Hi guys. I have an uncomfortable amount of play in the loader/frame joint directly above the load-leveling cylinder. Is the bushing replacement something that can be attempted without special equipment? It appears that the inside bushing spans the joint so you can't lift the loader arms off the frame after removing the loader/frame pivot pin. How do you remove/replace these bushings? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
What is the aprox size of the bushing? With a hollow cilinder and a pullerstud you stand a good chance, or you can (carefully!) melt it out with a oxyacetylene torch or a gouging electrode, clean up the hole a little and a big hammer and a brass punch will come a long way Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk
I've been told that laying three weld beads inside the bushing will shrink it enough to pull out easily. I'm going to try it in the next couple of weeks. I hope the job is not one of these >>:Banghead
You will need to remove the leveler cylinder, cap and plug the lines to the bucket, unpin the rod end of the lift cylinders, support the lift arms, they have 4 bushings in them, remove the tie bolt. The two bushing that go threw the loader arms and into the frame bosses can be removed with a large slide hammer(weld a pull bolt on the inside bushing) or weld a plate across the bushing and use a rod from the other side to drive it out. Most will fall out if it's that worn in the frame bosses and will take some work to straighten out/ weld in some new bosses. Have you tried to tighten the tie bolt any? Are the frame bolts tight at the rear axle? Are the bolts tight at the nose area where the frame mounts?
Bushings are out... but it appears to be the bosses in the frame that are worn. The bushings came out much easier than I had expected... which was probably a bad sign. Once the rod was out completely, the bushing on the worn side could be removed with pliers. I figured I needed bushings, but I think the frame boss has been egged out on that one side, which would take more machining equipment than I have available to fix. I'll check the frame bolts to make sure everything is tight, but I'll just have to keep an eye on it for now. Thanks for the help.
I don't think its unusual on these old tractors. At some point in its service life, mine had both side rebuilt. Parts are available and a good shop could do it on the machine. My bushings were rusted to the shaft, and didn't come apart willingly but once the shaft was out, everything will normally pull apart.
Want to bump this thread. I have exactly this problem on the same tractor. Case 580b. Any further reports from someone fixing this problem. Looked for the pin and bushings at EPS Parts store but they only have them for starting at 580c. Would this be something that a line boring person could do at my place?