Seems I'm running out of options and the rings are bad. I need to do a second compression test to confirm. What would you all recommend? I just had the head rebuilt as I thought that's where the oil was coming from but after that it's still wet stacking. Injectors test ok. When the head was off the cylinders looked good still chrome lined but I didn't do a chemical test. If chemical test says chrome is good would you just do rings or would you do sleeves as well? I don't have equipment on site to pull engine, I know that's ideal but we'll see how things go.
When I did my 207D I bought a piston and liner kit from agkit I think it was. It wasn't too expensive maybe $600 and the quality was good. That was several years ago. I would go that route.
That's what I was looking at. Do the liners need to be finished after installed or are they already finished? Where did you get sleeve puller? I can many if needed.
I have never seen liners in kits that were not honed and ready to install. You don't need a sleeve puller. The liners can be removed by using a brass punch and a hammer. Turn the block upside down and tap on the bottom of the sleeve.
I made a puller using threaded rod and whatever scrap flat bar I had, just grind a radius to match the liner. Pretty easy and worked well. The liners are ready to install. A tip the cylinder head guy have me was to wrap the crank rod journals with electrical tape until your ready to connect the rod. Seems like no matter how careful you are something happens. I recall thinking I was glad I did.
You did in-frame too? I assume you didn't remove the crank? Can you change the main bearings without removing crank shaft?
Or I don't don't touch the main bearings, it has good oil pressure 70 cold 60 hot?
I took the engine out. As far as replacing main bearings, I don't know what the situation is with your machine, the history, how often you use it etc. but I wouldn't want to replace the main bearings without taking the crank out.
I usually wrap a rag around the journals and wrap the rag with electrical tape to protct the journal from a bang. Simon C
The upper main bearings can be easily removed by inserting head of nail in the crankshaft oil hole and then rotate the crankshaft. File or grind the nail-head to get the proper clearance. Slide a piece of hose slightly longer than the connecting rod bolts will protect the crankshaft from damage.
Fuel hose 6 inches long pushed onto the rod bolts will guide your rod right it......just like Tinkerer does.
Engine runs good, just did head job. Just pushing lots of oil out the exhaust. Might pull the engine and have it be my winter project. I won't be able to do in-frame till spring since I'll be working outside.
Cool! You could then use plastigage to check the clearance, right?
Probably wouldn't be as good of a test as if there was nothing attached to crankshaft.
580c engine removal, can I leave power shuttle attached if I remove the front radiator shroud /cover? Or do I need to remove the power shuttle from the bell housing first?
Mine was in a case 450 track loader so I don't know. I took everything off the front and moved the engine only out the front. I just can't remember what I used. It must have been an engine hoist.
Well compression test says 320psi on all cylinders. Same as before head rebuild. Adding oil to cylinder doesn't change pressure readings valve lash checks in spec