hi, i just buy an old 1990 case 580 k phase one the one with the shifter tru the floor and i have few problem with it my biggest concern for now it have no brake the farmer used to run it like that for year but i want to get on the rode with it so my big question is were i should start and do a brak job on this unit requied the transaxel dismonting ? thanks for your help sorry for my bad english i am a french canadien
Brakes When you lean the front hood the section between the dash and hood will pop up, you add the fuel, brake oil, hyd fluid in this area. Make sure the fluid is full for the brake system. The adjustment for the brakes is above the slave cylinders on each side, remove the cone boot on top of the slave cylinder, you will find a threaded rod in the center that has two nuts, the top nut is the jam nut and the lower is the adjustment nut, loosen the two nuts, tighten the lower nut, With the rear wheels off the ground tighten the lower nut until you start feeling drag on that wheel, stop adjusting and back the nut off two turns and lock the lock nut. The other way is to tighten the nut to 50 inch pound, back the nut off then 4 3/4 turns and lock the jamb nut. the brake pedal when correct should be about 3 3/4 inches off the floor when pushed down measuring from the front edge of pedal to the floor. The system uses THC oil in the brake system, Do not use dot fluid. Your brake discs and plates are more than likely worn, just due to the machine age and I would check the trans oil dipstick in the floor, the trans/rear end holds 5 gal of wet brake gear lube. You may not be able to get the brakes to equal out if the lining are worn/metal to metal with the discs or have no adjustment left. Fill the holding tank, check for pedal, bleed the brake if needed, adjust brake, pedal holds ok, pedal drops=internal slave cylinder leaking or bad master cylinder. More later if needed. The parts are $$$$ if you need to replace disc/plates and kits.
thanks sheepfoot if i need to change the brake disk i just need to get the small cover on the side off ?
I have taken off the covers with the rear wheels on, but it is sure a lot better with the wheels off. Don't forget to first drain the trans. I have found the three springs in the brake assembly aren't to be relied on, they are inexpensive and should be changed regularly (I do it when I change trans fluid). I feel one of these being broken will lead to faster wear of brakes. At five each per side at around $90 each, this is not small change. That play in that axle shaft (after you take all the brakes off) is another topic about the ring gear in the diff.
You can remove both covers on the machine with out to much work, right side remove the diff lock first then the plate. Drain the lube first, min 5 gal bucket and a spare bucket. I would remove the rear cover on the transaxle also and try to get as much of the old lube out. You will have a lot of fine crap so it's best to drive it to get it warm or pick it up on the outriggers and let it run in 4th for a while. If it's 4x4 un shift the front wheels. Go forward for a while then reverse. When it gets warm drain it. Make sure you use a good grade lube with the wet brake additive, the case lube is good stuff and made for it.
thanks for all the info, i can t wait to get it here and start working on it one more question the shuttle reverser is shot the machine move only in reverse so i suspect the foward clutch to be dead but the ex onwer told me when it stop move foward he fluch the shuttle fluid and he found coolant how oolant can get to the reverser fluid from wath i see the oil cooler won t go tru coolant so how coolant can get there dumb guy poor colant in reverser filler hole ?