Hello, I'm currently in the process of changing the brakes on my 310. The differential oil was very dirty. Was wondering if the oil should be changed at a regular interval to help keep the pads in better shape. Also I'm having a hard time finding GL-1 mineral oil. Could I use non detergent 30W or 40W instead, for the diff. Thanks
You can use the case #1 engine oil SAE30 at a temp -20 to +60, also a 135-H EP gear lube above +10 F several different grades depending on a single or multi weight range.
The recommended oil for the trans is 90 mineral gear oil. I always found the problem with the 310 brakes was getting them to grip, I never wore a set out. most people I knew who had these broke the bands before they wore out Internal adjustment is critical, you need to as little free play as possible as possible, but if they are too tight they will not release properly, and they are not easy to adjust once everything is back together again.
I had a 310 hilift, many moons ago, and remember the requirement for mineral oil. Is the engine oil compatible with the brake bands?
I would think the problem would be that the oil has to lubricate the gearbox and planetary differential which require extreme pressure gear oil rather than engine oil. The benefits to the brake bands either way would be negligible I would have thought.
Well I have searched high and low for the answer and there doesn't seem to be a clear one. I've read that the additives in the 90w GL 4/5 gear oil will clog up the bands, I've also read that it doesn't really matter the bands will always glaze over. I'm going to try the non detergent oil. If it doesn't work........then back to the drawing board. Keep in mind that this machine is for my hobby farm. Mostly used in the winter for clearing snow.........
You could try punching in these two searches ( general 1- viscosity oil company) and (1 general viscosity oil company). Some of the lube charts have been changed due to different lubes out there, this is what case has.
The hydraulic brake system uses mineral oil in the master cylinder instead of dot3. I have a 310f op manual in my shop somewhere. We have a 310g with a loader that grandpa bought new in '62. I put brake drums and bands in it in the 90ies. It is a tight fit working in that little rear end.
I think what we're talking about here is the 310 crawler, since we're in the dozer section. I know Case also made a 310 tractor on rubber, which would be a whole different animal. IIRC, the crawler simply had mechanical linkages from the steering levers to the brakes, and if you pushed on the brake pedal, a rod that was connected to both sides applied both brakes, so the machine would stop. No master cylinder involved.
Sorry, Digger is right, the bigger crawlers have master cylinders. It's been a few years since I was on our little crawler.