Hi, I just purchased a 1993 Case 580SK turbo. The emergency brake doesn't work. I've been all over the net trying to find out more info on how to repair this and have come up with very little. I see that there is a parking brake housing on the transaxle box. If I were to remove that cover, is it filled with oil? Don't want to take a bath! Also, is there an easy way to trouble shoot what the problem is on this brake. The guy I bought the hoe from says it never worked for him - he just adapted by setting the bucket and stabilizers whenever he parked it. I live on top of a hill, all our driveways are steep and I would feel better having it work. I've ordered the service manual for this machine but it hasn't arrived, yet. If I take off the access plate in the floor of the cab, will I be able to see the cable? As for the hydraulic and transmission oil, the local oil supply company sold me Chevron 1000 THF for both applications. The salesman showed me in their book where Chevron 1000 THF cross references to Case's TCH fluid. The previous owner tells me he used #46 hydraulic fluid. I read the specs from Chevron on this product and it says Chevron 1000 THF is a high quality, multifunctional tractor hydraulic fluid, specially formulated for use in transmissions, final drives, wet brakes, and hydraulic systems of tractors and other equipment employing a common fluid reservoir. Before changing everything out, just want to know if others here have any experience in using this product? Here's a link to the full sheet on Chevron 1000: https://cglapps.chevron.com/msdspds/PDSDetailPage.aspx?docDataId=77320&docFormat=PDF Being as this is my first backhoe, I'm a bit nervous about screwing up the works. Want to change out all fluids and filters, log the dates and hours of the changes... Thanks!
Welcome to HEF cmrsf1! It is very important to repair the operation of the park brake. Apart from the safety issues - it is destroying your transmission. When the linings are worn away the metal disc grinds away the cast iron actuator, putting iron filings into your oil. :yup You need to drain the oil from the transmission to carry out the repair. While the oil is out remove the suction hose & clean out the screen - this will indicate any level of contamination. The diagram shows a 2wd version. If yours is 4wd, the small transfer casing is in place of the cover. If it is 4wd check the fingers for the selector fork- they will likely be worn & need replacement. Clean & dry all mating surfaces thoroughly & assemble using Loctite 515. Regarding your oil - you need to use a transmission oil designed for wet brake operation. TCH or an equivalent is not to be used. Personally I always use Case Hytrans with the brake additive - available from CNH. :drinkup
Wow... I wasn't expecting this! The brakes seem to work fine, just can't set the parking brake. How does that destroy the transmission? Are you saying I need to make the repair if I find iron filings in the transmission oil? If I don't find filings, should I just leave as is? Do I drop the transmission or can it be repaired in place? I've already purchased the Chevron 1000 for changing out the transmission fluid, as I am told this will work as a transmission fluid and hydraulic fluid. Did you read the data sheet on this product? For someone new to owning a backhoe, this is very confusing... Thanks for your help!
The most probable reason why the park brake is not working or be adjusted? - would be that the linings have worn away. Iron filings in oil makes grinding paste & will abnormally wear the components in the transmission. The filings accumulate in areas where there is no flushing action/movement of oil. The park brake can be fully serviced with the transaxle still mounted to the machine. Re - your oil, I'm no expert, I just made a suggestion with what I use in that application. - Is there a big price difference between Chevron & CNH? I imagine there would be some. But if the wrong oil is used in those transmissions, I have heard those brakes make some awful noises when they are applied.
I just did this on a 580 case sk like yours. here is the best price I found on actuator assembly. this should save you a little bit. http://www.ebay.com/itm/131485326742?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT the discs I had to get from case and they werent cheap. All total I think i spent close to $500 for this repair. that dosent include the 3-4 buckets of oil to refil the transaxle. If you do drain transaxle make sure you take off the torque converter pump supply tube and remove the intake screen and clean it as long as you have the oil dropped. also good time to reseal the rear cover that typically leaks fron the factory sealant turning to mush. Also I bought this and it was worth every penny! not to mention a way better price than the $480 dollars case wanted for a manual! http://www.ebay.com/itm/CASE-580-SU...P-MANUAL-CD-/251448277215?hash=item3a8b7c38df
Thanks airman and workshoprat92 for your responses. Somehow, I missed the notifications amongst all the junk e-mail I get. Wish I had seen them before I changed out the transaxle fluid because I missed cleaning out the screen and re-sealing the back plate, tho it has very minimal signs of leakage. I finally found where the parking brake goes in to the housing. I'm thinking it's adjusted all the way, tho I am going to try taking the tension off and see if I can get the last couple of threads. Am I correct in my thinking that this has already been adjusted all the way out? Here's a link to the photo: http://inter-connections.com/casey/20150926_163336.jpg So, I can take that housing off to replace the actuator disks without having to drain the transaxle again? Wouldn't be the end of the world, the fluid cost me about $120. We looked at the oil and it didn't appear to have much in the way of iron filings. Other than this parking brake deal, it's a very nice machine... and I appreciate your help!
Thanks! I already bought the cd and if I do end up re-placing the actuators, which it's sounding like I will, the ebay link will come in really handy....
Just re-read this and see that I do need to drain the system, again... wish I had better understood what you were telling me in the first place - my fault, not yours!
I would say if your already udjusted all the way tot he end as far as it will go then your disks and actuator probably look like the picture posted by alrman. Most likely caused by somone running around with the parking break applied. Ours was so bad even all the steel balls had fallen out of the actuator. Its not that hard to open up and see what you got. would be well worth your time just to know.
So, the ebay link you posted for the actuators is all I will need and I re-use the rest of the parts shown in the diagram? Or, I guess I'll find out as I get into it. Having that emergency brake working would be a really good thing! My understanding is that these also protect the actual brakes by being the first in line for braking? Thanks!
If your actuator is worn to oblivion so will be the two friction disks and the steel disks. in the parts diagram posted by arlman they are #3 and #2. you will need two of each in addition to the actuator. The actuator was the only part I could find aftermarket on a bargain. I hate to say but the 4 discs your going to have to go to case to get. Price the actuator at case and you can see what a savings the aftermarket part is. the steel backing plate is part# A178856 and I paid $66.82. The friction disks are part #1341170C1 and I paid 50.96. That was in July 2015 so all pricing should be the same. I tried as hard as possible to find cheaper aftermarket discs but in the end case was the best price or about the same by the time you had to pay shipping from somewhere else. I know a little over $400 is a bunch of money for a park brake fix. Unfortunately nothing on the case is cheap and much of it like bearings and seals they make just different enough you have to go to them for parts. That's about the only bitch I have about case backhoes. the parts cost are to high and the dealers don't stock much. anytime this machine breaks its out of service for at least a week and a half. Other than that its the best backhoe on the market in my opinion and as such you pay for it LOL.
Oh and something else the parking break does NOT apply with the break pedal. It only applies with the hand lever. that is why it is very important to make sure the break is released before moving machine or you just drag it and wear the snot out of it.
I'm guessing I will also need to replace the parking brake cable? So, let me see if I understand this correctly. The parking brake sets the actuator to keep the machine from rolling. When the parking brake cable is adjusted all the way and I can move freely and don't hear any screeching noises, chances are, the actuator has been worn out, even to the point where they no longer do anything? If left as is, what would happen? Winter's on the way, guess I had better get going on this! The internet is great. Where else would I be able to find help from 2 people who have actually done what I need to do and share their knowledge so freely and in such great detail?
If I were you I would stay with HY TRAN ULTRA, A gentleman on another forum used a oil that was advertised to meet the Case spec and the replacement oil loosened EVERY bonded lining in the PTO, Brake, Diff lock clutches and Power Shift clutches. IIRC he said it was around 13000.00 to repair all the failed plates because the oil attacked the bonding on the plates. When we old timers on here make specific recommendations there are reasons, None of us get kickbacks from Case, JD or what have you. Our experiences have taught us some stuff.
Yes, I'm sure! As I've said, I'm a newbie and that often means repeating the mistakes you all have learned from over the years. My buddy who is my "go-to" guy has at least 40 years experience but I'm thinking he's already forgotten more than I will ever know... Our local company where most folks buy their fluids is a Chevron dealer. He showed me in the book where it cross references to their product. Seeing as how I will have to drain out the new stuff to make this repair, I will consider going back to the HY Tran Ultra. Thanks!
On the cable we used the old cable. Refresh the brake parts first and if they are extremely worn when you open it up you will probably find that the cable is ok. All the other parts are worn well beyond the range of the cable to do anything. Once you see the actuator you will understand why. Its kinda hard to explain but its two half's that have a grove the balls run in. when twisted in opposite directions the balls ramp up on the casting groves and push the actuator faces away from one another. if the plates are worn beyond what the actuator can grab nothing will happen. Nothing as in you just wont have a parking brake if left alone and thats the worst of it. Clear as mud? LOL I guarantee once you open it up it will all become obvious. Its not that bad of a job really. On the oil we used a local company called Dennis oil and got what they recommended. so far no problems. I dont like the sound of the bonding coming apart and I think id follow that advice. To sum it up we probably just got lucky.
Now that I know I have this problem, I want it fixed. Just found out I have a Case mechanic just moved into the hood. Think I will get him to do the repair. Could probably do it but don't want to put it back together and find it doesn't work! Everyone I've talked to about using the Chevron 1000 has told me to go for it, have to think on that one a bit more. Have to go an hour each way to get the Case product. Thanks for hanging in there with me. I appreciate it.
Hello, I found this thread while searching for answers regarding the parking brake on our Case 580 SK 4x4. We bought it a few years ago but have been struggling with a leak from the hydraulic tank ( welded it shut this summer ) so we havent really been paying too much attention to the parking brake. The parking brake doesnt really work at all. I'm wondering if its possible to adjust/tighten the cable (if you can see from the pictures) or if its time to order those discs and the actuator? I guess I would be opening up the parking brake case before I order the parts, but thought I might try tightening it first.
Welcome to HEF @NorwegianFarmerSon The adjustment screw shown in pic #2 is getting near the end of it's tether. By all means, give it a go - but please check the transmission filter for any metal glitter, as that will indicate whether the disc has worn down to steel.
Thanks @alrman ! This forum is great, it really is priceless to be able to browse different threads and ask questions. The snow is gone here in Norway and it is time to get the backhoe digging. I have not been able to tighten the cable via the adjustment screw. The parking brake does not work at all. The machine also moves slowly in all gears. Question 1: Can this symptom (slow moving machine) be connected to low fluid level and/or contaminated transmission fluid? I took an oil sample from the transmission filter, like you suggested - Picture attached. Contamined with black and metal glitter objects, both magnetic. Pictures attached. So I am ordering those parking brake parts, a transmission filter and some (lots) Case HYTRAN ULTRA (or John Deere Hygard...) Draining, cleaning the suction screen and replacing the filter seems like an okay job. I saw it in the operators manual it's to be done every 1000 hours. EDIT: After re-reading the thread and also after observing the rear cover having minor leaks - I should reseal that as well. I do have some other questions as well: 2) What about the transmission fluid in the Torque converter? Should it be flushed or drained? 3) Should anything else be flushed or will the filter do the job of removing the foreign objects in areas I dont reach during the brake job? 4) Anything else not mentioned in this thread that I should be aware of when replacing the parking brake parts and carrying out this work? Another thing I noticed... 5) I attached a picture of the 4wd case - does the rod entering the case (which I assume must be the mechanical part that engages the 4WD - transfering power to the front axle) seem mounted at the correct angle? I was unsuccessfull engaging the 4wd. Maybe this has something to do with the worn out selector fork that @alrman mentioned earlier. I am in the process of acquiring a repair manual - which I guess may answer some of these questions - but experiences would be nice as well. Until next time, U
Hello, Is it possible to replace the parking brake cable on a Case 580k without disassembling the other parts of the brake? Like removing the cover etc.. I have this type of brake system:
Welcome to HEF @Case580k Yes you can, lift the rubber boot on the cable at the transmission housing - you will see a locknut (19mm) loosen it & use a 10mm on the machined flats on the cable end to unscrew the threaded end of the cable from the internal brake actuator.
Hello, Correct as @alrman explained. It was stuck on there pretty tight when I disassembled mine, but it will give in I attached some pictures that show some of the work I did and most importantly it shows how the threaded end of the cable and brake actuator goes together.
A few more pictures showing the wear on the fingers of the four wheel drive shift mechanism and brake wear.
The brake parts were definitely ready for replacement!
Thank you. I removed the cable fairly easily. The inner part of it was stuck. I cleaned it and rotated with a cordless screwdriver so the rust came out. I didn't replace it as it moves now smoothly.
Hi, Sorry for this question here but it is still 580k related. What would you do with cracks on the swing tower? Especially at the handle of the boom cylinder, I have one small crack on it but can't be sure how deep it is. Welding is not recommended but getting a new or a used in good shape is almost impossible here.
But Case specified Case TCH fluid for this application. Lately I can't buy Case TCH fluid, my dealer says use Hytran. I once used substitute fluid labeled as equivalent. Come hard on the brakes down a steep hill, it made a noise like grinding gears.
I don't think a weld will be successful. A friend had a Case 13 ton excavator. He tried many times to weld ductile. It'd hold only a short time.
FWIW, there was a discussion for successfully welding that boom on another forum by professional welders. http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1677 I have been a member on that forum for many years.
I didn't read all three pages. The procedure being suggested sounds much like one for cast iron. They are suggesting nickel rods, Others have recommended higher numbered stainless rods. I'd try Hastelloy, or another TIG filler I'll have to look up. You need a gap between the faces, I'd open it up into two pieces following the crack if you can. Cut away enough to leave a 1/4" open root, Something very thick is tricky, you want access to the very root, but a 37 degree angle on each piece leaves you with a lot to fill. I would use TIG, maybe even AC to "cook" as much of the junk out as possible. The process, after a big preheat, is to puddle in the middle of a surface & get a bond with the dirty ductile. Work your puddle outward as you go until the whole surface is coated. I'd go a bit beyond the whole surface of the break, running onto the surrounding metal a bit. Maintain preheat all you can, repeat the process with the other half. Now you'll understand why you removed so much metal, Place the two pieces a pit farther apart than you want the finished product, you want an open root. Weld will shrink as it cools & you'll have to line bore anyway to put bushings back in. Fill the gap. It'll be hard to get a TIG torch in that deep, you might want stick for that. Peen often with a needle scaler. Keep it hot after welding. Good luck! Meanwhile begin the search for a donor for a transplant.
Thank you for the replies. We'll try the welding but also start looking after a replacement. The other side was repaired as well (see picture) it looks awful but it holds. Attached two pictures of the crack, not sure how deep it is.
It may not be visible, but it is weakened all the way through. You will end up scrapping the tractor, or finding a donor part. The attempts at patching it has had already involved NO prep. I wonder if they even ground paint off? Nonetheless, you are welding a part under stress where fit is critical. At best, after welding you'll need machining to fit the bushing or pin back in. A good repair that MIGHT work will cost thousands, with a 70% chance of failure. There is text cast into the part. Does it actually say ductile?
Thanks everyone for this thread on servicing/repairing the parking brake. One thing I would add: You do not need to drain the hydraulic fluid. Just jack up the front end of the tractor & the fluid stays in, per the service CD I purchased. And it worked for me!