back it would be in the "TOW" mode. When the flats are to the right and left it should be in the drive position.
I have looked at the motor and there's no valve. There's the two main drive hoses and a smaller hose going to a block with fittings all around it and a hose returning to the tank. Would that block be the valve. The smaller hoses come from both drive motors.
The tow valves were not standard on all machines. There are four valves installed above the main hose ports to each motor, two on the rt and two lt.. When you screw the valve out it lets the oil go by the relief allowing it to be moved for repair. If they have plugs in the ports it does not have a tow valve system unless the main pump has been changed out to a newer style. Have you moved the machine before and did it move. Is your engine rpm up when trying to move it, they will stall at low rpm. What is the history, from a owner, auction, an as is where is case with no history. I would go back and check the parking pins like alrman asked about. Pull the seat and pull the cable/pins as far as you can move them with the lever in the unlock and see how much farther they travel. You may want to put it on blocks for safety reasons when doing these checks. Charge relief is 150 psi min at full throttle, high pressure relief at 5000 psi +/- 200 psi at 10 gpm.
I think that block is the motor drain line. There's a valve in the bottom dose that vale bleed the system.
The owner said it slowly got worse
Are you running a gas or diesel engine?, and any idea of the hours of use?. The block on the return leak off for the motors has a one way check valve I seem to think only letting flow to tank, there should be a plug in the top and two other ports capped off. You may try to slip both drive motors back from the planetary units and try the forward and reverse and see if it still stalls the engine, each pump and drive motor is in a loop, the charge pump replaces oil that leaks out the case drain lines back to tank. Hose connections must be clean, no dirt can be allowed to enter the loop when loosening/removing the large pressure lines, air must be bled from the pump and loop before starting if unhooked. I think you have some internal damage with your system. If the machine was towed it could have damaged the planetary gears or even broken a chain rapped up in the chain compartment, Have you looked to see if all chains are on the sprockets.
All chains are good and its diesel not sure about hours. How much pressure should there be at the charge line? There's pressure at the controls and it goes to the end pump then to the charge inlet to the drive pump. The hydraulics work and the charge line sucks from the control box so there should be pressure there. Dose it bleed through the lines going from the drive motors to the tank
That puts a different spin on the story! I'd try what sheepfoot says about trying to pull drive motors out of the plantaries while still being hooked up to see if they work. If they will run in both directions nice and free then the next thing would be to check for problems in the gear/chain system. Another thing to check would be to remove hydraulic filter and cut it open to see if there is trash in there.
When we got it the owner said it worked fine but slowly lost drive then he parked it. We noticed it had a leaking drive motor hose when we picked it up we changed the hose with a new one (blow it out with a bit of cloth) and the drive didn't go. Do you have to bleed them or are they self bleeding
Changed the filters and jacked all four wheels up and the wheels went backwards and forwards fine but soon as you put it on the ground it stalls. Could the main drive pumps be bugged.
Have you checked fuel supply & filters for water or blockage? Is the air filter clean? Does it blow smoke when it dies down? Could be an engine power problem.
You should always bleed the air out when changing hoses in the loop if possible, the pumps on a new install are prefilled with oil into the fitting at the top of the motor and bled to the hp hoses while using the starter to turn the pumps but not allowing the engine to start. It's just a good practice to do. Reading that the system is working off the ground brings back to alrmans questions about engine conditions causing it to fall on it's nose. Does your machine have a elect fuel pump added to the fuel lines before or after the small lift hand pump on the lines from the tank?. Due you have access to a strobe tach to check the high and low rpm, high idle no load 2350 +/- 50, rated speed 2200 rpm, low idle 825 +/- 25 rpm. Due you have a compression tester for the engine ?. The compression test, cranking 400 psi at 200 rpm w/25 psi between cylinders. Running test 480 psi at 800 rpm, 20 psi between the cylinders. You could also have a injection pump on the engine with internal issues, low voltage issue to the pump shutoff. You may want to replace the two sections of fuel hose from the tank to fuel filters while doing your other checks, those little hand lift pumps can also cause running issues.