I bet several folks have this problem. I finally found the fuel leak by cleaning the injector pump. It leaking underneath the throttle lever right there on the top right of the photo. But when I go to the case parts there is no seals etc available. Seems I have to buy a reman unit ($1100) just for a small leak. I found a manual on the injector although it's not the exact one, and shows no seal/rebuild kits etc part numbers. It looks like the cover has to come off as the stem seal is underneath the cover. This means I need the gasket for the cover plus whatever seals. Has anyone found these parts available? Mine is a CAV (Lucas) U3042F152. S/N 25250417 Also A50L800-1-2400 on the unit which I believe settings used. I think the current Case # is J908645 or JR915882
I got seals and gasket for mine from my local diesel shop, these pumps are extremely common so they should have gasket and shaft seals. Hope some one will cone on and confirm this as its been a while since i did mine, the throttle lever shaft had a spring connection onside, so take the lever off the shaft and then as you lift the cover push on the shaft so it stays with the pump, that was the only little tricky bit. That is how I remember doing it.
Case do not supply any parts for these pumps except for the shut off solonoid. Like Bala said, speak to local fuel injection shop & they can supply parts. Pumpguysc is the local guru & has helped other members, come on thabull where are you now?
I have looked online and finding replacement parts is not easy to find. I found enough to see that they do offer rebuild kits although mine is working great, just leaking. Seems the places I have found wants to "rebuild them" and reset/recalibrate or whatever they do. That "A50L-1-2400" stamped on the side related to how they set them up, and I don't understand all this. I just want diesel fuel to stop leaking down onto the engine. I actually tightened the little nut today on the throttle linkage and helped this leak I think. However now one of the bleeder screws is also leaking. I would like to have all new seals for the unit.
You can reseal the shaft with seals from your local pump shop, but the housing and shaft are worn and will probably leak after awhile. Our pump shop rebuilds the covers and installs a new sleeve in the housing and a new shaft. We stock 2 rebuilt covers so check your pump shop to see if they can rebuild your cover or have a rebuilt cover on the shelf. We get about $175.00 for the rebuilt cover and needed gaskets.
I don't really have an injector shop close, but I am looking. Do you have one rebuilt that I can buy for $175, and is this fairly easy to remove and replace? And if so are there any adjustments that will need to made later that are critical?
Injector Rebuild Kit I did find this... But I am not 100% sure it's the correct one. They offer just the upper gaskets/o-rings for only $9 + shipping. The whole rebuild kit is $34. http://www.ebay.com/itm/39035920668...87&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT&vxp=mtr
I have a couple on the shelf or I can get you in contact with my pump shop and have them ship you one. There is a core charge on the cover also as they want the old cover back. As far as installing it is a little tricky as you have to lift the cover up about 1/2 inch and unhook the spring between the lever and the governer. As far adjustments the only thing to adjust after the cover is replaced is the idle and full throttle settings.
Same thing happens on Bosch pumps on Deutz engines. Throttle shaft wears housing so new seal is not effective in making a seal, have to fit bushing in worn housing so seal can do it's job.
Do I understand correctly that I should not buy a $45 seal/gasket set and do this myself? What does replacing the bushing involve? Drilling? Pressing in? I suppose the $175 price includes $15 of gaskets/seals for the top and the labor to replace the bushing and insert the o-rings. That $34 complete rebuild kit I found on e-bay has some form of stem showing in the picture.
View attachment Pump_Plus.pdf I'm not sure this is exactly what mine looks like inside, but it has to be similar. I suppose the spring mentioned is the governor spring that connects to the throttle lever that is leaking.
I have the same exact problem with my machine, it is leaking really badly, but the pump works fine. Goose, I would like to buy the parts to replace it from you since you helped me identify my ghost controls problem in another thread. Please pm me or post how I can get in touch with you to get the parts ordered. Thanks, Chuck
We don't really know what you're cabable of bowen. You need to decide if you are going to do this. It may need a bushing fitted to the throttle shaft to make it 100%, but I have resealed many of these without the need. The injection shop I use to get parts won't sleeve them any more, as the brass bush is not as durable as the original alloy, so new covers (cav # 7180-872N) are fitted when they are needed. A new shaft may also be req (cav 7123-770L ) - these are a little different to the original as they are no longer available. The supplier will hopefully advise you. Some pump shops like to play their cards close to their chest, they won't give any advise as they want the pump in their shop........ If you decide to do this, you need to be VERY CAREFUL lifting the top cover off the pump as the spring can go on in a number of different configerations & if you get it wrong, the pump won't run the same. Also there is a small clevis pin & a tiny spring involved that can go missing. Here is a pic supplied by another member, THE SPRING & PIN LOCATIONS ARE DIFFERENT TO YOURS. But it shows in inside fairly well. As you lift the cover - note the correct mounting points for your application & don't drop any of the small parts. Long nose pliers are a must have. Goes without saying - you want NO DIRT in your injector pump - so clean the work area thoroughly.
If I can find the correct kit for mine I am going to order a kit and try this myself. I have fixed lots of stuff I never worked on before. I actually almost have my stem leak fixed just by tightening the shaft nut a bit. But at least one of the the bleeder plugs are leaking after the engine get real warm. If I decide to take the head off, I have a guy to help me. I likely would NOT try drilling and pressing in a new brass bushing, unless a new cap was really expensive. I already got one response from a shop in MI wanting $350 to $550 to repair my unit and I would need to ship it there. Unit down for at least 10-14 days. I think you are right about the shops. They DO NOT want to sell the parts, which are relatively cheap. They want to get the units into the shop so they can use $25 worth of parts and charge $400 as "rebuilt". I just have some small leaks. I will check the stem closer later to see if I can feel any loose axial motion. Many thanks for your advice.
Wow. Looking for these part numbers you listed is wild. This one on the shaft... http://www.omsdiesel.com/product.php?grup_id=3 does not list the part number ending in "L" but they do show an oversized version. This place is in Turkey! I found the cover you note on Ebay but the picture does not look exactly like mine. It's cheap! http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...3558372&category=122139&_trksid=p5197.c0.m619
Try Blue Ridge Diesel bowen. http://www.blueridgediesel.com/
I should have said that this is the only cover that will fit & it does look a little different than the original. The one in the link looks correct.
I am going to try calling these guys in the morning. Maybe they can get the cover and shaft.
I just ordered a new top cover, shaft and seals from Lance at Mylex Intl (they have the seal kits listed on ebay) for $111 plus shipping. The top cover on ebay from the uk is super cheap but I wasn't sure how long it would take to get here!
I have actually found a cheaper place that this, but unsure about all these parts just yet. Did they give you the part numbers on the top cover and new shaft? These parts are crazy and some treat all of the numbers like a great secret. I think it's because some sell them with 300% markup.
No part numbers were given. I ordered the parts based on the pump number. Let us know what you finally decide on. I'm happy with the deal I got vs. sending the pump out for rebuild for big $$$, plus all the hassle of removal and shipping downtime etc!
Check out this link http://www.tpub.com/content/constructionbituminous/TM-5-3895-373-34/css/TM-5-3895-373-34_283.htm This appears to be a part of an important technical manual # TM 5-3895-373-34 that has ALL kinds of info on a total pump rebuild. (Up top use the "back" and "next" buttons to navigate pages.) To get the manual you have to subscribe to their service, but you can look at this for free. I have printed the part I need with some clever cut and paste into a word document.
You guys are killin' me..lol.. I rebuild those top covers every day for 75.00 + shipping.. new throttle shaft if needed and sleeved w/a steel bushing if needed.. a kit can be bought from any pump shop for 20.00 or the individual gaskets and orings for about 10.00 contact me direct for p#'s This is an ongoing problem so I think I'll mail thebull and see if he'll keep the #'s as a "sticky"
Well, my parts came in the mail today and I had a chance to put them in. Really wasn't too bad of a job at all. Just made sure to keep everything clean. I know it was easier than taking the whole pump out to send it off to a shop!! Alrman's part numbers were spot on! Thanks for all the help guys!
My pump was leaking from the bottom around the ""Auto Advance Housing". Both of the bolts on this was loose, and I tightened them a bit. The large 19mm, was no problem, but the smaller one (maybe a 1/2" nut) scared me because it felt as if the thing might have stripped a thread. I have a gasket set ordered and I wonder if I can take this off from underneath to replace all the gaskets & o-rings without removing the pump from the engine?
Did you get any part numbers for what you got? I thnk you were getting a new shaft and upper gasket set.
You're welcome cfw3
Just to recap: The part numbers were as follows: Cover: 7180-872N Throttle Shaft 7123-770L Overhaul Kit 7135-110 Sure is nice to be leak free, from the injection pump, that is... :cool2
One thing to make clear.. Besides, GLAD YOU GOT IT FIXED,,LOL NOT ALL pumps are the same.. You REALY NEED to have your pump #'s off the name plate!! What was the final bill..?? Just a guess here.. kit 20.00 shaft>25.00 cover>85.00 shipping>12.00?? Just wondering??
I ordered that one off E-Bay all the way from Aberdeen in the UK. (Link was above in this thread) Ordered Nov 23. This cost me less than $16 including shipping, exchange rate etc. It finally came today in a small package. Shipped via "Royal Mail". It looks to be brand new and the correct part except for the redesign that was noted. It is the 7180-872N. Hopefully it was not some weird factory reject... I do not know if they have any more of these or not, but surely this is easier that rebushing the throttle shaft hole.
Service needed I have a throttle linkage leak in my Lucas Fuel Injector pump cover, it's off a Case 580k 4 390 motor. Can I get in touch with you to get this fixed? Thanks -Mike
Mike, Seeing your a new member, you cant email me without atleast 4 posts.. I'll see if I can mail you..
Thanks, my email address is [email protected] . Thanks. I did replace the seals on the shaft itself this weekend, the existing seals were dry. There wasn't much sign of wear but it was tough to see. I would like to get a price on a new cover and shaft.
I don't know the rules with posts Case 580 86 model I've had the the housing on the injector pump off a bunch of times I snapped the studs and replaced them Replaced gaskets I wondered if anyone has a better idea about getting the housing resealed Need to get it fixed once and for all Thanks all the same
TFK.. sometimes, more than not.. the housing bore is worn and/ or the throttle shaft itself needs replacing.. A bushing can be installed in the top cover, but if its the throttle/shut-off shaft, they have to be replaced.. IF its leaking under the top cover, at the gasket.. 2 gaskets can be used.. IF you tighten the nuts to tight, it will bow the cover and will leak also.. NEW top covers are available but we'll need your pump #'s off the name plate for the correct one.. same goes for the thr./shut-off shafts..
From what I understand Its 3.9 Cummins Pump is U 3042F 150 07940075CBU A501 800 1 2400 Those are the numbers on my pump
Top cover #>7180-872N>>1 Throttle shaft#>7123-770L>>1 New thr. shaft requires a bushing #7139-433B>>1 TC gasket#>7180-451>>1 or 2 Top nut gaskts>5339-970>>2 thr/shut-off orings>7185-950>>4 All those P# are Lucas/Delphi.. and before you ask.. I dont sell parts.. your local fuel shop can get them..
OR like I said in an earlier post.. I can ream out the housing and install Teflon bushings.. You can click on my name and send me an email if you would like to discuss it.. a new cover is about 125.00 and a thr. sh is around 27.00 + around 12.00 in gaskets.. I don't know how much the bushing is.. + shipping..
I know this thread has been dead for awhile but I too have a Case 580K with a leaking Lucas injector pump. Leak is coming from where the throttle shaft goes through the cover, I haven't torn it down to see if it's just the seal or if the cover is worn. Sounds like thepumpguysc is the expert on this, below are the numbers off of my pump. DPA U3042F840 Ser. 02000298AHU A71 L-1100-1-2400 I will probably just start with a rebuild kit and hope that fixes my issue unless I can get this teflon bushing and bore out the cover myself. If somebody has the part number's I need to get this leak fixed that would be great.
I've had that repair done on 2 different machines both times they drilled it out and put a new bushing for the shaft.
Thanks for the reply. Machine has 8000 hrs on it I am sure the cover is worn and needs a bushing.
7135-110 kit
Thanks I will order that up and see if it resolves my issue.
Hey guys, just found this thread and am starting on my mission to rebuild for the same problem. I'm having trouble finding the parts based on the numbers in this thread. 1989 Case 580K backhoe, Lucas CAV u3042F810 leaking at throttle shaft, possibly where the two halves come together as well, so while I'm in there I'd like to replace that gasket too. Also, I'm getting a leak above the fuel filter/separator housing if you can help with that as well.
Top cover oring kits on ebay.. google>> CAV top cover gaskets.. "mini kits" are available from 6-12.00 w/ free ship. Full kits are about 20.00>> 7135-110
Thanks pumpguysc! I ordered a mini kit for $9, figured it was worth giving it a shot for that price. If the cover is shot, do you have any advice on where to get one? I found one for $95 on a site called Bonanza, can I find it any cheaper?
I'll look it up & letcha know..
Thank you sir!!
I can buy it for 70.00 but factor in the shipping & your at 90.. real quick.. shipping TO ME, then shipping TO YOU.. Why not wait & cross that bridge when u get to it.?? U can always send me the cover & I'll put a Teflon bushing in it.. & you wont have to worry about wearing that alum/ hsg out ever again..
While we're on the subject.. The reason they leak is usually do to the fact that the linkage is not adjusted correctly.. & it puts WAY TO MUCH force on the lever & shaft.. Next time your at the machine w/ a helper.. have them get in the cab & mash the pedal to the floor while u watch the throttle action.. That lever should touch the stop screw & lightly break over the spring.. MOST of them break over the spring & keep going until the lever & spring are bottomed & start flexing.. WAY TO MUCH force is being applied.
That's one of those not so common common sense things! Thanks for the tip, I'll definitely check it out. On a side note, there has to be a manual fuel shutoff valve before the filters right? I'm not seeing anything where I thought it'd be, do you know what it looks like on a 580K?
I think I found it, I assume at Right angle to the line is off?
Ed, that is not a shut off. That is the lever to manually operate the mechanical fuel pump. I don't know of a shutoff valve or see the need for one really. May be one at tank where supply line connects.
Holy ****.. The MANUAL shut off is on the pump top cover.. Put the wrench's down & just walk away.!!!
Oh boy, ok, 1. Should the lever be inline or at a right angle now that I've messed with it lol. 2. I assume I need to shutoff the fuel supply before I tackle the injector cover rebuild right?
The lever in your pictures is the priming lever on the transfer pump, it is spring loaded and you can't shut it off, it pumps fuel manually when the engine is not running. The INJECTION PUMP is the one that has four lines going to the individual injectors. it will be messy to take the cover off of the injection pump. You need to study this setup, watch some youtube videos, and when you realize what's going on, then get somebody to help you with a little experience. Taking the cover off and putting it back is easy, the hard part is usually getting the linkage hooked back up right with the cover almost in place.
Thanks Delmer. I have studied it and watched videos. In one rebuild manual I found it said to shut the fuel off first. On that particular tractor it had a shutoff before the filters so you could change filters, etc. with a full tank of fuel without the mess. I assumed this hoe would be the same. And I agree, the linkage looks to be the tough part, but I'll get it.
Fuel shut off valve on a 580K is located on the chassis, under/behind the LH step up to cab. I'm another one to advise you that playing with injector pumps can get a novice into a great deal of trouble. An experienced repairer can sort this problem for you in under an hour, & you will likely get some very good maintenance tips from them while they are there.
Thanks, I knew there had to be one! I hear you guys, I do. Unfortunately I'm the only guy for the job. While this is my first experience with this engine, I'm extensively versed in rebuilding tractors, so I'm hopeful I'll be able to knock it out no problem.
U can use the machines fuel shut off.. or take a pair of vice grips & lightly squeeze a rubber line..
YIKES!!!!
Thanks pumpguy! Gasket/O-rings will be here Wednesday to rebuild Thursday. Today/ tomorrow it's removing gland nuts to rebuild leaking cylinders!! Oh the Joy's of heavy equipment!
Alright, you guys can say I told you so if that kind of thing makes you happy! I cleaned around the pump very well. I CAREFULLY took the top cover off making sure I noted the position of the spring on the throttle linkage and the clevis in the governor arm. I replaced the o-rings on the throttle shaft and shutoff shaft. I had to scrape off the old gasket, it was a real mess and it made sense why it was leaking between the pump and cover. I plugged the holes in the pump before scraping to prevent any crap from getting in there. I got both sides nice and shiney and installed the new gasket. I put the cover back on EXACTLY how it came apart. I should have mentioned before I took it off I replaced the inline fuel filter/fuel filter/water separator. I tried to turn off the fuel shutoff coming out of the tank but unfortunately it didn't work, so when I replaced the inline I lost a lot of fuel. It didn't want to start so I followed the bleeding procedure but the manual lift pump doesn't work. I was able to get it primed though by cracking the bottom screw and using the ignition to turn over the motor, then did the top screw and it fired right up. After rebuilding the cover, I can not get it primed at the bottom screw. The first screw in the procedure, above the filter/ separator blows fuel fine, but nothing out of the bottom screw. It'd be so much easier if the manual pump worked!! Anyway, is there a common reason I'm overlooking for why I can't get it primed to the bottom of the pump?
Oh, one other thing... I had to replace the line that goes into the top cover. The nut was stuck on the line and twisted when taking it off, so I put a brand new line on.
Are u talking about the bleed screw by the name plate on the inj. pump?? U cant get fuel THERE.?? it has to have fuel THERE if its running.. The top bleed screw on the top cover.. is just a vent & u don't need to mess w/ it.. all the air will go out that line u broke/twisted/replaced. U NEED A NEW SUPPLY PUMP.. the one w/ the manual hand primer..
I sure hope u didn't nick the top cover or main pump hsg when u scraped it..?? If it starts leaking, u know u did.. DO NOT keep tightening the 2 nuts on the cover.. it will bow the cover & you'll never stop the leak & end up having to buy a cover..
Where did u buy the line & how much was it.?? I know a guy that needs one.. cough, cough..
Yes, the screw by the nameplate. I didn't nick either, I was careful and used a plastic scraper. Not my first rodeo with that kind of deal. I was careful not to overtighten the DBA posts. It was $68 total tractorpartsasap.com So if I was getting fuel out of that bleeder before I rebuilt the cover, what didn't I do right to not get it now?
It MUST HAVE air in it.. that bleed screw is the bleeder for the air, between the filters & the pumps pumping circuit.. so if its running, it has to have fuel there.. did u take it all the way out to see if its clogged w/ rust or garbage.?? DO NOT do that while its running.. You'll get a face full of fuel once u get fuel there{unclogged}
Seeing this AINT YOUR 1ST RODEO.. how about turning the KEY ON & bleeding it.!!??? Lol..
Lol, I learned the hard way looking at it open and having my stepson crank the ignition! It won't run, it'll fire off a shot of ether but then dies, which tells me it's not getting fuel. So are there any tricks to sucking fuel up to there? Vacuum somehow?
I did, to open the solenoid right? Since the manual pump isn't working, I've been having someone else turn the ignition to try and prime it that way.
The last sentence in post #65 will tell u what u NEED TO DO.
Here's their part number for that line.
IF u cant get a steady stream of fuel at the bleeder by the name plate.. it'll never run.. PERIOD. U "could" have someone pressurize the fuel tank while u crack open the bleeder.. & see what u get.. but "it sounds like" your supply pump is dead.. Loosen the fuel line GOING INTO the pump & spin it over.. U SHOULD get wet.. IF NOT, your supply pump IS DEAD & ur gonna burn up your starter trying to get it to run..
I hear you on the pump, I do, my reservation with that is it wouldn't manually pump before I rebuilt the cover, but I was able to bleed it by using the ignition. The only thing that's changed is I rebuilt the cover. I'll try pressurizing it, check the bleeder isn't plugged, then check that line and see what I get.
BE SURE & fill your filters before u start testing anything.. The transfer pump built into the inj. pump might pull the fuel from a full filter & it might prime the system.?? IF u get it running, U KNOW the main supply pump is bad & your killing the supply pump INSIDE the inj, pump.. The frigging supply pumps aren't but 30-40.00.. & easy enough to change.. WHY are u fighting it.?? IF u loosen the fuel line going into the inj. pump & get nothing.. U can rig up a temp. feed using a fuel can or a 1 gallon jug w/ a rubber hose to the pump inlet.. just make sure the connection is air tight.
That's really good thinking! I had to take the filter head off to replace that vent line, maybe there's no fuel in there. I'll try that too! Thanks for brainstorming with me man!
You're 110% right on the pump. It's a long story man, but I was asked to get this machine going for a man in my Church. In trade for the labor he's allowing me to use the machine to dig the foundation for the home I'm getting prepared to build. He didn't want the repairs to take all Summer. I know it's dumb man but it is what it is.
Are these the same? I can't find one exactly the same, but it's the same Case part number.
I hope it's the same, I just ordered it lol. Are there any surprises swapping them out? Springs hidden somewhere? Anything weird?
Hey Mike, I forgot to tell you I got one for $24; $11 for the line and $13 shipping from Wengers, and that's all we'll say in public on THAT subject!
They aren't the same.. if u notice on the "new one" the connection is flush w/ the top of the pump where your "old one" has an adapter that raises it about 2 inches.?? I hope that's just a bad picture.?? Oh Wait.. I seem to remember that adapter comes off..?? Good deal Mitch.!! I hope everything is nice & dry now.??
I searched and searched and there isn't an identical match. It's the same part number as the Case parts diagram calls for, so it should be good. Yea, looks like both lines have an adapter. You'll have to do the same thing with that vent line, there's another piece on the end that screws off.
Hey thepumpguysc, guess what?? Bad connection on the cutoff solenoid. It was intermittent. Fixed it, bled to the screw, and she fired up thank the Lord!!!!! But she died when I took my foot off the gas, how do i adjust the idle?
Idle speed doesn't change on it's own, you still have fuel problems.
Where's the don't like button Delmer?? I only had a few minutes to play with it, I was just happy it started! Tomorrow I'll replace the primer pump and hopefully that'll solve it.
The idle adjustment screw is on the top cover.. duh.. BUT DONT adjust it until AFTER u change out the lift/supply pump.. & give it plenty of revs up & down to get rid of the air. It probably died because it cant draw fuel that far at such a low rpm{low idle}
10-4
Hey pumpguy, what's the hook on the back of the primer pump go under?
OK..I'm done.. anybody else, feel free to jump in..
I thought this forum was to help each other out, but I guess not. No worries, I got it figured out. Thanks for all your help pumpguy.
IT IS.. but I told u along time ago u have no business holding a wrench.. & to walk away. but u keep dragging me back in.. Its a SIMPLE take OFF & bolt ON.. & u have to ASK how to do it.. YOUR THE ONE who said you were EXTENSIVLY VERSED in rebuilding tractors BUT didn't know what a shut off valve was.. a hand primer or a supply pump was.. & NOW u wanna know where "the hook goes" on the new supply pump..?? dammit man..
I been holding a wrench for almost thirty years. This is my first diesel. Also, I've been under extreme pressure schedule wise to get this done which has me not thinking 110%. Not to mention I have a full time job I'm working too. I just needed some extra help here and there to keep from shooting this stupid machine. There was a reason why I asked about where the hook went, it actually wasn't a simple bolt on, and that's why the old one wasn't working. I figured it out and now it's working 100%. Also, I know what a fuel shut off is. I didn't care about the one on the pump, I was talking about the main shut off that comes out of the tank. That allows you to change the inline fuel filter with out running it out of fuel. There is one, it's on the parts diagram and I found it. I'm sorry I've been so frustrating, I'm not totally stupid, just new to diesels. You do this for a living man, I had to learn as I went. But you know what? This machine is running better than when I got it and went from 7 leaks to 0. I'd say that's pretty good for someone who has no business holding a wrench. Thanks for all your help, I'll look elsewhere for help and fellowship in the future.
What happened that it wasn't a simple bolt on Ed ? Help and fellowship is abundant here. Don't be so hard on pumpguy. Reread your thread. He gave you a LOT of professional advice that you won't find anywhere else !
It wasn't my intention to be hard on anyone. I appreciate everyone's help more than y'all will ever know. I was put in a tough position fixing this machine, under a tough time constraint, AND it was my first diesel. It just sucks to be put down, to be told I have no business holding a wrench, when you guys don't know me, you have no idea what my abilities are and what I've accomplished. The old pump had no resistance on the lever on the machine, so I assumed it was bad. Once I got the new one I took the old one off and it worked fine off the machine. When you push the lever the hook in the back works. So that made me think it was installed wrong. I went to the parts diagram to see exactly how it interacts inside the motor but it doesn't show me that. I put the old one back on and again there's no resistance on the lever. I simply didn't understand why that would be. So I figured the hook was in the wrong place inside. Is that not pretty sound reasoning? Anyway, I left the old one on and it's running just fine, way better than when I got it.
Strange things happen when replacing lift pumps. Did you compare the two of them and determine if the angle of the arms are identical and the exact same length ? What you describe leads me to think the lift arm is being held in the upstroke position for some reason. When the arm is off of the camshaft lobe there has to be resistance on the priming lever. If there isn't something is wrong. It is not unusual to buy a new buy defective pump either. Also it is very normal for the camshaft lobe to be so worn it will no longer lift the pump arm. Although that isn't a cause for concern in your situation.
The new one actually was defective. I did install it just for kicks to see if it worked in place of the old one. After a few pumps one side broke, so if I do end up replacing the old one I'll definitely get a different brand. So I'm using the old one and it runs fine, just doesn't pump. Please bare with me, I'm going to show my ignorance on diesels... when the pump is off the motor I see a silver rod through the hole. I assume that's the camshaft right? The hook on the back of the pump, does that go above or below the rod? That's where I got confused and that's what I was trying to ask pumpguy. I don't think I can get the hook under it, I tried inserting it 90' and turning, it didn't work. And it makes sense that the lobe raises the arm and makes it pump right? When it's on top there's no resistance in the lever, so that's why I'm confused over it.
The arm on the priming/transfer pump goes against the camshaft, I've never noticed one that would go both above and below, I suppose it's POSSIBLE. The arm is usually formed steel about 1/16" thick bent into a U, the flat part of the U goes against the camshaft, it should be worn shiny where it touches the camshaft. If this description doesn't fit, then the flat part of the arm still goes against the camshaft. Was your new pump the same way with no resistance in the lever installed? uninstalled? Also the cam has to be in position so the arm is not on the lobe for the hand priming lever to work.
Thanks Delmer, that's exactly the description I needed. Honestly I think the new one was crap to begin with so I'm unsure. What you said about the cam being in the right position for the lever to work makes sense. I think that's why it didn't just bolt on too. It's pushing up on the arm so there isn't anything for the lever to do. The question is, how do I fix it?
Cheap aluminum holding the lever on, that wouldn't have held up long at all.
They hold up fine if you dont break it during handling and installation .
Your lever is set up to go on top of the cam. The pump will not line up perfectly flat on your engine block until you start the bolts and pull it down. It has tension on it all the way around the cam lobe, just more on the lobe stroke.
Turn the engine. Or is there something besides the lobe on the cam wrong? is this the right pump for the engine? or the same number as the old one that might be wrong? The new broken pump should have resistance on the arm and the lever, the old one should too, unless the arm is on the lobe of the cam, or the outlet is up to pressure.
Vetech, this thing was a piece of junk. Thin aluminum on either side holding on the lever. Extremely poor design! Forget the new pump, I sent it back. I'm using the old pump. It works when it's off the machine. It installs just as Vetech described, arm on top of the cam, won't sit flush till you tighten down the bolts. I actually did try turning over the motor just to see if it changed anything, didn't seem to.
Your cam only turns 1/2 of crankshaft revolutions. If your cam lobe was on its top in the fuel pump opening you will need to turn the crankshaft 2 complete revolutions to move the cam lobe 180 degrees.
Ok, I'll give it a shot, but at the moment everything is running great! The fuel injection rebuild was a complete success, no more leak. I also found the main shutoff leaking and replaced that. 7 leaks to zero!
Sweet! If it ain't broke no more, dont fix it no more.
That's my philosophy!