:Banghead:Banghead:BangheadI just bought a Case 580B CK backhoe and it has hardly and power in the transmission. I am new to heavy equipment but I know the basics. The machine has a hard time climbing the slightest hill or when pushing into a pile it struggles. The motor doesn't bog down ,it just keep running at the same rpm(maybe a tad bit faster) The trans oil pressure gauuge reads in the green when in gear and clutch is released. When depressed it drops in the red or zero. I Just changed the filter in front of the radiator(torque convertor filter?) and my oil levels are ok. The oil does not appear to be comtaminated. What other thing should I check and or replace? I am also having some brake issuses but I do not believe it is having any effect on the sluggish power. Any suggestions on what else may be causing this?
no reply's. im to having same problem. the strange thing is it worked good until i changed the trans fluid. let me know what you find
Here's an answer Truviking, a little late, but it's here. It's possible your CK is slipping in the clutch packs but more likely you are discovering that these machines are not as efficient as the newer C or D models. With you machine warmed up(drive it around a little), try loading dirt with the front bucket. Rev the engine up, at some point one of the rear tires should spin, even on dry ground. Make sure that you are actually in first gear(to the left and forward) and that a brake is not dragging(shift into neutral on a slight grade and see if she rolls). A 'B' is a dog when cold( especially in winter), so don't evaluate it until warm. The engine won't usually bog down and any significant grade usually has to be climbed in 1st gear with the engine 'flogged' in some cases. Probably a good idea to change your shuttle oil(2 drain points), check for any metal in oil at the same time. Phil
I just bought a 580b today... it barely moves back and forth. I found that the transmission filter was plugged to the hilt with some black shavings of what appear to be plastic. Could this be a bad hydraulic line falling apart on the inside? The material burns and melts like plastic or rubber... so maybe it's not part of a clutch? I have pictures, but I dont think it this allows me to put them on as I am new. Dustin
Dustin, welcome to the forum:drinkup. I don't know of any black plastic material in your system. You didn't say if your machine moves now or not. The Case service manual does make reference to a plugged filter as a possible cause for problems. I think I would check the shuttle oil by draining a little out of the 2 drain plugs, and see what is laying in the bottom. One plug is directly below the shuttle oil level dipstick, on the bottom of the torque tube. The other plug is at the front end of the torque tube, more or less under where the torque converter is located. The shuttle dipstick is located on the right rear portion of the cover, located just in front of the gearshift cover. You might have debris in the valve section now, if the filter bypass has let it by. The shuttle pump pick-up screen may be plugged with whatever this material is, depending on where it came from(a common problem). My thoughts are that the oil cooler hoses are a possible source and I would replace them both. I'm not sure if the oil is filtered first before it goes through the cooler, or vice-versa, I'll have to check the manual. You can use a single wire hydraulic hose when getting new ones made up and pay particular attention to the hose length as this is a tight area to work in(front of rad). Do you have a working dash gauge(clutch pressure)? Phil
Wow Phil, You sure know you're 580b's! A week ago I had no idea what one was... I will be out at the land today to check over all of these things. I am having a hard time locating all the correct filters without ordering them. The machine is missing the backhoe, so I'll just call it a loader for now. When I went to look at it, the steering didn't work at all (it works now after adding 2 quarts of power steering fluid). The machine wouldn't move unless you warmed it up for a half hour. Then it slowly moved backwards and forwards... but just enough to get it to the trailer. We had to push it on with a big tractor instead. I bought a manual off of ebay for this, and spent half a day printing it and getting it into a 6 inch binder. It's been a life saver, but wow there is a lot to learn! Now I just have to find out where that shuttle pump pick-up screen is and how to clean it up. The transmission fluid is nice and clear, and right up to the top mark on the dipstick. I could probably change it, but I hear it takes about 10 gallons to fill back up. Ouch. Dustin
Welcome to the forum MasterSplinter. :usa Phil knows the B better than anyone here. You'll usually catch him here early in morning and late evenings. After 9 PM, forget it. He gets up early and kicks the rooster awake. You didn't answer his question, do you have a working clutch pressure gauge on the dash? Got to post all the info you can think of, then when Phil logs on, he can noodle through it. Oh, BTW, you need to make your 3rd post so you'll become a Junior Member. Then you can post a pic of your B.
Hey thanks guys... Lots of nice people on here it sounds like. I'll be needin your help! After changing "all" the fluids, I for Phils message about the shuttle dipstick and where it was located.... I looked and thought "this guy is nuts, there is nothing there"... I looked around for a good hour, then decided to start cleaning inside of the cab. Under 3 or 4 inches of packed down mud and dirt and oil and grease, there lies an orange dipstick for the shuttle. I put 4 gallons in and that seamed to put it up to the line. I fired it up and instantly it drove. It had more power too I think! Not sure how much it's suppose to hold... I have the 660 page manual for it, but I didnt see that fluid level yet. And to think... all I paid for this thing was 1000 bucks, and its only got 3~k hours on it.
I still get these: Posting Rules You may not post new threads You may post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts
Be patient MasterSplinter, takes a little time, but your status will change.
hey mastersplinter napa stores can cross reference your/case filters. if dont have in stock usually can have the next day. i just bought the trans filter a week ago so i remember its #1518.
case 580b Pics....
Picture one is the hydraulic filter... that was plugged. The hydraulics work great though, I was surprised. There must be a filter bypass? I am considering making a nicer counterweight out of concrete... Any idea what weight range I should go for? I heard the backhoe should weigh around 1800lb... so maybe 1000lb counterweight instead? Does anyone know where I could get a new filter housing for the hydraulic filter? The threads are cross threaded on mine pretty bad, Ive had it on and off twice but it takes about 5 minutes to line them up right. I dont know if it will go back together again the next time I change it.
more pics
The rear window is smashed and tape is holding it together. They want 170$ for the glass... I was wondering if anyone has ever put lexan or plexiglass in theirs? What thickness would you go, 1/4 inch enough? Sorry for all the questions!
Not sure about the counterweight question. Tach cables break often on these so the hour meter reads only the time that it's spinning. Yes, the filter you show is not the shuttle oil filter but the hydraulic oil filter. Likely material from piston packing. Best to ask Atcoequip for any in-depth hydraulic questions. Used hydraulic filter housings may still be out there. Lots of used parts suppliers out there. Some of these come off quite hard and the hex head gets worn off. Plexiglass works well for windows, use regular plexi, 1/4" is good. Don't ever wipe it with anything after installation, use a garden hose only. Keep the paper on it until it's in and use a carpenters hand saw very carefully to cut it. A 4 1/2" metal grinder will smooth the corners after cutting. Plexi will give you years of service and can be cut slightly smaller than the original glass for a fast install even with old hard rubber moulding. Front spindles are a weakness on these machines. Bearing bores get worn, spindles get worn, thrust bearings disintegrate. A real money pit. There was a mechanic here a while back that used ABS plumbing pipe, to sleeve the bore from top to bottom. Apparently it worked well for a set time. Phil
MasterSplinter, I have used both and Acrlyic (Plexiglass) and polycarbonate (Lexan). The acrlyic is terrible. It scratches easily , draws dust to the surface like a magnet and to top it off , it is really brittle at freezing temperatures. Polycarbonate is more expensive but it much more durable and doesn't get as much dust stuck to it like acrilyic. Also unlike acrilic when you clean it with a soft damp cloth you will get minimal scratches. Be sure to wash either one with a lot water or windshield cleaner before drying them. Actually I hated both, and have replaced them all except the rear one with glass. It is the next one to go! Glass is expensive but for me the usefull life of the plastics is too short. I wish I had used the money I spent for plastic and applied it to glass windows.
Thanks again for everyones help! I'm not sure if what I will do for replacing the window... I like that it lifts above your head for more ventilation though. Remember that the hoe is missing, so its just a loader now. Does anyone have a favorite junk yard in mind that has scrapped equipment? Maybe I could find a hydraulic filter housing there... or maybe it would be worse than the one I have. Still can't find much info on how heavy to make a counterweight. Maybe I'll start at 1000lb and make it so I can add to it.... The wheels are spinning (in my head)
MasterSplinter, I did a little research about your filter housing on the Case Parts website. That spin-on type filter doesn't show up in the 580B parts listing. I found it right away in the 580C listing. Part # D61903 HEAD ASSEMBLY Part # D61948 is the filter housing (the spin-on canister) If they are available it may be the easiest and cheapest way to go.
Regarding your question on 580B rear weight. The information I have seen on a 580B list a rear counterweight at 1400 lb., so you might want to plan to be able to add above your 1000 lb estimate to at least this amount.
TC relief valve Fellas, the 580 series prior to the C series had a Torque Converter relief valve right beside the main trans valve under the tank. If a shaving or other foreign material is lodged in the spool it will not close to allow TC charge pressure to build. Locate the narrow casting with a sender on top, remove the small plug with an allen wrench and install a 200 LB gage and start the engine. You should show about 30 - 40 lbs. If nothing, remove the valve, disassemble it and clean it and reinstall it. Also the clutch spool position is important, the spool should be set so that there is 3.100 inches from the center of the pin that slides in the support bracket to the center of the rear bolt holding that strap on. The clutch cam is on a eccentric bolt and can be turned to the proper setting by loosening the lock bolt on the other end of the bolt under the tank. Also Maximum High Idle is important so make sure all the throttle linkage is adjusted so the pump stop screw is going against the stop on the pump body
Found a parts guy online that says he has the hydraulic filter housing for $25 plus shipping. Sounds like a deal to me...
I replaced a side window with 1/8" Lexan, which worked OK, but 1/4 would be much better for the rear window. I wouldn't use Plexiglas - it shatters into sharp pieces if you hit it hard enough. Polycarbonate (Lexan, Tuffak, etc.) is a lot tougher, although it's a bit more flexible. You can actually bend Polycarb in a bending brake - I've made all sorts of useful things out of the stuff (try that with Plexiglas if you enjoy trips to the ER). Also, if you've got the $$, you might want to get the scratch-resistant version. MSC is a good source. One other thing - all plastics will eventually crack when subjected to vibration, even Polycarb. Best way to forestall this is to carefully sand the edges smooth after cutting it to fit. A slight bevel is even better. I use a handheld disk sander. Don't take the paper off until you've cut and sanded it. Have you figured out how the rubber seal works yet? There's a trick - let me know if you need help with that. Whatever you do, don't just cut it off - the old seal will work fine and the new stuff is really expensive!! Don't ever worry about asking too many questions here - that's what this forum is all about!! PG
regarding the filter canister. if cant get on line you should be able to go to the closest machine shop and have them re-thread it. it being aluminum should be easy and able to do while waiting. as for the front counter weight, i was told that les shwab will come out and fill the front tires with a water/anti freeze mixture. not alot of weight. probably max 60lbs a tire, 120lbs total weight added .
i have a 580bck with the extendahoe. im not sure what year it is. the serial number is 8758473. i was trying to finger out how to tell the year from the serial number. i had the local tire shop put water in my front tires with a tube as my tires were so filled with tiny wholes. is this ok or is it better to do the water in a tubless tire?
sorry guys, im a noob. hello all. i'll be bugging you guys and picking your brains occasionally. ive owned my case for about 2 1/2 years. i need brakes but am unsure how to check/change linings. any help on that will helpful. thanks in advance.
ill post pics as soon as the site will allow. be forewarned, she a bit rusty. i paid 2k for her from a hunting camp that was about to upgrade. i have a tall open cab and was wondering if anyone has manufactured doors or enclosed the cab totally on one of these.
what size battery does the 580bck with the 188 eng take. mine exploded on me yesterday and blew the side out of itself. this battery was in it when i bought it. it was a sealed typed battery so i could check the fluid level in it.
I have a case 580B that travels fine in forward but is weak in reverse. It will go in reverse as long as the backhoe is not on any sort of incline. The pressure reading is always 160-165psi in Neutral/Forward/Reverse. On the power shuttle control valve the manual says that you can add shim stock on the clutch pressure regulator plug (.0209 = 5psi, .0418 = 10psi) to change the pressure. Any thoughts? Where is the pump that supplies the feed for this? Thanks
Did you check the oil level in the shuttle exactly as the service manual specifies ?
Hi pardon me for intruding but i have a 580b ck not sure what year but i think its mid 70's with 33 backhoe it works great for an old machine, it seems to scream in reverse it works normal in forward, can anyone tell me why. i have changed the tranny fluid and filters. 2.Would anybody care to tell me the difference between the g159 and the g188 engine on my parts book the 188 shows prestolite distributor and the g159 show the autolite distributor i'm sure i have the g159 because of the stamp on the block and the distributor is prestolite, just pre planning for engine overhaul in the next year or so and would like to order the proper piston and sleeves and in ordering the bearing would i need standard bearings? if you would like to hear my backhoe i'm on you tube ''case 580b rebuild with model 33 backhoe part 4" not sure if its the proper link or not but i wrote the title manually. thanks casecarlos
I have the exact same sound in reverse on my 580B, struggling to find an answer to what it is. Any help appreciated.
i was just told it could be shuttle shift transmission
Thanks Carlos, I’m beginning to suspect it’s the reverse clutch pack in the shuttle. I’ve got a mate who is a Deisel mechanic coming to take a look this weekend I’ll let you know when I get a definitive answer.
That's great thanks Timbro can't wait. I wonder how much longer I have before it stops working completely?, will I still have forward?, will it just stop working in reverse?, will there be a warning before it stop all together?
can some one tell me why my case 580b backhoe stopped pulling can it be the clutch and pressure plate and if so can some one show me pictures of how to put a clutch and pressure plate in thanks
i have a case 580b ck backhoe and i have a car battery in mine and it works fine.
Hi, I'm the new owner of a580b. Have not located the serial number yet but did manage to unclog the tank fuel line. Now runs decent. I was interested in the earlier posts concerning shuttle drive issues as mine takes a while to warm up in order to move forward and reverse. I will be searching for the shuttle fluid dipstick and check back. Question? 1.Where can I find lower priced rear wheels 2. Easy priced brake pads
Welcome MasterSplinter it looks like everybody has answered your questions, there is a lot of knowledge here. I have a question though, the serial number tag you pictured where is it located?
I've found the shuttle dipstick (right in front of the shifter) and my oil is somewhat milky. Where are the 2 drain points?
Our 580b has a 12 volt Group 31 battery. This thread is of interest to me. Our 580b is starting to get increasingly sluggish, and the TC pressure is getting low. I'll check the fluid levels and see if anything comes up.
Mine has similar problem but pressure is fine although once clutch is pressed it drops to one third. I'll look for pressure regulator and oil level tommorow.
I was not able to do this today as i had to change hydraulic oil and filter, but going through manuals gave me strong impression that my backhoe loader is not 580ck, rather 580B. upgraded? I'm worried about my hydraulic clutch plates. I replaced original oil with UTTO one ( https://buysinopec.com/blogs/news/hytrans-compatible-oils-hy-tran-oil-substitute ), and i just found one thread ( https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=case&th=176973 ) where someone stated that it might dissolve/weaken plutch plates to the point that it will be gone completelly. Anyone have any experience with that ?
Hi I have question regarding my recently acquired 580B backhoe. It is weak driving forward and reverse. I checked the transmission fluid and found a milkshake. Please tell me if there is any hope for this transmission or is it destroyed from this condition very quickly. Also, is there a likely cause for this problem? How does water get into the transmission? Thank you
Change the oil and filter and see what happens.
Have you seen this before? I will have to find and fix the cause of this issue. Does the transmission fluid go thru a cooler in the radiator, like a lot of cars?
Yes there is a cooler in the bottom tank of radiator. But if there is no oil in coolant then there is another way for water to get in trans.
Thank you. I want to drain and fill the transmission in my 580B. I have a manual. The manual lists SAE 90 above 32 degrees and SAE 80 below 32 degrees. Do I need to follow that to the letter? I am seeing 80-90 gear oil for sale at tractor supply. I am thinking maybe that would be good. Please tell me what you would recommend.
Which one are you wanting to drain and refill: the four speed transaxle or the forward n reverse torque tube?
Hi I plan to drain the fluid that came up milky on the dipstick that is behind the shifter. I think this is the four speed transaxle. I found a drain all the way back at the rear end of the drivetrain. I plan to remove and replace the cartridge filter in front of the radiator. I have not opened the drain yet. I will know for sure that it is the one I want if the milky stuff comes out there. The dipstick in front of the shifter has nice looking fluid on it. I am considering draining that later maybe and filling it with hytran just to be sure it is not being operated with something that doesn't belong in there. I have seen info online that leads me to believe that I can drain the two front drains to empty the torque converter and the shuttle and then fill both at the single dipstick. I just got this tractor, and it seems weak when driving. It seems to be slipping somewhere when it encounters a slight hill. I have seen information online suggesting that this might be improved if the pickup in the shuttle was cleaned. Do you agree? Is this a big project? Thank you.
The transaxle needs gear oil 80/90 will be fine. The filter in front of radiator is for shuttle transmission dipstick in front of shifter
Thank you. So there is no filter for the transaxle, right? I'm glad you told me that.
Right
You might want to clean the screen that is on the bottom of (#54) the suction tube.