History as I know it. 1990 case 580 K extendahoe I got it in March of this year. 6158 hours on the meter. Fuel Filters marked 4-23-12 5974 hours 1k hr pm No other info when I bought it. 6160 hours serviced everything except transaxle and torque converter, but they were checked and at the proper level. Used it 5 hours and today we drained and refilled the transaxle with the correct Case fluid(I forget the name, but I paid dearly for it). And we also drained and refilled the torque converter with the Hytran. I called a dealer and confirmed we used the proper fluids based on my serial number. Both fluids at proper levels. And then the issue started. In neutral the hoe pulls forward, and in forward it drives normal. But when you put it in reverse it will go backward but is acting like it is pulling against the park brake. Which it is not. Its been normal until the fluid change today. It acts like the torque converter is stuck in forward even in reverse, which it can't be can it? Did the fluid change make a solenoid stick in the converter? Did it break something loose that is making something slip? Anyone seen anything like this before? Any suggestions? I didn't today but I can pull the floor panel and watch the driveline while messing with it?
If it is the Borg Warner shuttle that is a classic description of the forward clutch Bellville spring breaking up and binding the forward clutch causing it not to release and driving in neutral. That has never been a problem with the later transmissions with the internal shuttle so I am betting you have the early setup with the reverser on the bell housing and the older 4 speed as you are describing the exact symptoms as many others here over many years. The older shuttle setup will have the shuttle dipstick right above the starter, the later under the floor just ahead of the control tower under a metal pop out cover.
Yes dipstick above the starter. What am I pulling to fix it?
Does this typically fail with a fluid change? Was it already failed but just slipping badly with old fluid and I didn't feel it? Totally unrelated to fluid change just a coincidence?
Do you have or need the service manual ?
No, I do not have a service manual. Yes I need one, where is the best place to get one?
Thanks to the good people at Minn Parr Parts, here ya go Red ------> https://minnpar.com/manuals5.aspx?F...) 580 SERIES PARTS MANUALS&SSSFName=CASE 580K
Be assured that changing the oil had nothing to do with it, entirely coincidental. The unit is not hard to remove and repair, you will need a service manual as others have stated. when you get further into it let us know and we will give you specific things that must be done. You should also try to flush the oil cooler to remove any trash that could be in there. Case recommends a new cooler but that seldom happens. the two hoses that go front off the RH front of the shuttle are cooler lines.
Just an update. Yesterday morning I had to move it into a position to work on it. It acted entirely fine. My mechanic buddy pulled the pan off the bottom of the shuttle and cleaned the screen. I should have taken a picture but there was some metal flakes in it. He reassembled it then traced down why the D-clutch doesn't work. It was just a fuse. I have to get the manual printed out so we can figure out why the fuse popped.
Thanks for the info
I'm assuming this is a two wheel drive model? If so it is not uncommon for the forward clutch to drag a bit when cold. Also keep in mind that they're is only two revers clutch disks so not a good idea to work it hard in revers. With that many hours on it I would do the shuttle anyway, they're cheap and straight forward to freshen up.
The torque convertor is the fluid drive component and doesn't select forward or reverse. That is done in the shuttle transmission. It shouldn't That is always possible. Sometimes a snap ring will bear the the bevel washer in a clutch pack. More times than I can even recall. There is a possibility that your linkage is just too loose and the selection of forward/neutral/ reverse just isn't quite right. There is only so much travel distance for all 3 selections. Its not unusual to find a few flakes. The amount of material and the type is the most important thing to look at. More than likely a wire short .
yes 2 wheel drive I'm back on this. My buddy was using it and it came back with only reverse. Because it had been acting up when warm, I tested it the next day and no forward gears. I downloaded the repair manual, but it seems confusing to find stuff in it. Is there a basic kit to rebuild the power shuttle or do you usually have to take it apart first and go from there? It seems like a common failure, so hoping for advice on how to proceed on the rebuild.
Again I'm assuming it has a borg-warner shuttle. The last one I did got a kit (clutch plates, springs, O rings, and gaskets) from case dealer and it wasn't that bad $300 or a bit over. If you want to pinch pennies validrive marine transmissions (some models) use the same parts that can be had at lower cost but if the repair manual is confusing you then I would not advise you take that route. I'm also assuming that you checked your shift linkage is in order. And yes I would pull it down before ordering a kit, you could have a cracked piston or any number of things wrong not just warn disks, broken springs, and leaky seals.
Shuttle oil fill above the starter so Borg-Warner right? I downloaded the repair manual and was in a hurry trying to find something about the power shuttle. I guess printing it out would probably help a bunch. Shift linkage is all in order. Just a guess, but how long of a project is it to pull the shuttle out? I know it varies on skill level, tools, equipment, set-up etc. My buddy that broke it is a full time mechanic at a mine and I do quite a bit of mechanical stuff. I should have all the tools to do it or anything special I need? Going to be doing it outside since the hoe won't really fit in my shop.
Hard to say how long, I could do one in 3 or 4 hours. As far as tools, a thin (very thin if I remember right) wall 12 point 3/8". You don't even need a jack they are not that heavy but a couple of mounting bolts with heads cut off make slipping it back in easy.
Last week we went through the diagnosis stage and the pump pressure was to low. So I ordered one with the rebuild kit. Today we got into it. It was going fine until I got to the clutch spring and piston. They were trashed and one of the friction disks had no material at all on it. We got the cooler pulled and it started to rain. So tomorrow I need to drop the cooler off at the radiator shop to get it cleaned out. And I need to order a few more parts. So just a couple pictures of the damage.
So I ordered the rest of the hard parts, piston, cylinder, hub. Power shuttle is reassembled. Cooler was sent out and cleaned at the radiator shop. So does everyone just drain and reuse the torque converter or replace it? We are leaning toward repace but it is another $500ish.
Replace the Torque Converter everything else is %100.
I've done both; if failure is very bad such as exploding disc and piston hub assembly I'd change torque converter. But with normal spring failure I wouldn't change it out.
Torque Converter is on order. Hope to get it by next week so this thing can go back together and get sold.
This machine just keeps on giving. I got the torque converter on and used a mag base dial indicator to center it. It's within 10 thousandths. Then I pressure washed the bell housing. And found 2 cracks in it. Right through the bolt holes of course. I had no luck finding one anywhere online, either new or used. So there is a guy with a 580D with a bad motor nearby. I could get the bell housing reasonable but of course the D was only made from 1980 to 1984 and is a totally different piece. So plan B is taking it to get welded. I'm dropping it off in the morning. And a couple of pics.
I have to wonder how long it would have hung in there as is. I would suspect that overtightening the bolts could cause that.
FWIW, According to this offer a search for multiple machines in salvage yards should find a bell housing. If you have a 580K Phase 1. Hagan has one. Apparently the housing has two different part numbers ??? http://hagantractorparts.com/transmissionparts.html
Project is done, reassembled, driven and works good. Finally. A big thanks to all who replied, especially whoever linked the repair manual. We did this step but my buddy cut them just about too short. One we got out easily and the other I had to cut a notch in it with a die grinder cut off wheel to use a screwdriver on it. While it was in there, we didn't want to pull the power shuttle back out. I had thought of putting the slot in it first then forgot to do it. I forgot to take pictures of the bell house repairs, but it looked pretty good.