Was back dragging and for some reason, the transmission will not engage. No forward or reverse possibly linkage? Checked all fuses & wiring that I can get to at this time. Where else should I look ? everything else operates fine. Not sure on testing relays or where are other connections are located. Just ordered the service manual but will not receive it for 10 + days. Anything I can check/troubleshoot now?
Could be a broken snap ring it was quite common on the 580SL and SL2. Pressure check would confirm this. See attached picture item 16/16A. If it has the original snap ring the eyes can break off and hold the modulation piston open, and the flow divider thus no forward or reverse and it is usually a sudden occurrence. Kit 368437A1 is available to fix this problem. You can repair this easily. I always removed the rubber flap between the engine and the cab, easier access. You can pull it to one side. Unplug all the harnesses from the transmission valve. Remove the 6 bolts and remove the valve. Remove the cap from the rear of the valve with an allen wrench. Don't lose the little check ball and spring when you remove it. Remove the piston and springs and see if snap ring has broken. You may find pieces stuck in the flow divider.
Thank you for the speedy reply gggraham Just gor her to a safe place (off the road) and will check your suggestions. Is this located on the drivers side ? not sure of what I'm looking for
It is on top of the reverser right behind the engine, it is not difficult to remove and fix, gg has done a fine job of describing the repair.
Yep, Lately, I need to reread posts thanks for the wake-up call.
We’re you using the “de clutch” button on the loader joystick when the problem happened? I’ve seen the button go bad before. Pretty easy to test this with an ohm meter.
No, I don't think so but, there is a chance without realizing it. I do recall trying to eliminate it while checking all functions. Nothing seems to get her in gear. Dismantled shifter & looked ok but did not ck for power. Looking for a schematic/line drawing of this system issue. Kind of a dummy when it comes to testing ohms Come to think of it, I might not have engaged the trans shift lever clutch cutout button once or twice while working her. Could I have shorted something out ? Maybe a relay ? all fuses are ok.
I've had to take the red button ( for the clutch ) apart and clean up the connections once but I can't remember if in was stuck engaged or disengaged.
The Interlock timing relay is also worth checking. It is taller than the other relays & can shake itself out of contact while digging rocky ground. Just make sure it is in it's socket properly, unfortunately you need to buy another one & swap it to check operation as there isn't another one there the same to do the swap & test it with.....
If the declutch button is stuck you will not be able to start the machine. If you can start the machine that would eliminate the declutch button.
Totally forgot about that relay, yes they are troublesome. I always had a spare in the tool box for diagnosis.
Checking all relays question, can they be swapped with each other to check working order? They seem difficult to pull out is there a trick? don't want to create another problem. What is the best way to check each one? I So, after pulling out the shuttle interlock timing relay, I smelled that it was burnt. Some of the numbers are worn off, and I haven't been able to get a match with the numbers I think they are. So far I have: 5[F]E 931. [6] .7-02 2786[6][3]A4. ****all numbers/letters in parenthesis are best guesses. Does anyone know the right numbers and letters? I have ordered the Repair manual, but won't have it until May 10th.
Pull out another one and if the pins match give it a try. No. should be the same if it's the same configuration. Might be a good idea to check the wire to the shuttle interlock for a short.
The current CNH part number is 347706A1 which replaces the original 278665A1 (which has likely changed a number of times A2, A3, A4 etc) I have only bought genuine CNH for these - be seated when they quote you the price.... @Billrog As said earlier, you can't swap it with another as it is a timer relay & the only one on the machine.
Yep, I believe it's the fault. Has a burnt smell when testing on ohm meter no readings. Looks good but smells burnt. While running thru gggraham's suggestion, I do see a red & black wire that appears to be newly installed. 5 yrs prior to my ownership anyway. Just not able to get into position to see what's going on in there. Still at it even if that timing relay is it. Now just getting to know her (Roxann) 580 SL Series 2
That relay is a time delay, Hella makes a lot of them. Some are adjustable, like this one https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hla-996152131 Hella catalog https://www.hella.com/partnerworld/us/Product-range/Electrics/Relays-2315/ relay catalog is toward the bottom. Pages 53 on have time delay relays. Some delay on, some off. The same thing that keeps your interior lights on in your car. Bosch also, and others. Joe H t
Many thanks for this info. Joe
Hopefully, my dealer has a replacement. Mud season in Maine, roads need work.
Over the years, I'm sure I've tried to buy those relays aftermarket, using a Hella number that was on them - but of course, nobody ever seems to have them over here, & say that Hella Australia has never stocked them........must say I haven't tried to get one in the last 10 yrs, but I wouldn't hold my breath....
airman, you are correct on the model number for that shuttle interlock timing relay. My dealer "Beauregard" in Bangor Maine had the same one # 347706A3 So glad that once installed she fired right up & went into gear. All is good right now just need to put a few hours on it. The service manager was such a wealth of information and more than helpful. This Dealership must treat the help really well for the service I experienced. Now all relays are a 45 Amp $120. on the timing relay & 25.00 on the others. Hope this helps others. Many thanks to all who helped me with this.
Gee, Beauregard, my last name, is located in VT & NH as well as Bangor. I find them unpleasant to deal with. I use Town Line in Plainfield NH. Wonderful to deal with, they've bailed me out on a number of occasions. No bargains to be had, but paying for a fix, or advice that avoids an expensive haul to get it fixed makes the cost worthwhile.
You're Welcome @Squire ! Hope you told them that you found out what was wrong with the machine from a guy in Australia over the internet. Would have been very interesting to see what could have happened if they sent a service tech out to you to diagnose your issue. A 580SL would be considered prehistoric by a young whipper snapper. I've seen transmissions get removed, new charge pumps & convertors get fitted to machines to repair this same problem. The owners are always pretty ticked off with the other mechanic when I show up swap a relay & the machine drives like it should.
Know exactly what you are saying Nothing like paying someone to learn on your equipment. Been having same problem with my 7.3 diesel. What really got me going was the speedy reply given by gggraham. While not spot-on, it is directly related to the issue. Something made this Hi $$$ relay die ? This site is great for a greenhorn like myself. Waiting for this CD Service Manual sure hope it addresses this issue.
Received my Service Manual and still having a difficult time locating things. Does not seem to break things down. Just provides basic information almost equal to the operator's manual maybe a tad better but was hoping for wiring schematics that sort of information. A very basic question, where is the engine oil coolant filter and why won't my oil temp gauge register? Fuse is fine looking for ground or something. Oil sending unit maybe? All fuel and oil, Hydraulic filters have just been changed.
I have never seen a Case service manual that doesn't have the electrical schematics in it. The engine oil cooler isn't visually apparent because it is an integral part of the oil filter mount that is bolted to the block. I'm not familiar with a 580SL oil temp gauge arrangement. So, I can't comment on it other than with the ignition key on, remove the wire from the sensor and ground it to see if it has any effect on the gauge reading.
Thanks, Tinkerer It was one of those internet CD disks online.
I don't know if it helps, but here is an image I copied on the internet. It is from the service manual. Click on it to enlarge it At the top of the image is the page description. ---> Electrical Systems--->Harnesses and Connectors. Look for that in your manual index. All the electrical schematics should be next to it. Do use Adobe Acrobat for a .pdf reader or some other .pdf software ?