I recently traded for a Case 580. This is my first TLB and shes not pretty. All of the cylinders leak, its been sitting awhile, and the clutch is stuck engaged. The leaks aren't an issue I can repair those where it sits. My question is how do I free the clutch. I can ease it into gear but would much rather do it properly so I can safely drive it home. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Chuck
Welcome to HEF chase546! Stuck clutches will sometimes free up, by putting tractor into gear & with a tow vehicle, giving the machine a good 'jolt'. You will need a substantial tow vehicle for a 580. Just how far are you intending to 'drive' this thing??
We had a international that had a stuck clutch. We could put in low gear and crank it and it would start and drive. I just drove it around awhile with the bush hog going and it finally released. deisel may be harder to get started in gear though
While pulling or driving, have your foot on the clutch, or on and off.
Thanks alrman, The only thing I have to pull it is an old 89 K2500. The shop that it's at has several other Case 580's and a large Gehl skid steer. I live less than 2 miles where it sits. I would rather drive it home than haul it. on a side note, I have learned to repack my cylinders myself. 2 down 11 to go. Thanks, Chuck
Thanks for the replies. It is a diesel, we tried wedging the clutch pedal down with the rear end off the ground and in high gear and drop it and all it did was dig in. I at least would have expected it to kill the engine. Thanks, Chuck
That sounds like a good way to tear something up!
its not pretty but its officially mine. Gotta start somewhere.
Will the Xtreme pure-flo fluid be acceptable to use until I get all the leaks repaired and the system flushed out? It's the cheapest I have found around here.
Depending on the urgency to move, I'd recommend ALRs suggestion of a pull. The other option is start in neutral, raise all the hydraulic stuff and warm the engine. Stop, put in high gear and restart. If space is a problem its would be safer to load it out and work on it at your location. I have the same machine with shuttle and drove it some distance without good brakes. I won't try that again... Jess
Hi chase 546, I just bought a tractor with a stuck clutch. To free the clutch in the tractor, I pushed down on the clutch pedal and had a buddy tie the pedal in the down position. Then I pulled the starter and worked through that hole with a mirror and a flashlight. I used several cans of carb cleaner with a long straw and soaked the clutch plate down. The tractor I was working on had cut outs in the pressure plate to where you could see the clutch plate. I also made up a tool that I could slip in between the clutch plate and pry it away from the flywheel. This tractor that I was working on was at the bottom of a hill,surrounded by trees, and fifteen miles from home. You can get pretty creative if you have to. I got the clutch freed up and drove the tractor home.
I am gonna try towing like alrman suggested first. The shop the tractor's at offered to split it and free up and clean the clutch for $360. I may go that route. If not I will haul it home and try there. i don't like tearing things down offsite. Too many things disappear when others wander around. Thanks for all the info guys.
Does anyone have a good source for parts and repair manuals or diagrams for the 66-71 580's? I found 1 paper back for $159.99. I can find all kinds of information on the 580B and newer but not the 580.
Does the pedal feel right ? Sounds like there may be something broke on the fork or t/o bearing for it to be stuck that hard, 360 is not too bad for that one it is not fun to split just don't break something else and end up doing the split anyway. Good Luck
Every thing in the bell housing is in place and appears to move correctly. I ran a bore scope in the inspection plate on the left side of the bell housing. I don't know if these have pilot bushings or bearings like an automobile. If it where a car or truck i would put my money on a seized pilot bushing or bearing or as long as it has set a clutch disk rusted to the fly wheel.
Have a old GMC school bus hunting cabin for ourselves in central MO so the locals can't steal everything and destroy our cabin as they once did, it has a tendency to 'glue' the pressure disc to the flywheel with rust, only cure we could find was to go to an aggressive ceramic button clutch.
Well 1 more cylinder rebuilt and shut-off cable replaced. Gonna be trying the penning technique from the other thread to free up more cylinder glands. Started removing the brake housings. During the attempts to un-stick the clutch I found 1 brakes doesn't work at all and the other only half way works.
Finally got the pins out of my curl cylinders and got them repacked and hoses replaced. Blew the seals on the swing cylinders and found out why my brakes don't work. Contaminated bands and disks. Now to figure out how to replace those seals.
Pulled the left brake housing. Found what I expected. differential fluid on the the bands and brake linings. Also found out the right carrier assembly is on the left side. And I had 5 gallons of water in the place of 90 weight.
those pictures are so helpful! nice job!
Old iron, isn't it grand as to job security!! My old stuff eats up my time but is still cheaper than buying new/newer. I also get good practice for repairs.
Its a learning experience. I wish it would stop raining so I can get back to work on it. I'm ready to take it home and play in the mud.
Update.... Finally.. What happens when a automotive technician pulls the rear tires to do brakes? Nothing there's no brakes!!
Polishing ramps and replacing the balls and springs.
"Update.... Finally.. What happens when a automotive technician pulls the rear tires to do brakes?" Thats funny! I worked as a mechanic at a GM dealer for about 20 years before switching careers a few years ago. When I purchased my 580C, the PO told me it needed some brake work and I remember wondering if I'd need a engine crane to get the brake drums off! I crawled around under it and hmm... no brake drums, this should be interesting. I plan to do mine when I have some down time this spring after the snow is gone and its too muddy to move around on the property. How do they work? it looks like the band stops the drum and if the carrier is still rotating it causes the balls to ride up the ramps pushing the disc into the rotor? Keeps those pics coming!
That puzzled me as well, at first. I looked at the schematics and couldn't wrap my head around it. I saw bands and 2 disks. Not until I pulled it a part did it kick in. I've worked on drum brakes, air brakes, disk brakes, band brakes and even Yanmar brakes. And this was nothing like it. I am no means an expert at this but here is my theory on the 580 brake operation. On each side of the differential (not in the rear end) you have 2 stub shafts out of each side of the tractor. These shafts are what would be the equivalent to axle shafts in a car. The differential pinions turn the gears on these shafts. These shafts pass thru the the carrier plates (inner brake housing) and the brake drum/disk assembly splines to these shafts. The drum/disk assembly consists of 1 half an inner plate with 1 dish riveted to 1 side and the other side has 4 ramped pockets, the other half id the drum with a disk riveted to 1 side and 4 ramped pockets. These 2 haves are held together with 2 springs with 4 large steel ball bearing in each pocket. This assembly splines on the stubs shafts. then you have the outer brake housing. The outer brake housing has 2 bands (think brakes shoes turned inside out) These bands are anchored with a removable pin on 1 end and springs on the other. These bands are applied by pulling a brake rod that has linkages pined to the end of each band. When applied the bands apply pressure the the drum which is held while the inner plate continues to rotate. As it rotates the balls force the plates apart as they ramp up. As the 2 haves separate the disks on each side apply pressure on the carrier plate and the outer brake housing. Think of a disk brake setup in reverse. The rotor is stationary and the pads rotate. I am sure one of the experts here can better explain. I hope I didn't confuse you more than help. I will keep posting as I continue my journey.
Yeah, maybe. LOL Good luck with that Case, you'll need it. Watch your knuckles.
Hi chase, the brakes on my Allis farm tractors are like these, they could not get enough stopping power mechanically so added the advantage of leverage, the band only slows the free runner drum so the balls can ramp in and compress the brake discs. Seems simple enough but at that they will glaze pretty easily and stopping power will degrade pretty fast as they age. Older two ton trucks and some earlier car parking/emergency brakes used the reversed band style brake lining too. Looks like good work so far, you will do fine with the old girl keeping her at the top of the game.