How much is too much to pay for a Delco 10Si regulator at O'Riely's? This happened. The battery keep gettin drained on my backhoe so I knew somethin' was up. Everything looked OK so I wiggled a few wires and found at least one of the electrical culprits. A tab was broken off the regulator. This should be an easy fix! I looked up a regulator online and it ranged from $7-$15. Total rebuild kits from Amazon only $25. Then this happened. The parts guy down at the local O'riely's parts house tried to charge me $37.00 for just the regulator... What the monkey is he doing? Gouging me, ripping me off or does he work on some kind of commission? If he is screwing me then i'm NEVER going to buy parts from O'Riely's ever again. But I could be wrong or just cheap.
Nah … Just the free enterprise system. O'reilly is just charging what the market will bear. You are free to go elsewhere for your part. And you should... then O'reilly will change their pricing if enough people do the same. But, consider what you are asking for. Is O/R selling a true Delco part ? or a knock off like many parts on line ?
What hosspuller said. Now back to original problem. I have seen many guys change lots of stuff before finding that the diodes in the rectifier were hurt causing a slow drain to ground. I'd pull the whole thing and have it tested. Not saying you haven't hit the nail on the head, just dont miss that as a culprit. Good luck
You live in Hawaii. I suspect the shipping charges for your region are higher there than here on the mainland, also the wait time is longer. O'Reillys and the other brick and mortar stores have an added value for the convenience of having an item on the shelf.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Voltage-Re...epid=1448796884&hash=item2cc2e3aa97:rk:1:pf:0
Good point! I just watched a video where the guy said all 10Si parts were testable with a Fluke except the regulator. Since the tab is broken off the regulator, that test kind of solves itself. Now that im curious I think im going to clean this alternator up inside, solder a pigtail or electrical spade back onto the remaining regulator tabs stub, grease it up and run it on the tractor for a while to see. Which leads me to another set of questions: Is there a particular type of grease I should buy for greasing electronics that use bushings or bearings? I just used generic Walmart multi purpose grease for a 12v starter bushing but id like/ need to grease the bushings in this alternator too. Come to think of it I will also need to service and re-grease three 120ac grinders, a few ac drill motors, two ac bench grinders... dang i need to grease a lot of small bushings and bearings. Any advice about which grease or lube is best for bushings or bearings?
If you're going to open it up, you don't need grease. Just replace the bearings. I mean you're into full blown rebuild mode, so it only makes sense. Closely inspect your brushes. No chips/cracks allowed. Polish the armature with the finest of emery cloth or scotch bright pad. No power tools! NONE! With everything apart, you'll be able to check your rectifier AC into DC . I'll see if I can find the proper method. I can't explain it to well. Better to see it. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjAXegQIBRAB&usg=AOvVaw2iEDmfpr8ksfZBuzwgaxsm Very simple easy to follow. Whether 12 or 24 volts the principal is the same.
replacing the bearings and bushings is the best idea but I use that silicone grease [mentioned in the section on bad grounds in the link] for a lot of small lube jobs - although a lot of those small bearings are sealed or shielded so greasing isn't an option. I got some from amazon that has a needle nose tip on the squeeze bottle so it can get into tight spots without getting too messy. It can take some heat, too, - I've used it on brake caliper slide pins as well. It's great for electrical connections in a corrosive environment - right up your alley. Coat your bulb bases and sockets with a thin coat. Less is more.
I won't ever dissuade anyone who wants to use dielectric grease to prevent corrosion. Just keep in mind that it should only be used on exposed electrical connections such as spades, eyes or binding posts. Never on ground, use penetrating oil. In those little sealed bearings, never proactively add lubricants to them. If you dont know what it was born with, you can do more harm than good. For example, sealed needle bearing assembled with clay based grease, you force a paraffin base , they tack up and seize. That was why I suggested to simply replace vs repack. Good Luck
The entire rebuild kit is under $14 on Ebay. Free shipping
Dang Grady, i might have to put you on my Christmas list. Thanks Not trying to talk above my experience level but I service/ repack sealed bearings all the time. I just pulled the sealed bearings out of the deck spindles (2x2) on my Craftsman LT1500 Lawn Tractor and repacked them. I use a small blade screwdriver or a tool box only dental pick with the point on one end and the flat on the other and carefully remove the plastic shield. (Super easy. Lots of youtube videos on it too.) I pick out both plastic shields if I can, wash and scrub the rust out, repack with Walmart HD wheel bearing grease, replace the shields and put them back. The shields actually keep the dirt and grass out pretty good but just not the water. I need to invent a set of water displacing BUDDY BEARINGS for riding lawn mower spindles. LOL I have to mow once or twice a week so repacking the bearings is just part of the bi-monthly PM, oil change, sharpen blades, etc, etc.
Good Video! Thanks...
Thats what I said to the kid.!!!! I might have constructed an entire sentence with ONLY explectives but I cant be sure.
Sorry funwithfuel, I called this PDF a video. My bad...
All good, as long as it was helpful
It's a waste of material. Corrosion occurs from power towards ground. You never see white chalky grounds, just rusted and burnt.
Thats not even anything I considered Hosspuller. I just figured it would be low dollar BECAUSE it was from O/R. Thanks for making me think twice.