I have a 2013 case sv300 with just over 2100 hrs there’s been some water dripping into the fuse box now it won’t start . When I sit in the seat it beeps and press the power button dash lights up but the start button is not flashing and there’s nothing when I press start . I tried to change relays with no luck any help would be appreciated thanks . It’s been down since last summer I thought I would let it dry out with no luck
While I'm not a mechanic, I've operated equipment for a while. The first thing I would do is have a good look at the fuse box. You mentioned water was dripping into it. Pull every fuse, breaker, and relay and check for signs of moisture and corrosion. Carefully clean as necessary. While you're there check each fuse individually to make sure it's not blown. It doesn't take much to shut down a machine that's electronically controlled.
I have done that numerous times with no luck
Have you checked every receiver female pin that the relays go into to see if one is loose. I fixed one Case TV 380 that was loose and it stopped popping the fuse. Every relay has to be tested for ability to carry load, not just switch with worn out contacts inside and nothing runs.. Simon C
Post your serial number as I do have 2 different SV300 Electrical schematics and need to see if I have the correct one for your machine. The machine that I fixed only had 800 hours at the time and had blown the fuse 5 times in 2 minutes or so. Has never done it again since I tightened up all the female receiver pins. Simon C
I have tried to mess around with the wires and took out every fuse and checked them and changed relays to new ones. Could be something in the wiring because after I got this skid steer couple weeks later the radio and the heater would not work until I switched the lights on and everything was working. There is a short somewhere pretty frustrating since I spent 40 K on it and put 10 hours maybe if that. is there a way to try to engage the starter from the fuse box somehow?
Have you raised the cab and checked undeneath for mice eaten wires, bad grounds, or anything else obviously wrong. Have you checked for power to the Coil Circuits of the Crank relay, Main Power Relay , Accessory Relay. Have you tested if the cab ground is good to the battery Negative along with clean power to all the fuse supplies. I do not like the tiny relay junk Case is using with the tiny pins that if one is loose your dead in the water. I have made some breakout leads to have relays easily tested. Do you have a schematic for your unit, as my schematics start with S/N NCM 445308 up and another one. Your serial number is different. Are you using a Multimeter or a test light to check all the fuses. I am not there so am just asking questions. Do you understand what the line side of a fuse is versus the load side? Most others who have worked on these will tell you that they are not the nicest.
I have not lifted the cab since I can’t. You have to raise the bucket above the cab to tilt the cab and the unit is not starting. I do not have schematics for it and haven’t tried multimeter on the fuses but they are not blown. I wish I would’ve kept my 1845C never had any issues with it. This thing is a nightmare.
I have never worked on one of those. If water was getting into the fuse box, I would really spend some time looking at that. I don't know what it is like at all since I have not worked on one. Look at the back side of it to. There may be a wire broken or corroded off. The wires they use on this newer stuff are so much smaller than they use to be. Also need to do some voltage checks at the fuse box to see that you're getting good power there when you turn some loads on. Next would be to check some safeties like seat bar/belt, cab door. I have never worked on one, but that would be how I would approach it if it was in my shop.
How are you testing the fuses?
I took every fuse out and looked at them visually and have replaced every single relay with new ones
Looking at them is a good second step but doesn't mean they aren't blown. The first step in a situation like this IMO would be testing the fuses in situ with a multimeter or test light. I'm a slow learner I guess, because I had to experience wasting hours on troubleshooting a circuit only to find the fuse that looked good had no continuity, twice. Since the second time I look at the fuses with a multimeter at a minimum. I like to use a test light with an incandescent bulb also since it actually draws a little current that provides a miniature load test. Make sure you have the correct voltage UNDER LOAD at the source and work your way out from there. Good luck to you! It can be frustrating troubleshooting this stuff but enjoyable as well.
You could raise the cab if you loosened the hose fittings on the lift cylinders, had all the securing bolts removed and another big machine lifted it up until you could lock it in place and raise the cab to check under. I had to do exactly this on a Volvo MCT 135C that blew a hose under the cab. I know where your fuse panel is and maybe with the seat out you could get at the back side of the fuse panel, not sure, if not it will have to be boom up and locked. You will have to start somewhere. Not sure if that thing will start without being in the seat. Operators manual will tell you. Do you have one? Simon C
I had a fuse blown like that once, meter said good but test light proved it was burnt. Only 3 hours wasted was what it costed. Live and Learn Simon C
I don’t have another machine to lift the boom. Is there another fuse panel under the seat ? The only one I know of is in the cab on the side
And I do not have owners manual never came with one
Locate and purchase the owners manual at a minimum. If you're doing most of the work on it you need service manuals as well. You can try CNH's online resources but unless they've changed recently it can be a challenge to find what you're looking for. At least that's been my experience. Do you have a good relationship with a Case dealer? If so the service manager may be willing to email wiring schematics to you. If not, try donuts and small talk when you're there next time.
Just wanted to say that that is a very dirty fuse panel that is obviously missing the cover. These new machines have 10 times the wires of the old machines. Dont like rainstorms, like to be dry, out of the sun for the monitor panels. Wires in the sun will eventually crack. This is not the old days, buy the stuff you need or hire a mechanic to help as these machines need lots of technical stuff to keep running. I wondered if there is a removable plate under the seat to get to backside of fuse panel. Simon C
Check the pouch on the back side of the seat in case if it is hiding in there.
I would get some contact cleaner and clean that whole fuse panel and then take an air gun and blow it off. Maybe go so far and take a heat gun or hair dryer on low heat and warm up the fuse panel to get any remaining moisture out of it. If you can’t turn it enough, use a mirror to look at the backside of the fuse panel to look for any green snot and clean as necessary. I have a Speed Blaster specifically for blasting fuse panels and terminals, to clean all the contacts. While you’re at it, I would replace all those fuses because they look ripe for corrosion. Any moisture will screw up any contacts as the water sources to ground and may not blow a fuse but will definitely screw up any electrical connections.
I will get some contact cleaner and new fuses . I did find owners manual online but the fuse box seems like diffrent configuration
The fuse box diagrams shown in Case's ops manuals is weird, you have to hold the diagram upside down I think in order for it to make sense. I've noticed in the picture you posted that fuse box looks light on fuses. Are you sure they are all installed? There is one 10 amp? fuse that if missing or blown will cause your exact symptoms.
All fuses are in, but I took all the relays out. That’s where all the empty space is. In that picture