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Case 580C Accident – BRAKES!?

GeorgiaJoe580 ยท 2020-10-06 08:17

Good morning everyone! Well, I managed to roll my 1970 580C right into a ditch this past weekend. The brakes (which I thought I had fixed) just wouldn't stop it from rolling backwards. I replaced the lines, both master cylinders, both slave cylinders, and checked everything using the service manual. All appeared to be fine at the time. It stops well on a flat surface but the brake pedal is almost useless on an incline. My question is, how good are the brakes on this thing supposed to be? Should they bring it to a screeching halt at speed, or were they never intended to be that useful? This is my first backhoe and I understand that it's OLD, so I'm not entirely sure what my expectations here should be. Is there a way (perhaps modifications, etc.) to make this thing less sketchy to drive? My land is not flat. Any advice would be most appreciated!

Replies11
  1. #1alrman2020-10-06 17:01

    The brakes should indeed cause the wheels to lock up. You have not mentioned inspecting the actual brake linings?? If they are coated in oil due to leaking oil seals, or are rusted up - this affects the machine braking efficiency.

  2. #2outlawspeeder2020-10-06 21:53

    1st I hope you are ok. IT looks like it might have been a fun ride. hahaha 2nd I did the master and slaves (hope it still ok to use those terms) but I also pulled the brake pads. I had an oil leak. The brake part ... the round part with the 4 balls (puck) was a mess. The puck has two springs and one was broken. This means as the tractor moved it was eating itself. Two of the balls were out of place. This means that when the brakes are applied and balls force the sides of the puck out it would not due to being out of position. I would recommend pulling them if you want good brakes. I unbolt the slave and set them on the frame rails. The parking brake pins were rusted and was a pain to remove too. If you pull them, the inside part of the brake has a seal for the bearing that is held in place by one flat tip screw. If you find oil in the brake the bearing seal should be replaced. Look at the link at the end of this post for parts numbers. I cleaned everything with harbor crap parts washer and then cleaned the hf crap off with brake cleaner. The hardest part was getting the bottom bolt, mine broke and I had to machine out what was left. The other side I didn't pull apart, only cleaned it. The big thing is make sure all the parts move inside there. The top stud pull up on a Y. The Y on my was rusted and was not moving as it should. Also remember that if you are pressing the brakes and the clutch disengage switch is working (above the right brake pedal) ... no brakes and no engine braking... you get to free roll. HeavyEquipmentForums

  3. #3stinky642020-10-07 01:54

    were they adjusted all the way up? how high were your pedals? if the star wheel adjusting nut is not making contact w/adjuster rod the auto adjust is inop....another thing to consider is your shuttle cut-out switches on the pedal linkage, if the shuttle doesn't cut out those brakes aren't going to stop anything....had a couple of almost pooped moments before I replaced those.....

  4. #4Vetech632020-10-07 08:12

    That backhoe looks like its playing hide and seek. Its more than likely an adjustment or mechanical issue.

  5. #5Tinkerer2020-10-07 09:15

    Welcome to HEF, GeorgiaJoe !

  6. #6stinky642020-10-08 01:36

    Hide and seek..that's just rotten man..the poor guy's in a ditch and probably did poop a little on that ride..... Sorry Georgia Joe...

  7. #7fast_st2020-10-08 03:51

    I have an older mechanical brake system, uses the drum/puck style brakes, I need to change out some parts, the bands don't really grip anymore. Glad you are okay, also glad it wasn't a rolling hill someplace.

  8. #8outlawspeeder2020-10-08 10:10

    Fast_st Are you buying new or recovering what you have? I did a cover on one of my drums and it was not hard. wish I would have made a vid to share.

  9. #9franklin22020-10-10 10:41

    It should stop with the shuttle switch not working. Mine has the switch in the dash to activate/de-activate that shuttle on/off feature. I got the shuttle switch on the brake pedal working and I hate it. I leave that feature off. When I used it with that shuttle on/off working, I would be climbing a hill and want to hit the brakes, what happens first thing? The switch cuts the shuttle off. So then you instantly start drifting backwards when you were going forward. What do you do then? You panic and let up on the brake pedal. What happens then? The shuttle re-engages and the tractor pops a wheelie.

  10. #10fast_st2020-10-12 07:48

    I have had really good luck with that brake lining material from mcmaster carr, I think all my pivots on the dog bones are worn out as well, where it squeezes the band around the drum and likely slathered with rust. I think the ball and spring may be frozen too, time for maintenance!!

  11. #11DMiller2020-10-12 11:38

    Time to Overhaul brakes.