With the right-side Carrier removed can the Side Gear Assembly be slid off the cross shaft to get to A49795 small seal??? Thanks Bob
Thread title a little deceiving but, you may be able to remove that diff lock seal without removing the side gear. Can try a long thin drywall screw or two to penetrate then pull seal or even a small pick between shaft and seal may get lucky. Reinstall with long thin punch slow and even till it seats. Seal not very beefy just be careful. May or may not work on CK but looks same setup as C.
The diff lock seal can be removed without dismantling the carrier, side gear & bull gear. There is not enough space to use screws as described by Stinky64. I use a tool I made from an old engine shut off cable - hammered flat & formed a small hook on the end. Push the tool through the seal lip, turn 90 degrees & pull. To install the new seal, find some tubing the correct size & tap in the new seal. It's not uncommon to see two seals, fitted in there.
Thanks - The previous owner had just replaced the A49795 which leaks my concern is he did some damage to the sealing surfaces and knowing his work this is possible. Was hopping with both carries removed the diff would drop or could raise up and maybe cock to one side enough to clear the Bull gear so I could slide the Side Gear Assembly out and inspect and polish the seal surfaces. Just not sure this is possible??? Bob
FACT: older style fine thread dry wall screw is thin enough to remove diff lock seal on 580C, hence my answer about that seal not being too beefy, fu@ked mine up the first time and reinstalled the way I described the 2nd time. Once dislodged facilitated removal with small 90 degree pick as also described.
Thanks: Yes would be fine just pulling and replacing - believe there was damage done last time and would be great if removing carriers and manipulate ring gear makes it possible to pull shaft??? Bob
I haven't done one for quite a while, but from memory, the bull gear does need to be moved pretty much completely out of the way, to remove the side gear. I'm sure you'll let us know how you go.
Definitely the bull must be removed, make a tool as ALR described, I sacrificed an old right angle Oring pick, slip it under the edge turn it 90 degrees and use side cutters off the end of the shaft to lever it out. Early, it was possible to put two seals in as the seals were flat, later seals the spring loaded part of the rubber seal stuck outside the metal cage and another seal would but up against the other seal and I always thought it would interfere with the sealing action if a second was supplied. The new style seal I feel is good in standard installation with one seal. Going in there with a sheet metal screw seems to me like a good way to damage the shaft. As ALR described, I would use tubing to drive the new seal and I used a hose clamp on the tube to gauge how far I was seating the seal, setting the clamp before I removed the old seal.
Went with plan B - not knowing what was done in the past. Extra 20 min unbolted remove bull gear and popped out shaft. The newer style seal was driver hard into the Bushing making it useless - original DOA seal driven against that. One new seal with spring will fix this mess.
I'm working on this same problem right now. But the machine is 25 miles away so I've been trying to make tools to replace that seal. Or is it seals? Right now, whatever seal (or seals?) are in there, its only about half an inch. I found a piece of exhaust pipe that fits over the inner shaft and inside the side gear. I marked it where it touches the seal and its nowhere near an inch. I got my eyeball up there, and I can see it, but I havnt got my pick ground down small enough to hook it. I'm curious if anyone knows the correct depth of the seal. If there's a stack of them I get out, and I can get the new one I, I would like to get the right depth. I really don't want to pull the top cover and bull gear, but maybe I need to??
Anyone know how deep that seal is, how deep its supposed to be?
Got it.