My tractor will not start; engine will crank but will not cough. BACKGROUND Ok, I replaced both fuel filters (empty) and inside seals at the same time and put a little fuel around the outside rubber seals to help with screwing them in. Next, I went to bleed air from the system by using the hand primer pump but when I cranked the engine, to engage the cam for the hand primer pump, the tractor started right up, so I said "what the heck let it run," big mistake. I let the engine run for a couple of minutes before it started to cough so I turned off the engine. Now I decided I should follow the directions in the service manual to remove air from the fuel system. I used the hand primer pump. After 45 minutes of hand pumping, no bubbles or fuel was coming out of the air removal screw located the intake manifold. I decided to remove the fuel filters and inspect them. The secondary filter was completely empty and the primary filter was about 1/5 full. So I filled both filters with diesel fuel and screwed them back on checking the inside seals where still good. Also I added more diesel fuel to the tractor's fuel tank to help with gravity feeding. I did verify I was getting fuel to the filters by removing the fuel line banjo fitting at the intake manifold. I replaced both seals on the fuel line banjo fitting and torque to 18 foot pounds. I did start to get bubbles from the intake manifold's air removal screw than fuel while using hand primer. So I went to the next step, turned on ignition, without hitting the starter, and did the same thing with the second air removal screw which is located on the fuel injector pump, same thing, the air bubbles came followed by fuel, all the time using the primer pump. So I tighten everything and cranked the engine, once again a "no start," not even a cough. I sought professional from a diesel mechanic who said I still have air in the system and to crack open the fuel lines at the top of the injectors and bleed the air out. So I did that. Cracked open one at a time, cranked the engine for 10 seconds until the bubbles stopped coming out. I did the same for all of the other injectors with the same results. Still, the engine will not start. While doing this process I did notice fuel was not squirting out it is more like oozing out and after cranking for 10 seconds the bubbles were smaller but still coming out. After cranking on and off for an hour, I looked for fuel leaks and suspected I had one where the fuel line intake manifold banjo fitting so increased the torque to 25 foot pounds. Still the tractor will not start. THE WAY FORWARD FYI, I did locate another air removal (third one) screw on the fuel injector but the service manual doesn’t say anything about the third air removal screw. A total of three air removal screws, two on the fuel injector pump, and one on the intake manifold. Any other suggestions before I grind away at the starter?
What are you talking about, intake manifold?? Its a CAV injection pump right?? Throttle and shut-off levers on the top cover of the pump?? It has an electric shut-off solenoid on it right?? The bleed screw is by the name plate on the side of the pump..double screw..5/16" wrench.. TURN THE KEY ON..Open the small bleed, pump the hand primer till you get fuel.. or crank the engine till you get fuel.. shut the bleeder.. Follow the lines from the pump to the injectors.. THOSE are the lines you need to loosen.. NOT the ones on top of the injectors.. Crank the engine till fuel squirts out of the injector lines and tighten..
Was there an issue with the engine running that CAUSED you to replace the fuel filters? And how well do you understand this "engage the cam for the hand primer pump"? was the lever not moving when you first tried it? did it move after you cranked the engine and it shut off? and what did the lever feel like during those 45 minutes compared to now that it pumps fuel? If you don't understand how the lever and diaphragm work to pump fuel, then watch this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SLQY8ywb4TQ skip ahead to 14:00, but watch the rest when you have time.
Is your filter set-up 3 pieces?? Filter head, filter and a bottom bowl w/ a long screw going thru the center?? The oring on the filter GOES UP IN THE FILTER HEAD.. NOT ON THE FILTER. It'll fit there but its not correct.. IF you put the oring on/in the filter, it chokes off the fuel.. Don't forget to turn the key ON when bleeding the system..
I WISH I had 1 dollar for EVERY TIME I wrote that!!!! I'd NEVER have to work another day in my life.. lol
who will rebuild my injection pumps then ?
Thanks for the information. Delmer No prior issues with the fuel system. I suspected the fuel filters where older than seven years and beginning to rust on the top side so I decide to replace the fuel filters. I have no idea how many hours on them. Unfortunately I got no maintenance records when I purchased the used front end loader/backhoe. I found no rust in either filter after removal. I first tried priming the pump when the handle was in the down position had to lift up and press down on the pump’s handle. I cranked the engine until the primer pump handle rose to the upright position which I felt resistance when I pump down on the hand pump it returned to the upright position on its own. Thepumpguy Yes, the diesel 4-390 engine has CAV. Yes, the intake manifold has an air removal screw right above the fuel line banjo fitting. All fittings are in metric. I think tractor was made in 1984-86. The primary fuel filter is one piece with a drain valve at the bottom. I did remove the old inner seal which was slipped over the center hollow pipe that the filter screwed onto. I believe this is the pipe that feeds filtered fuel into the injector pump. See photo below. The second air removal screw is next to the yellow arrow, unfortunately the unknown screw (third air removal screw) is not pictured but close to where the orange arrow is pointing.
Did you loosen (half turn) the other end of the four lines at the injectors when you were trying to bleed it? The fuel squirts out around the threads so I can't tell so much that the fuel there is free of air, a good squirt means there's no air left, tighten it up and it will start. Do you get a good squirt of fuel when you pump the primer with one of the bleeders on the pump or filter loose? not just a dribble but a squirt with each pump? It should take a minute to fill a filter with a priming pump if there's no blockages etc, that's why I ask.
It sounds like you got everything covered.. Just make sure you have voltage to the solenoid on the bottom of the inj. pump. You should be able to hear it click open when applying voltage.. Fuel at the bleeder on the side by the Nplate.. If STILL no fuel AT the injectors, you have to go deeper in the pump..
UPDATE: Finally got the front end loader started. I opened a third air bleed screw (second bleed screw located on the top of the injector pump, see photo). Although the JENSALES service manual said nothing about a third bleed screw I did find several articles on the Internet about a third bleed screw. Thanks for everyone who contributed. For future use. I started bleeding air from the fuel flow system with the first air bleed screw located on fuel line intake manifold, second air bleed screw lower part of injector pump (green arrow), third bleed air screw located on top of the injector pump (red arrow). Than bleed air at the fuel injectors. CASE CLOSED.
I'm happy that your happy.. The reason you don't see anything about the top bleed screw is, its redundant.. the fitting in the middle of the top cover bleeds the air out on the VERY LOW PRESSURE side of the system..