Ran across a different cold starting problem with the 580 SL. It takes a little longer to start in cold conditions but recently it has turned over and tried to start but quits after a few seconds. Have to crank the starter agian and usually do this maybe 7 or 8 times before it catches and runs. It appears something is shutting off fuel solenoid and starter after only 2 or 3 seconds or so of cranking. I'd like to get to the bottom of this before it refuses to start at all. Is there some 'protection' circuit that might cause this. Otherwise this is a good running machine and my right hand helper. Thx in advance.
this is assuming some basics of good filters and good battery and connections, when it does start is it smoky, and I know nothing much fuels for different seasons that may cause this. Couple of things you could try, either connect a meter to the fuel solenoid to check power as you start or hot wire it on. try pumping the lift pump, with ignition on, before you try to start, you could have a fuel line sucking air.
There are 2 different types of injector pump on the SL. Can you describe the type of pump you have? If you have the EC engine, it has the 'in line' bosch pump - these sometimes have a sticky solonoid that may require some lube or the solonoid may need replacing.
It sound like you have the inline bosch pump with the external solenoid. If it is you will have a solenoid between the pump and the block with a 3 wire harness going to it. Try turning the key to the run position and reach the lever on the backside of the pump and move it towards the fan end of the engine. It should latch and stay. You can go ahead and start the engine as long as you dont turn the key switch back to off first. The solenoids get weak and are replaced with a new style that is a little larger and mounts different.
Winnipeg.. What degrees is it there in the mornings when you start the machine? And does your have the cold start system? From my experience this sounds like air in the line. Do you have any fuel leaks showing?
Thx for the responses lads. The Super L started without problem (immediately) until it got cooler the last couple of weeks. By that I mean about -5 C or 25 F. Battery is good so I wonder if it is the fuel solenoid (non-emissions engine -1997) and the hold coil is a little weak. I think the exhaust was smoking though as it cranked (pull-in coil working). At any rate it is probably the original so it should be replaced. I'm going to check it this weekend. My other Cummins 4BTs crank solidly at the same temp as long as I keep on the starter without cutting out like this one does. Fuel solenoid seems like a good place to start checking tho. Thx again. Is anyone familiar with a low oil press shut-down or cut-out?
Is it just not firing well or is the starter kicking out also? Just wondering since you said the starter was cutting out. If the starter is disengaging on its own while the switch is in the start position you could have other problems like a bad switch, start relay, or starter.
Well, as it was sputtering and trying to start after 2 or 3 seconds of cranking it would cut out completely as if power to the starter and fuel solenoid had both been cut off. Yet starts like a damn when warm. I think I'll replace the fuel solenoid for reliability especially as it sounds like they've been upgraded but it seemed odd that the starter would cut out after only a few seconds and then works again when the key is turned off and on again without fail. It should just keep on cranking. I'm not sure if it has a 'safety' relay designed to interrupt cranking if the alternator is showing voltage production like my sk130 4BT but I'll have to check that too. I wish they wouldn't put those things on these machines. The 580 is a 1997 with the original engine. Thx.
This 580 has the early injector with the simple one wire solenoid and it does run so I guess it's ok. After looking thru the on line parts manual I see it simpler than I thought. I think this is more a starter problem. Thx for your responses.
Be sure your battery cables have good clean contacts, especially where it earths at the chassis. Good idea to run an earth cable from battery to bell housing , near the starter.
I have a super l with simuliar problems cranks but hard too start. Tried cleaning fuel tank,filters,etc. Does this machine have glow plugs? After machine starts it starts fine. Thanks for your help!
I also had trouble with my 580 SL. My trouble was fuel pump and like yours it started happening with cooler weather. It would start and run 5-10 seconds and die. I would have to pump fuel back up and it would start up and run. Don't remember price but it wasn't expesive or hard to change. Good luck.
I think there is a 580SL and a 580SL Series 2. Do you know which one you have? Also you need to find the nameplate on the engine. Is it a 4-390 or a 4T-390?
COBBIE, Rooster75 is likely on the money. Have you tried cold cranking with jumper leads on it? Any better? - maybe a crook starter motor.....
Before I tried to fire mine up this weekend (it was -5 C) I took the one wire off the fuel solenoid valve and turned it over. (this is what Case sez to do to pre load oil into the galleries to save the turbo). The starter cranked long and hard so no problem with it. It has a new fuel pump on it. Guess I will give this problem a rest as it does start. When it's really cold I plug in the 4000 Watt circulatory heater. Usually in half an hour it's just like its been running for an hour. Even at -35C. thx for your comments.
580l start Did you check your fuel lines? We have had a lot of cracking of the lines. Also a air leak on the return side can cause just that complaint. I chased one with a similar problem and found one of the copper horseshoe gaskets at the return line at the injector was never in place from the factory, replaced that and never seen it back for that issue. Mel
Thx, I'm going to check all the fuel lines and copper gaskets next time I'm out at the machine.
I have a Case 1988 580 K which the starter was engaging but sticking on, constantly cranking, I had to disconnect the battery cables...Any thoughts?
You most likely need a new starter solenoid. Could even be an ignition switch if it didn't return to the run position when you let go of the key.
First thing to do would be disconnect ignition switch the wire from the solenoid. With the machine in neutral and the brakes on, very briefly touch the disconnected battery cable to the battery post. If the starter is then energized you have a faulty solenoid. Be very careful that the tractor can't start and run over someone !