I went with my son to look at a 480D, that developed a bad motor knock, while burying a dead goat. Perched on the edge of a huge hill all summer, it did start finally. Blowby didn't seem too bad but I didn't run the engine too long. Seemed to be missing and had no power, but I did get the outriggers up. Couldn't just leave her there so I bought her and brought her home to the shop. I cut open the oil filter and found a few grindings. No coolant in the oil pan. I'm going to pull the cylinder head and the oil pan off. I'm hoping for a good crankshaft. Will post some pictures as I go. Phil
Another Project ! Just how many machines have you got now Phil????
LoL, yeah, he seems to have a nose for finding machines alrman. Nice find Phil, your going to have to send some more pics of it, and of the 580K your working on.
I've just got the 580SK with the weak shift and this one. The 580K is sold...but then I have the Fordson Major tractor I'd like to put the ** hoe attachment on. I'm fearing the 580SK needs to be pulled apart as the gear shift moves back and forth a bit, in 1st gear, when shifting from forward to reverse. Haven't had a chance to work on it yet. Going to try to get the 'goat' machine fixed first. More pictures coming. Phil
Phil, the SK problem you have with gearshift moving in 1st gear - those transaxles have a bad habit of breaking transaxle mounting bolts - there are only 4 holding in the whole thing. Make sure that they are all there & tight - the whole transaxle could be moving around..
Okay, I'll check that out. I was just under the machine today looking at those bolts, wondering how much of a job it is to pull the unit out if needed. Phil
Started pulling the engine apart today. The #4 piston has been hitting the cylinder head and it's connecting rod is very loose on it's journal . Phil
Looks like you dove right in to it Phil. Can't wait to see it going again. There's just something about the thought of a machine that dies while burying a dead goat, some kind of connection there. I know, call it the "dead goat D". :tong
I got the motor out of the 'dead goat D' yesterday and laid it on some 2"x8"s placed across the frame. The crankshaft took a beating on #4 rod journal, worn about .010" on one side and the shaft is already .010 and .010 undersized. I have seen worse. Sometimes the journal turns blue from the friction and always a good chance for heat cracks. After measuring the shaft I realized this is not a 207 engine but a 188, despite the block having the reliefs for the larger connecting rods. The chewed up operators manual I found in the cab verified it was a 188 engine. I took my old 530 spare engine apart and found an excellent standard crank . Also ordered 4 cylinder kits today. Phil
Sounds like you'll have the dead goat D going in no time!
your sure dont waste any time phil! i guess it pays off sometimes to have a spare parts inventory
Quick indeed... If it doesn't work out, I could use that counter weight... My 580D is nekkid on the front. Makes roading a little too interesting.
Phil, What do you use to take the loader off the backhoe? Do you have an overhead crane or a hoist or another piece of equipment? Or do you just muscle it off?
I just block the loader up and work under it. Yes I was so lucky to have that crankshaft. It miked out at 2.061" on rods, even on the thrust side, and 2.8735"on the mains. I gave it the hammer test and it rang like a bell. I'm carefully cleaning the block where it sits, always a danger of something getting in an oil gallery. Ordered the converter seal, and speedy sleeve for the front crankshaft 'hub'. My old sears drill and a wire wheel cleaned the liner bores at the bottom, and I used steel wool carefully on the counterbores at the top. No visible cracks between the liners. The liners were sealing well, as the head gasket showed, but I will check the liner height and head/block surface anyway. More pics, still trying to get the old Olympus to take better pictures. Phil
Phil, What do you use to pull and replace the cylinder liners ? Do you make your own pullers or do you buy the outrageously expensive ones made by Case ?
I've been using a big piece of round aluminum bar stock and tapping them out from underneath. I've got to take the time to make a puller for this, good project to post. I've also got to find a 7/8"x18 nut to make a puller for the tach drive. However I was able to remove it without damage, with a 7/8x14 NF nut, a pry bar and a little heat on the edge of the casting. Took the block outside today to give it a final clean with the power washer. All grease and oil has already been cleaned off so no environmental issue. Took both oil gallery plugs out, washed every gallery out, then blew it out with compressed air. Hopefully I got any metal particles from the bearing failure, out. Cam bearings were okay. Phil
Dead goat D Checked the cylinder block with a straightedge made just for this, and newspaper(.003"). Reinstalled the camshaft with engine assembly lube. The cam follower surfaces were checked and put back in their original location. The crankshaft, then the oil pump was installed after repairing a stuck oil bypass valve. Timing cover is ready to install. Replaced the converter seal to be safe. More pics, Phil
Hey Phil, the goat must be starting to stink eh!
back to work Finally got back to work on this machine after some delays. Most Case construction models with the G188, use the wider flange liner. A quick check on the liner height, note that this is not a very accurate method. Bolts hold the liners in place until the cylinder head is installed. Phil
Ground the valves and seats with my Sioux machine. Here is a picture of a licrometer, the best instrument for measuring liner height, assuming it's properly clamped. Santa didn't have time to get me one, so I may help him out. Phil
Ive been wondering what was going on with this machine. Glad to see your back on it
Nice job Phil!
This is a great thread Phil .. your pictures and comments are are excellent & easy to understand for someone who has never had a big engine apart.
Thanks, I got it running a few days ago. Just enough snow over the hill to give it a good workout, to help break the piston rings in. Re-set the valves and fixed a leak or two after replacing the heater hoses. The operator's manual goes with it, but it's a little chewed up. Here she is. Phil
She looks pretty good, Great job Phil Tim
Looking sweet Phil! Time to sell it and buy a new project machine. :yup
Proper job Phil,did she have pallet forks on her at some time?
Thanks for the replies, yes it has the brackets for forks, and the long pin. Has anyone ever replaced the shim, or guide plate that goes inside the extendahoe tube? She's missing something, as there is almost 1/2" up and down play and the dipper jumps inside the tube at the end of it's travel. Someone said the plate was nylon, if so can one buy this material somewhere other than Case? Phil
If you know of a good machine shop they should have some or go to a material supplier and you will definitely be successful there.
Looking good Phil. Thanks for posting the progress.
Great information Phil.The photos are worth a thousand words. Where did you find the licrometer ? I am need some way to check the liner height in my Case 301B when I rebuild it this summer. I did a Google search for Licrometer and didn't find one.
Phil, That machine looks great. i hope you make a few bucks on her when your done.
The picture shows a Starrett licrometer, probably called by another name or perhaps discontinued. It's on my wish list to buy one but times are hard. Any industrial supply company will have a Starrett catalog. The Mitutoyo salesman showed me this unit, and with the clamp removed it would do the job but I would prefer a non-digital and like to see what Starrett offers first. Phil http://www.mitutoyo.com/TerminalMerchandisingGroup.aspx?group=1115
What style gear puller did you use to get the pressed on crank snout off? I put a two finger puller on the 580D crank and it won't budge. I need to make a puller that will use all 4 pulley holes and probably some heat too.
I've never have trouble getting one of these pulleys off, using 2 of the 4 pulley bolt holes. I can post a picture of the puller I use if needed. That funky nut that holds it on, comes off hard sometimes. About half the pulleys I've ever pulled off need a speedi sleeve repair. Phil
That makes sense. I was trying to pull it with that nut still on it. I was thinking it came off all as one piece. I will make a tool to hold the outer piece using two bolt holes. Then a 1/2" drive ratchet to remove the nut. Which way is it threaded? I knew something wasn't right trying to get the piece off with the puller. I was at the point of "if I tighten the puller more I am going to break something". It just didn't feel right so I stopped. EDIT: looking at the parts diagram it clearly shows the retaining nut holds the hub on. I should have looked first.
I believe it is the normal right hand thread...without checking. I use a 1/2" drive bar with a short pipe on it. Make sure you use a guaranteed one(name brand). Might have to block the flywheel, after removing the starter, to keep it from turning. Make a note of the oil seal depth in the timing housing, before removing. There is a measurement for this. Phil
I probably shouldn't post this. BE CAREFUL. To remove a crankshaft pulley bolt, You can, If you are CAREFUL, and if you have a clear space, put that good brand name 1/2" pull bar against the frame, (make SURE you put it against the correct side cause it can really do some damage if you don't), TURN OFF FUEL, GET EVERYBODY AWAY FROM FRONT OF MACHINE,and BUMP the key. This only works on right hand thread (which most are). BE CAREFUL.
The pulley retainer came off surprisingly easy. I took a 3/16" thick piece of 3" plate about 1 foot long (scrap steel) and drilled two holes in it to bolt to the pulley. I then stuck a 3 foot bar on the end of it. With the bar wedged against the floor I put the 1/2" drive SK breaker bar on the retainer. 3 tugs later it was loose. The front plate to back of the hub spacing was .605". The crank is out. I need to make a puller for the tach drive so I can remove the cam. Once the tach drive is out, does the cam just slip out the front like a Chevy? Once the cam is out I will make a piece of alum. to push or pull out the liners. Is there any known spots where I should check for block cracks? Between liners, etc. Where did you order the speedy sleeve for the hub from? Did you put one on the rear of the crank also?
Was the tach drive thread 7/8-14 or 7/8-18? I have a JIC -10 cap that I think I can make into a tach drive puller. It is 7/8-14.
The 207 tach drive thread is 7/8"-18. A 7/8"-14 nut, screwed on tight with a wrench, will only go on a few threads and will damage the thread a bit, but will serve to pull it out. I use a thread file or a needle file to repair the thread so it will take the tach cable again. Sometimes heat is needed and the last one I had out, I had to heat the boss with an oxy/act torch. A slid hammer is best if you can adapt or make one. The camshaft will come right out the front, once the tach drive gear is removed. Cam lifters will have to be held up, and, of course, put back in their original locations, on assembly. Check for block for cracks at the top, between the liners. When cracks get bad they follow down to the sealing area at the bottom of the liner. Speedi-sleeves are ordered from any bearing supply outlet. I think I left the installation flange on the last one I did, it was out of the way. The rear crankshaft sealing surface is usually okay. Phil
Searching around I found that a Dana 44 and 60 have 7/8-18 jam nuts on the tie rods. I think I have a 44 in the shed. I am going to look tomorrow. If not I think I will ebay the 7/8-18 nut. I plan on making a press type puller. If it doesn't work out I will go the slide hammer route. Either way I will post a pic once I make it.
I got the 7/8-18 nut online and it fit perfect. I welded up a little puller and it worked great. It came out easier than I expected. I will try to get a picture of the tool later and post it. It is made out of the nut, some junk bed-rail stock, and a bolt. The only thing left is to pull the liners. I need to make another tool for that. A piece of bar stock under the bottom of the liner attached to a threaded rod and a holder at the top should draw them up and out. The rebuild is going slower than I expected, but it is getting there.
I used a gear puller without the center screw part. I got some "B7" hard all thread and made a little stand to pull against. A big truck lug nut and a hard washer is the whole puller. Worked on my 207 anyway.
Nothing fancy. Just a get it done setup here.
Guess I could have specified engine sleeve puller in my description. Sorry for the confusion.
Phil you seem like a smart and handy guy. Any experience rebuilding Tramac hammers? I need some advise.
Sorry, can't help you on that one. Phil