Hello everyone, it’s been a while. Here goes, because of the impossible for me to fix brakes, we haven’t used our Case 580C for about 5 years. It hasn’t been started or anything. It has been covered with an old pool cover. So, before I get professional help (for the backhoe not me) I would like to make sure it starts, anything I must do before trying to start it or just wing? Thanks for any advice. Ron
You'll be dam lucky if it does.. CHECK THE OIL.. if u didn't shut off the fuel, chances are good, the front seals in the inj. pump let go & filled the crankcase up w/ fuel.?? You know u should drain all the fuel out of the tank & change the filters..?? "I would" loosen the side cover screws on the inj. pump & let that old fuel drain out & loosen the lines AT the injectors, to let the old fuel that's been in the steel lines, pump out.. OR loosen them at the pump & let gravity drain them.. Make sure the sh-off lever is in the run position or make sure it has power to the solenoid, if its an electric shut-off.. & hold the throttle to wide open & give'r a go.. Good luck..
Thank you pumpguy. I’ve been reading many of your posts over the years and you are one of the many great members that make this forum work so well. I checked the engine oil and it is right at the full mark on the dipstick. I’ll change the oil and diesel and fuel filters and maybe flush the fuel lines like you said, if I can and then give’r a go. Thanks again. Ron
I wouldn't change the oil and filter until it's running and warmed up and worked an hour. Check the drain plug by loosening it until you get a couple drops, if there's no water, just oil, then the oil is fine. Check the hydraulics, shuttle reservoirs also, you don't want to get the hydraulic oil mixed up with water either.
Thank you Delmer. The first thing that happened was when I took the engine cover off a bunch of acorns fell out.
5 years setting, I would be tempted to pop the injectors out and pour a little oil in each cylinder if it isn't too much trouble. Then you spin it over easily with them still out, no compression easy turning while the fuel system purges and gets primed.
Thanks check, but with the loader bucket down and the arm going across the engine opening I don't think I can do all that.
Personally I would check fluids and crank it up if the exhaust was covered the engine shouldn't be full of water if it has been wet well its trash anyways I have pulled things out of a 20 year vacation in the weeds and started right up on the other hand sometimes sitting over the winter causes trouble never know until you try
Thanks Jonas302, I will drain the fuel and change filters because that fuel is a lot older than 5 years. btw is diesel fuel from a Wawa gas station ok and do I need an additive? Thanks Ron
Check air filters and air intake for critters and critter residue.
Hi Ron and all you "wish I were a heavy duty equipment mechanics" like me and are having fuel related problems and don't have a clue how to fix it "like me' there is a good old boy in south Carolina known as the pump guy.he took the time to walk me through a pump fix and overhaul on a case 580c super helpful would highly recommend him for any fuel promlems
Hi everyone It started right up, diesel engines are amazing. I changed the fuel, I couldn’t do the fuel filters because the shut off valve doesn’t shut off (on the list) found out after I put the new fuel in. I checked all the things you guys said. The transaxle is dry, I guess that’s why my brakes could never work because the seals are leaking, now to find someone to do them and the seals. Thanks everyone. Ron
Way ta go Nova.. NOW the fun begins.. & the money starts flyin'.. Have fun..
Hey there pumpguy from sunny sc... looks like you are still in the state... i may have some work for you . is your email still the same?????
Thanks pumpguy wish I could send you my brakes. Ron
Hi It’s begun. After dumping over a gallon of 68 hydraulic fluid into the power shuttle the backhoe was finally able to move. The first pressing issue is one of the swing cylinders is pouring out fluid. Does anyone know if this can be repacked without removing it or does it have to come out, and where’s a good place to get seal kits. As always thank you
EPS STORE DOT COM.. for the seal kit. IDK about the procedure..
Swing the hoe slightly away from the cylinder that is leaking; remove the pin at the rod end of the leaking cylinder; look for any lock screws around the gland & remove; you will need an adjustable pin gland removal tool to remove the gland; you may need to loosen one of the hoses at the back of the cylinder to be able to withdraw the rod / piston assy; Then you will need something to hold the rod, so you can undo the bolt/cushioning plunger retaining the piston - (using 4-6' of cheater pipe on a 1"dr breaker bar) .....easy peasy
Hi guys and thank you I do have a gland nut wrench and was able to spin the gland nut a little, there was no set screw. Trying to get that pin out looks like fun. Ron