I have a 1997 Case 580 super L. Heard a minor noise from the alternator area, and noticed the volt meter indicated a low charging situation. When the noise stopped the voltage returned to normal range, so I assumed something was failing in the alternator. Decided to replace the alternator. Started the backhoe up and initially I had 15 volts charging, then about 1 minute later the new alternator stopped charging. I also noticed that my starter was getting very hot, so I shut it down. After a couple minutes I went to start it and the alternator light started flashing. It would barely click the starter when I turned the key. I decided to reinstall the original alternator, and when I did the machine fired right up, but the starter seemed to be heating up so I shut it down. When I did that, the starter kept spinning for awhile after I shut the engine down. I also noticed before shut down that the old alternator wasn't charging. I've replace the starter twice in the last 3 years. I haven't had any indication that there's a starter problem with the one currently installed. I'm pretty confused around how the starter and alternator could be interfacing like this.
Start switch sticking in crank position? Relay similar? If one of the above may also cause low voltage. Had a F100 pickup come in with a burnt up starter. The start switch was sticking in crank position.
Or a sticking starter relay
Welcome to HEF SF. Check your battery ground cable at frame mounting location, they are prone to rust and corrosion. Also check ground strap from starter to frame. And of course your battery condition.
Key Switch .Mine did the same thing,the starter is what you are hearing . Get a good switch from case
Thanks a lot for the good advice. I found a couple things out. I was cleaning up all the grounds and battery terminals and found the hot side of one of the batteries was loose. Also found that the ignition feed to the starter was sticking on 12 volts occasionally. Traced it back to a sticking ignition switch in the start position. When the key went back to the run position, the feed to the starter was staying at 12 volts so the starter kept running. The gear would retract after starting, but the starter kept turning. That was dragging the alternator down so it looked like it wasn't charging. Thanks again for the help. We live out in the sticks, so finding a good mechanic out here is a problem and advice always adds pieces to the puzzle of resolving the issue.
Also, I replaced the ignition switch about a year ago. Thought I used a solid switch, but going to make sure to get a good OEM quality this time.
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