I own a case 530 ck gasoline with a 32 loader and hoe. when I am using the hoe and have the loader set to max lift of the front tires the loader creeps up and eventually lifts off the ground. is there some way to fix this so the loader will stay where I set it as I use the hoe ? I bought this case 14 years ago for 5800.00 and have put a few thousand in it. new rad., all new hyd. lines, new pump, clutch, brakes 3 times {can't get the seal to stop the rear end fluid from leaking**, valve job, rebuilt all but one cylinder, new tires. when I first got it this gal had been worked pretty hard. the spool valves for the hoe were leaking so bad I was losing a gallon of hyd. fluid every hour of use. I took the hoe off, disassembled all the spool valves and put new rubber o rings in. this cut the leaks down to almost 0. I've put 800 + hours on it since and the hoe spools are leaking about a quart every 6 hours now. not enough to tear it apart again but time will tell. in spite of changing out the hyd. fluid I still find that the fluid gets milky after a while. I had a bad thing happen because of the water in the hyd. fluid though. I went to start it on a 15 degree day. the engine started but was really laboring. the cap on the hyd. filter exploded like a rocket and shot up in to the air about 50 feet. I was covered in fluid and very fortunate that the cover didn't blow towards my head. I don't start it if it is below 32. well enough for now, happy to talk about my case and would appreciate any help on the loader creep. dave ]
The loader on my 580c does the same thing but I have no idea why. I am sure someone else on this forum can answer this question. I wish my 207 diesel would start at 32 degrees, if I am lucky it might when it is plugged in.
Have you done a complete system flush or are you just changing the oil in the hydraulic tank ?
Whats the condition of the vent cap on the loader arm.. if equipped.. cracked, missing, plugged..?? That's a good entry point for water.
Sorry, mis-read.. thought it was a 580
My 530 does a lot of the same things your does, It's getting old dumping hyd oil in. This winter I am going to change the seals in my swing cylinders, Have you had to do that ?
I have had my swing cyls out twice. first time was to weld the rod end back to the rod when it broke off. I didn't break the cylinder down to do this. the second time was to have both cyls rebuilt at a hydro shop. I think it cost me 1200.00 but I also had them replace the rod that I had welded years before. if I wasn't handicapped and 66 years old I would have tried it myself. the one issue with rebuilding these is to remove the nut that holds the interior packing in place. the one cylinder I tried to rebuild I put the rod end in a large bench vice, had a 3/4 " drive socket, 24" breaker bar and 6' 2" id pipe on it and couldn't break the packing nut loose. I had to take it to a friends place and use a 3/4 " drive impact wrench to break the nut loose and then guess about how tight to make it to compress the seals properly. I don't know if the torque is critical. we just kept the impact on it until there was no more movement and the cylinder seems to work fine. from my point of view this case is the best engineered piece of equip. I ever owned. every time I have had to work on it it seems like the folks who designed it did so with an understanding that at some point it would need repaired or maintained and put it together so that it could be taken apart easily i.e. you didn't have to be a rocket scientist. any questions feel free, good luck. still waiting on the creep issue. maybe someone out there has an answer, seems like a common problem. dave
To do a flush properly and to eliminate ALL water in the system the hoses have to be removed from the cylinders. Milky looking fluid is never acceptable to me. If a lot of water got in the system it will cause all kinds of problems, one being a destroyed pump. Flushing is a waste of time and money if the source of the water isn't determined and eliminated. The system flush procedure has been described by several members here who have done it.
Thanks for the heads up on the swing cylinders, I overhauled my engine the winter before last and this winter is hyd leaks, this machine just keeps going and going with cylinders leaking and all. I've been working it 8 and 10 hour days all summer and now winter is coming so it's even more, gets cold here in Alaska early.
this is dave with the loader creep again. I was wondering if anyone has tried a mechanical lock for the loader or stabilizers ?
Is the loader lever going fully into the neutral position ? If it is you probably have a spool problem in the valve assembly. Both stabilizers doing the same thing ? Or they just don't hold the machine up ?
the loader lever does go to neutral. one of the interesting things about my loader is that if I shut the machine down with the loader up off the ground a few feet it will hold that position forever. not so with my stabilizers. there seem to be some acorn nuts on the loader assembly that i'm not sure of functionally. I did use one of them years ago, maybe to adjust the hyd pressure, don't remember. any idea what they do ? like I said in my first post, I put new o rings in all the valves on the hoe. that cut down on the leaking hyd. fluid but did nothing about cylinder drift. after I shut down it only takes about five minutes for the hoe boom to drop the bucket to the ground. the stabilizers will hit the ground in about a week. any ideas ? thanks a lot. dave