Hey everybody, I’ve got a Case 530 4 cylinder diesel that has a slight knock and a significant amount of blowby. Looks like the air intake tube has been off for some time and it’s been sucking dirt. Got it in the shop, pulled all the body panels off, pulled the valve cover (VERY clean looking surprisingly). Pulled the injectors and ran a small endoscope down in just to see if there was anything blaringly obvious. About to go further. Any hints, tricks, do’s/don’ts y’all know of? Probably gonna try to pull the head tomorrow
Should be a 188 I'm thinking. Some models have a bolt inside the water pump housing that holds the housing to the head. Zip tie the rockers together so you can pull the rockers/stands off together. Speaking on the rocker stands. Make note one of the bolts that hold the stands on has a hole up the middle. It needs to go back into the same hole it was found in or the rockers don't get oiled. Keep track of the head bolts. Some are longer than others. If you have to go into the bottom, the oil pump is gear drive off the crank and shimmed to mesh. Keep track of the shims and put em back. All I can think of at the moment.
Good info Scott... Especially about the oiler head bolt & length of the others.. LOTS of people don't know about that one..
A quick way to verify a dusted engine is to take a rubber tip blow gun and gradually apply air pressure to each cylinder. Start with one that's got the valves closed. The pressure will push it to bottom dead center and if your rings are shot it'll sound quite obvious as the air will go straight to the crankcase. Seeing as how the intake was off it's probably a safe bet she's dusted. You can cut open the oil filter and see if it's grinding itself to pieces as well. Take lots of notes and pics as you teardown....it's funny how something ends up taking months and as good as we all think our memory is.....wait what were we talking about? Haha
Thank you all. I’m fairly mechanically inclined but a rebuild is a new one for me. Done quite a bit of research on it already, and luckily have a fairly good manual for the tractor. I’ll probably be back on here begging for answers soon enough. It’s a good old tractor and we’ve had it for years but I’m still weighing the monitairy cost vs. attachment to the machine. Getting off my butt now to go start again
I know this may sound "silly" to some.. BUT IF you've never done one before do it>> Time the engine BEFORE you start.. THAT WAY> you can get a GOOD PICTURE of how the gears are SUPPOSED TO GO.. What dots line up with which dot.. & mark'em if you have to.. Some gears don't have dots.. some have more than 1!!!!!.. DO "YOURSELF" a huge favor & time it.. 1 MORE THING>> The injection pump>> SOME pumps time to 0* & SOME time to 8* BTDC Don't be one of "those guys" Lol that come on here & ask, when you have/had all the info in front of yourself. You remove the side cover on the injection pump, 2 flat head screws. Rotate the engine over until the 2 scribe lines meet.. 1 is stationary & one rotates. Now look thru the access hole on the bell housing.. basically, look at the flywheel thru the hole. IT WLL HAVE degree marks on it.. might need sandpaper to see them.. take that back.. YOU WILL NEED sandpaper.. Lol Its either gonna say 0* or 8*.. or there abouts.. might be off a 1/2* either way but REAL DAM CLOSE to either of them.. Have fun.
Your gonna need to MAKE a special wrench to get the bottom inside nut, of the injection pump.. Its to close to the block to get a good bite on the nut.. You can try any combination of wrenches.. my limit was 4 wrenches. LOL 1/4 turn at a time..Lol OR.. MAKE the wrench.. Just take a cheap wrench & bend it, slight bend into a "U".. you might need to grind the outside of the box end too.. it might be to thick to fit between the housing & the nut.. just grind it.. hell, you already bent it.. LOL