My sons Case 1845C has got the right side drive that will no longer pull itself,other than in a strait line.Has no power for pushing or turning.would the problem most likely be drive motor,pump,or both.it has got bad over a period of time.left side seems ok!
You will need to check the pressure on that side, when you go in reverse will it pull and turn on that side?
Will double check but as I recall,no power for or rev. At startup it has a little power on that side but very soon (a minute or so) almost nothing.
I'm replacing the tandem pump in my 1845c only after replacing the drive motor for the right side. I took the drive motor to 2 different hydraulic Shops both said it was bad so we replaced with a new one cost about $900. But after new one was installed still the same thing wouldn't hardly pull itself with the right side. So now a third hydraulic shop has the pump but they just got it Thursday so I still don't know what they found yet. Just thought I would share what I've been working though the last few weeks. One thing I did since I didn't have any gauges was switch the lines around to see if the problem was the same on the drive opposite side. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the reply,So am I right in thinking that there is one pump that is actually two pumps,and two drive motors.When you switched lines, did the problem go to the other side?
Yes it did switch sides.
Well if problem moved with the hoses then the problem is the pump. Then again if pump was bad to begin with I would expect the motor to be damaged from what ever was coming oout of failiing pump. As the oil is common to everything hydraulic on the machine a good cleaning of the complete system is needed or else the problem will keep coming back. At the least I would want to drain the oil and replace filter/filters and run for a short time and change oil and filters again. Then cut open the filter to see what is in it. If anything is found repeat till you can cut open a filter and not find anything. Oil and filters are cheaper than pumps and motors.
I did not think to ask but did you check the tow valve on that pump to see if it's set.
If you could let me know how this comes out,that would be great.Are you having your pump rebuilt or getting an exchange? sounds like I will be looking to get ours done somewhere.
they called today and said we would be better off to buy a reman or new one at a price tag of $2700 it would cost more in parts and labor to rebuild my. I've got another shop checking on prices also.
Thanks,the best we have found is around $2500+shipping.Sounds like that is the going rate.OUCH!!!
Checking the restriction orifice If you would like to do a quick check on the orifice on that pump that's weak. Unhook the elect wire to the injection pump shutoff, go to the linkage that connects with the main drive pump in question. At the pump linkage inline with the shaft that goes into the pump you will see a plug that screws straight down, unscrew the plug, inside you will fine a orifice, unscrew it out. Place a rag over the hole. Crank the machine but (do not start) let some oil flow out to remove a possible piece of trash that mite have been floating near the orifice. Also check the orifice fitting for a blockage. Reinstall orifice and plug fitting. Hook up the elect wire back to the injection pump and try machine. Later units had a screen for this orifice to help prevent a blockage. This is just something you may want to try and see if it helps the drive issue.
Somewhat good news one of the other shops found a reman. For $2100 + core exchange and shipping.
Thanks for the tip,will be be checking it out soon.Now that snow is about here,its time to fix this summers carnage!!!
Where is this orifice u speak of? Is it on the drive motor or tandem pump?