I am a FNG so be nice. I bought a Case 580C that has been sitting for some years. The past owner bought it, did some work on it, and then let it sit, about 10 years. Before I picked it up he got it running with a external fuel tank. The tank was full of leftover biofuel I think. It had turned into what is best described as tar. I got that cleaned out and now I am getting ready to put it all back together. Waiting on filters. I rebuilt one pad actuator. The seal was really bad. It would leak down on its owns as soon as it was up. I am refilling the Hyd with Traveller Premium Universal Tractor Trans/Hydraulic. I have to do a steering actuator but what fluid goes back in?? The same? Also if there is anything I should look at after it has been sitting? The wiring is a mess, but the pins are tight front and back. Controls for the front are very sloppy, the back controls are good. Tires are new, still has the size on the treads. It has no brakes! From what I've read, the brakes on these suck? Can they be fixed? Where I need to use this, I have to go down a hill with a deep drop off at the bottom. Lot of questions but I am a FNG. Any help would help.
Welcome to HEF, Outlawspeeder ! Is your reference to actuator actually a hydraulic cylinder ? There is a lo of information in past threads about 580ck/C's. Do a search and you will find most evrything you have asked. If you need a service manual go here and download it. ----> https://www.minnpar.com/manuals5.as...LS&SSSFName=CASE 580CK MODEL C SERVICE MANUAL
Thanks I am just an old aircraft mechanic.
I figured you were a former service member. The FNG was the indicator. You aren't just a former aircraft mechanic. That is an accomplishment to be proud of. A&P ?
Welcome to HEF: To answer your question about power steering fluid the same oil goes in it as the hydraulics. Any seals will dry out from sitting long periods of time so you will probably have more leaks. Don't be surprised if the stabilizer cylinders still leak down a bit. The valve doesn't have tight tolerances and will leak by the spool. That being said there is a lock check to keep them from leaking up allowing the machine to leak down when it is raised.
Tinker Skipped AP became a flight engineer on C5. 9/11 ended up at HQ Scott afb for my last 4. Coy That was the the one I already fixed. Finally got to do some digging tonight. Runs strong for this old of an rig. The front can lift its self. The back can bust roots about 3 4 inches. Got to fix the brakes next. It getting old quick having to drop the bucket or a pad to stop. Hahah No guild in either rt or lt. I am sure if I put some in, I'll see it on the ground.
My 480c didn't have any brakes either. Some people crawl under there and work on them but I am getting old too, and so I attacked it from up top. Mine has a full cab and floor, so I pulled the floor out. That was a real pain, but I am glad I did it. It's so much easier to work on with the floor out, and I could see and get to all the hand brake linkage, which was all froze up and affecting the regular brake system. I was able to easily take the wheel cylinders off and rebuild them, but if you have the money I recommend getting new ones, they are not too bad on ebay. Speaking of that, you can get rebuild kits for the cylinders and everything else fairly cheap off ebay. I haven't put the floor back in, and it's been about 3 years, I have been using it without the floor. But when I go to put it back in i think I am going to slice it in two or more pieces and weld tabs on them to tie them together to make it easier to get them in and out.
I had a "***" moment Friday. I jut finished digging out a stump and I went to move the 580. Did you all know if all the steering fluid leaks out you have no steering? hahaha I now have two steering cylinders rebuilt and painted. I also pulled the rod and striated it. IT was rubbing on one of the lines linking to two cylinders. Got it before it wore though it. I need to get two rod ends and put it all back together. By the way you can't get parts for these things on Sunday. Auto parts stores are clueless but could make a hell of a killing if they carried some of the rebuild and needed to operate parts.
Hey FNG (??) I did brakes on my 580C few years ago. I suggest you get a service manual. It is very helpfull. Now I need to rebuild master cylinder and replace brake lines. The job would be easyer if you remove the wheels for better access. Better replace the axle seals while your at it!
Welcome to HEF,Tony !
wy thank ya! I hope I can contribute and share, etc.
Got the manual. It came with it. The past owner was a Mil air craft maintainer too. Uuuggg I have been rebuilding cylinders non stop. Dipper Bucket and the front bucket yesterday. A/W seals. I order all the ones I haven't changed. Should have order the full set. haha When I bought this 580C it came with some and the reason I didn't order them. It seems like every gland nut inner seal is just falling apart. About the time I get the last one done I figure it will be time for the hoses to go. Ether way I think I might have done a complete Hyd change by now. Every time I pull one apart I loss about a gallon. Next is the brakes. Is there anyone out there that sell Brake Master Cylinder and Slave Cylinder rebuild kits or I am I stuck with the 200 - 300 dollar bill for those? Also what fluid goes in these? Same as the Steering and Hyds?
Hey outlaw: the cylinders are always a pain but if you use a good quality oil then they will last longer. The brake master cylinders take DOT3 fluid and they’re a pain to get out as you probably can tell. You can usually find parts fairly cheap on line brokentractor.com is a good place. There are others like eBay just do some research. Do you have a parts manual, if so that’ll help a lot.
IDK if anyone mentioned Dale Weiss at Tractor Stuff.. he has a bone yard full of Case machines.
Tony, don't waste your time rebuilding master cylinders,they're probably smoked internally...find new ones online for cheap...as far as axle seals don't forget the small diff lock seal inside r/side trans axle,that's where you're gonna get the oil soaked brakes from,not the actual axle seal,unless it's REALLY bad
I get most of the stuff for my 480c from ebay. Here's a wheel cylinder complete. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Whee...2lfP~4g:sc:ShippingMethodStandard!22844!US!-1 Here's the master cylinder, it takes two. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Mast...476240&hash=item4b70e71e81:g:A3IAAOSwMFVfRRBz Here's a rebuild kit for the master. https://www.ebay.com/itm/L32129-CAS...168573&hash=item1a21525d8b:g:lWEAAOSwux5YRucG
So one of the cylinders I rebuilt is leaking from the rod to nut. I pulled it back apart last night. It uses the V type seal and it was pointed in the right way. (spread the V to the pressure /inside. When I pull the old one out it was in small pieces so I didn't have anything to go off of. Is there a backing or something else that need to go in there? The nut didn't slide off easy?? The groove had some crud in it?? Would that cause it to lead. I can not find a break down that shows this in detail.
From the service manual.
A much better image from the parts book !
Sorry the IPB is for the leveling cylinder. I used old seals.... Not sure if the age had is the cause of the leaking leveling jack cylinder That IPB for the brakes is very helpful. When I bought the 580 it came with some seals I have one rebuild kit for the brakes hahaha
What is an IBP ? Leveling cylinder ? Like a stabilizer or outrigger as they are referred to ? Every hydraulic cylinder has a specific name depending on it's location and function. Can you post a picture of the cylinder ?
Illustrated Parts Breakdown stabilizer cylinder Sorry I am also working on a RV. hahaha
For the brakes... first pull the floor out. On mine with a cab and heat, I slotted the floor panel to be able to remove the floor without removing the heater hose. Use a hole saw to cut 2 access holes through the fiberglass dash panel on the left side to get to the Master cylinder bolts. Replace all the components, Master cylinders ,wheel cylinders, hoses. After renewing a 40 year old brake system you will be chasing other gremlins and not even thinking about the brakes. After piecemeal mine for a couple years I bit the bullet and used aftermarket part with great results.
Sounds familiar... I just bought a 79 580c. Brakes worked, then they didn't. E brake works though. The cylinders are 75 to 99 bucks each if you search around. Google the part number and it will come up. My steering also failed... blew a line from the valve to the cylinder. I haven't even got this thing to my shop yet. Hopefully I will tomorrow
Hi fellas.. just incase u haven’t heard the name before, Dale Weiss at Tractor Stuff is a very valuable resource for new/used parts & info.. THATS IF u can getm on the phone.. I found email is the best way to get a response.. good luck w your projects..
TractorpartsASAP has the brake cylinders for 75 bucks... I'll be getting a couple for mine. The slave cylinder is 16 bucks. I believe I've seen it cheaper, but not sure it would be worth it after shipping.
Dale @ tractorstuff told me his site was down but his phone still works.. 1800-428-8183
Order master and slaves today. I opened the caps on the ones installed... One was full of rust the other has oil but is more like gear oil. Need to find a parking brake lever also. Without paying upward of 75 dollars...
What's wrong with the lever you have? cant you just free it up or is it damaged??I freed mine up with a lot of thrust/pb blaster and lots of manual back and forth........the kicker is I have never used it....Even on an incline,just put the bucket down or use one of the stabilizers as a brake....may not be OSHA approved,but if it works..........
The top was cut off and is missing. If replacement is going to be >50 the bucket or stab will work for me too. I have never liked to walk away from any machine with anything off the ground.
I rebuilt my master cylinders Using part L32129 from Amazon for $35 each.I had to use a brake hone to clean up the bore. I ended up using 1 and 1/2 sets of stones and the pits didn't really completely go away but I went ahead and reassembled them anyway and they appear to not leak and they do build pressure. The slave cylinders were to far gone and new ones are cheap. So it cost me about 85-95 to rebuild the masters and 50 for the slaves. Aftter I was finished I found a kit on sale for 120 with all 4 pieces. So was it worth rebuilding, nope it actually cost me more and they are probably not as good. By the way you can find a brake hose that will fit on Amazon for $10, sunsong 2203082, it's not listed for the 580 but it will fit.
I was looking for the # on the hose. Found a 15" (too long). Thank you My brake cylinders were really bad. I was chipping rust out of the bottom and still couldn't find the opening... For 160 it is just easier and it is done. Some of the work I have to do in at the bottom of a hill with a 10 foot drop off. The thought of getting this down in that ditch is scary as hell.
Found the master cylinders for $60 each on trupar.com using bendix number 2225119. I ended up getting both master cylinders and slave cylinders for $150 total as a set, though. Got some brake tube as well, you might want to consider doing the hard lines as well.
Flight Engineer on old FRED huh? Awesome We worked on IR systems F4 Phantom II from '87 to '94. Good luck to you on the Case.
I use mine. It took a lot of work to free up the whole parking brake system. It can make the regular system hang up. Even though I have rebuilt many of the hydraulic cylinders, they all will leak down, some faster than others. I would hate to have my bucket buried in the dirt to hold the tractor, and then a couple days later is finally leaks down enough to were the tractor starts drifting down the hill. Parking brake is good extra insurance. Or a chunk of wood in the front of the tire. Whatever works.
What is kind of steel are the pins made out of? Are they chromed? Hot rolled? Cold Roll? Harden? Same for the bushings? Having my own shop I can make these a lot cheaper than I can buy these if they are just hot rolled steel? Bucket drive Pivot Pin Bucket Link 38.1mm OD x 338.14mm L 1.5" x 13.3125984" Bushing 38.41mm ID x 47.63mm OD x 31.75mm L 1.5122047" x 1.8751969" x 0.85629921" Cyl to arm Bucket to arm Pin 44.45mm OD x 370.84mm L 1.75" x 14.6" Bushing 44.68mm ID x 57.15mm OD x 19.05mm L 1.7590551" X 2.25" x .75
The pins and bushings for the cylinders are heat treated.