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Case 580 SE – tried 2 rebuilt shuttles/torque converters and still won’t move

harmetp · 2021-01-24 21:40

The shuttle in my 580SE got very weak so I bought a rebuilt shuttle and it came with a rebuilt torque converter. I did the swap per the service manual (shuttle slid into place nicely) and after filling with fluid the output shaft would turn, but shifting would make no difference. I could hold the output yoke from turning and shifting made no difference. I cracked the cooler lines and there is no pressure on the out to cooler line (nothing at the return). After talking with the rebuilder, they sent me a another shuttle and TC. They seemed to think that the pump wasn't engaged from the TC but wanted to try another shuttle. I've now installed the 2nd shuttle and TC with about the same result (the output shaft spins faster - freewheeling). No flow out of the oil cooler line. Shifting makes no difference. On the 2nd install I made sure the TC and shuttle fit together ok before installing them. They seem to fit ok. I used guide pins to install the shuttle and turned the TC until the shuttle bottomed out on the bell housing. I'm having trouble thinking the rebuilder messed up 2 shuttles, but I don't see a huge mistake on my side - everything went together nice. I didn't even rebuild the shuttle myself. Any ideas? I'm getting tired of swapping heavy shuttles. Thanks

Replies13
  1. #1Shimmy12021-01-24 22:35

    Where did you get the rebuilds from?

  2. #2Vetech632021-01-25 03:31

    You need to run a pressure test at the forward and reverse test ports. You also need to make sure your declutch isn’t engaged and dumping your pressure.

  3. #3harmetp2021-01-25 11:11

    Thanks, rebuilds are from Schaefer enterprises in wolf lake IL (not their first rodeo - they said). They didn't install the electric declutch solenoid and it appears as though the declutch button is out (not pushed in) There is no pressure coming out of the cooling line port and Schaefer's guy thinks the pump isn't engaged. I checked the torque converter pump drive and my old and the new TC are the same height (measuring from the flexplate mount to the top of the drive coupling. Schaefer's said I should assemble the shuttle to the bellhousing, then install the torque converter to the shuttle, then install the assembly to the engine and bolt the flex plate to the flywheel. However, I have no holes in the bellhousing to give me access to the flywheel/flexplate bolts. Is there something I'm missing? I appreciate the advice. I really thought the most difficult part of this project was paying for the shuttle.

  4. #4Tinkerer2021-01-25 11:32

    The shuttle has to be removed. Then the bellhousing. That will then give access to the flex-plate bolts. Did you forget to bolt the torque convertor & flex-plate assembly to the flywheel when you replaced the torque convertor ? Did you follow the flex-plate alignment procedure ? It is very important to do.

  5. #5harmetp2021-01-25 11:39

    Yep, I did everything in the manual: 1. bolt flexplate to torque converter (center it) 6 bolts 2. bolt flexplate/TC assy to flywheel 6 bolts 3. bolt bell housing to engine bellhousing 3. install shuttle using 2 cut off bolts to act as guide pins I had to turn the torque converter some to allow the shuttle to seat against the bellhousing, but it seated.

  6. #6harmetp2021-01-25 11:42

    Schaefer's suggested somehow I bolt the bellhousing to the shuttle first then install the TC/flexplate assembly on the shuttle to make sure the pump drive is fully engaged. However, there is no way to bolt the flexplate the flywheel - no hole in the bellhousing

  7. #7alrman2021-01-25 14:14

    Are you running this shuttle without the declutch solenoid attached? If so, it won't drive.

  8. #8harmetp2021-01-25 14:37

    Thanks, I was told I do not need the solenoid and that the solenoid pushes the "button" in to put it neutral. Without the solenoid the button is in the "out" position which should be on. Am I wrong about this?

  9. #9580bob2021-01-25 15:48

    very wrong who told you this the trans is in neutral your fault not dealer u need solenoid on there out is neutral in is drive i would let dealer know you made a mistake they were good enough to send other one so when they go to check the one you sent back there is nothing wrong also make sure you are full of oil in it fill it start it run in reverse with tires in rear air add oil till it reads full use only hytrans for best life

  10. #10harmetp2021-01-25 16:08

    The dealer told me in is neutral and that I didn't need the solenoid. Not trying to blame, it's just what they said. I just tested it and you are correct. Pushing the neutral button in made it work.

  11. #11Vetech632021-01-25 17:24

    Did I miss the part where you were trying to operate it without the solenoid?

  12. #12harmetp2021-01-25 18:20

    Yes, I assumed it wasn't problem since the rebuilder told me it was unnecessary. He stopped putting them on rebuilt shuttles because of price and assumed they could be left off. All his buyers must have known better and installed their old solenoid (like I am going to do) I appreciate all the help. It was really satisfying to have it running, shift it into reverse then press the button and watch the shaft actually reverse.

  13. #13Tinkerer2021-01-25 22:25

    I wonder how many people he screwed over giving out that kind of terrible information. How many hours of misery did he cause you ? That includes all the time you spent just thinking about what you were doing wrong !