While using my 580C the enginr idle will increase and will not slow down. When I pull the shut off it will continue to idle very fast. Eventually it will slow down and shut off but it takes quite a bit of time. When I re-start it it will idle fine untill I try to do something with it and it starts idling fast again. I'm assuming it's a problem with the pump, but am not sure if it will have to be replaced?
I personally would not run it as there could be a possibility of the governor going wide open and the egnine could be destroyed. I am thinking there could be damage to the governor caused by a failed coupling ring causing what you describe. Hopefully the pumpguy will chime in with his thoughts and a more expert opinion.
With a Roosa Master/Stanadyne injection pump? 3 screws holding the top cover on? The governor cage has come apart...FORGET ABOUT the "flex ring"..your in the FINAL STAGES of a complete "rod thru the block" !!! Don't use it anymore.. Get the pump rebuilt and use the updated EID weight retainer and you wont have to see this problem again..
I am a fairly capable mechanic and would like to attempt to rebuild this myself. I have the complete service manual for the backhoe, but am wondering if there is a service manual available for the injection pump which would guide me through the process. It's a 1977 Roosa Master DBGFCC431-58AJ and the Case number is A-148069. Also, as I live in northern Minnesota there isn't many parts businesses available to me. Is there a reputable company I can order the parts through online?
On-line is questionable..Unless your a "dealer".. USDIESEL is good. BUT there are afew choices in Minnesota..in Burnsville, ST. Cloud, ST. Paul and Thief Rivers Falls, all have fuel injection shops. Seeing you provided the pump #'s..I'll see what I can do about getting you a "pump breakdown".. [wink] MOST IMPORTANTLY..you want a KIT> 24371 comes with all the seals and gaskets...and then..an EID WEIGHT RETAINER, P#>29111..BUT the EID WONT come with the TIMING LINE ON IT..UNLESS you tell your supplier you NEED IT ON THERE..and he/she may or may not scribe it on the new weight retainer.. You'll have to give them your pump#'s and ask "SPECIFICALY" for them to do it..
I watched a dude testing my injector pump. They hook up lines and test all the pressures etc. and it's pretty cool. The part I liked was the clickedy clack hammer noise that you hear on a diesel engine, just without the engine noise. He ran it at several speeds etc. Some shops will test your injectors also for free if you send them with the pump. I got to see an injector work with the tip exposed. It just puffs out a fine cloud of exploded fuel. Some pumps requires special tools and torque settings. One nut was torqued to something like 16 in/lbs. I would not try to do it myself even with a manual. This is not like your pump, but this is what mine looked like when first taken apart.
The clickety-clack IS "WAY KOOL"...Most folks don't understand that it actually comes for the injectors, opening and closeing and not from the pump.. BTW Bowen..check your PM.
Pumpguy, Maybe you can confirm this; I was talking to a diesel injector shop 30 years ago. He mentioned the Roosa Master pump was installed on the GM 350 diesels in cars. He showed me a ring of white plastic that was cracked and said it was the governor retaining ring and it was why a LOT of the 350 engines had failed. He then showed me the metal ring that replaced it. He said the Roosa pump was installed where the carb normally was, that the heat from the engine cooked the plastic until it failed. He said the Roosa installed on a tractor was hung on the side of the block and never got cooked like the GM piece. Is that true, or was he giving me a line?
It SOUNDS GOOD, in theory..they ALL go bad..Some faster than others. The 6.5L is another good example..the PMD gets cooked because its sitting in the valley..they moved it to the firewall..for air..
Thanks.
First of all I want to thank every one for the awsome advise. I need to get started on this asap as I own a resort and use the tractor to move docks and "go figure" the lake keeps coming up. I have found these parts on ebay and was wondering if anybody has had success ordering these parts this way. Also as far as scribing a new timing mark, I read somewhere that you can transfer the timing mark from the old failed ring cage to the new one. Is this true. If I did order this through ebay I am not sure if it would be possible to contact the right party and have the mark scribed for me.
The timing mark "can be transferred"..BUT we are talking about very close degrees..I GUESS you can take up the "slack" by moving the pump on its slots if you have to.. I'm NOT TRYING to scare you by no means..I just think you'll be MILES AHEAD if your pressed for time [water] if you let someone else do it. Another thing that worrys me is the "cam screw tool" have you given any thought to it? IF THAT SUCKER BREAKS..[using the wrong tool] your gonna be in a "world without love" and an inexperienced person will destroy a pump housing, getting it out.
Tricky... Everyone has a pump rebuild kit. Some send you a bag of parts with no identification at all. The misc. washers and seals may work and look similar but it will leave you wondering "is this the correct part?" Try to find one that shows an actual picture for all the parts that is included in the kit. Then count the items... Other parts may be bad that is not in the kits and these can be expensive. Mine is a CAV pump and the kit I bought was missing a seal and did not include the blades; these are optional variations for the kits. The pump/cams/lobes etc can have loose motion and I would have had no idea if this was normal or bad.
This is somewhat entertaining. Check out this 1st dude that seems to be in the middle of a rebuild. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RuD7OxQXY_Y Now look at a pump shop with one on a test stand. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=311arZQFqG4 If anything is wrong they may have to take it back apart to find the problem. Neither of these may be applicable to the current pump being worked on, but they do provide insight to what is involved. They may charge more than you want to pay, but it does take them several hours to tear them down, clean the parts, replace all the parts and then test the unit before you re-install it.