I'm trying to prepare ahead of time for removal of the transaxlel to fix a leaky brake problem. The leak is internal and I have narrowed it down to the left side. I don't know yet if I'll remove the transaxle completely or just lower it and remove the left axle housing. I'll be working alone and outside. Does anyone know about how much weight I'll be dealing with, both for the transaxle and for the individual axle housing assembly? Also, any tips would be appreciated.
The tranny is heavy about 1500lbs or so. You need a good transmission jack to handle it. If you don't have one you might be able to rent one at a rental store.
I was going to use a regular automotive floor jack to lower it; wouldn't that work?
If you have a big base and can put a chain around the tranny and attach it to the jack or plate so it won't tip either way. If you plan on just lowering the tranny just enough to remove axles it might work just be careful and put a jack stand under the other axle.
I'd go a bit heavier on the transaxle weight, I use a transmission jack rated at 900kg & it wants to spread it's legs while holding it. When I lift it with the crane on my truck, it really knows it's working. I would guess the transaxle is close to 1 ton. The individual axle assemblies alone would easily be 120 - 150kg. I have used forklifts with fork extensions many times to do this job - maybe worth considering if you have one available. Personally, I wouldn't use a regular automotive jack - simply not stable enough - especially when you are trying to guess the centre of transaxle. They are very front heavy. Plus, the standard jack wont lift high enough & lower enough to roll the transaxle out from under the raised machine.
Thanks. Since I am working on gravel and have no forklift I'm starting to think of having the work done elsewhere. Maneuvering a 300 lb axle under the backhoe may be a bit of a challenge, especially when replacing it.
Ah, gravel & jacks don't work well together. Reminds me of a story..... Many years ago I had to replace a crownwheel & pinion on a 580B - which involves splitting the tractor in half. I did the job onsite - on dirt - for an old Polish farmer with limited english & funds. Anyhow, I split the tractor on the dirt & dismantled the transaxle on site & took the crownwheel & carrier away to aquire parts etc & also as they needed to be riveted together. I said a few times to this old fella, how it would be difficult to push the tractor back together & that this type of job is best done in a workshop situation & at least on concrete. Well I returned a week or so later, to put the machine back together & blow me down - the split tractor was sitting on a slab of concrete! - how he did it, I don't know - but just goes to show that you can do anything if you put your mind to it.
I wouldn't have been directly on gravel-I would have used some 1 1/8 plywood as a base. I could pour a concrete base, but that would require some dirt work, and that would require my backhoe. Actually I've got the leaking side brake line blocked off, so I could use the machine with just the right brake working. At low speeds I think that might work!
I swapped one earlier in the year, it wasn't too bad in the shop. I wouldn't dare mess with it in gravel and probably not on plywood. Took a trans jack chained under the pumpkin and a floor jack on the yoke lowering both to keep it even, raised the machine with the outriggers and stuck some jack stands under the back and slid the axle out the side.
Thanks. I'm thinking of pouring a 6' X 6' X 4" pad of concrete to work on. Friend offered me his shop to work in but backhoe won't fit under door frame.
My door frame is too low also. I have a 10 foot ceiling. When I back into my shop I have to lay the boom out because it is tooo high in the upright position. I swing it off to the side as I slowly back in. Once I'm in I raise it up. Maybe do that and let some air out of the tires to get the tractor into his shop.
oops ! double posted.
The cab itself is too high.
What a shame ! What is the opening height ? Just curious. My door is a 9'H x 10'W. Your 580SK is 8' 9" high with fully inflated tires.
I don't remember the height but when I measured it was way too low; maybe 8'.
How much should one expect to pay to have the transaxle removed and the brakes repaired? Ballpark?
Depending on what parts are needed to do the repair & paying top workshop rates anywhere between $3.5k ?(AU) for simply resealing brake pistons to $5k (AU) for new pistons, backing plates & discs..... ballpark.....
I had been told in the past, about US$4,000.00 to tops, $5,000.00 by my mechanic friend. I was just quoted by US$10,600.00 by a CASE dealer! Anyone else been quoted or paid such a high price?
Sorry, the png didn't save correctly. Here is the estimate as a pdf...
I just had the transaxle out of my 580K. Did most of it by myself and had never worked on a backhoe before. It was a big job but for $5000 I'd like to do it all the time. I had it on a concrete floor, raised it up with the outriggers and blocked it up. Disconnect all lines and linkages. Buy four 2' pieces of 5/8" all thread rod. Replace the bolts one at a time with the all thread. Put 3 hydraulic jacks under the transaxle, one on each axle and one under the front of transaxle. It's slow without help but you can let each jack down a few inches at a time and using the all thread to follow it down. I had two low profile plates with casters on them like you use to move a vehicle with to set it on then rolled it out from under the backhoe. The rest is easy if you have or can borrow an engine lift. Be carel
Be careful, everything is heavy.
@cmrsf1 That quote is laughable! They are quoting new master cylinders, the reservoir for brake oil, brake lines, both oversize & standard brake pistons. They wouldn't use half the stuff they have priced & some of it will no longer be available. These guys may not have even overhauled one of these 'ol girls before
Hey, Hamstring, that is so helpful! I have a mobile mechanic friend who says he's done these in 12 hours. I'll be his helper. Good tip on using the all thread. And Alrman, I think the list is overpriced so will shop it around. I replaced the master cylinder and reservoir, will have my mechanic advise. Next trick is to get a concrete slab to work on. Thank you both for your help!