My thumb is about to come off from priming the pump, and still no signs of fuel at the injectors. The inlet line going to the injection pump has fuel but the return line just drops. Does the injection pump have a filter or screen to clean? Cat 416b backhoe. How hard is it to replace the injection pump? I know I have to deal with timing the engine, but if it's not too complicated and not require removing other parts I thinking to do it. Thank you
Needs moved to Backhoe area Post your serial number I have a 416C and had issue priming do to a leaky seal on the fuel pump line, but replacing the seal it came right up. Others will come in but I didn't worry about the return line, just the pump. Key would need to be ON for fuel to flow
What mdl inj pump.??
That’s not how it works. That’s not how any of this works. Let’s take a step back before we go crazy changing an injection pump.
I haven't checked if there is power to the injection pump. I check it in the AM. No fuel coming out even when cranking the engine. All injectors lines were removed. How do I check if the injection pump any good? Is it the pressure test?
U haven’t said what kinda pump it is.!!
Very well could have an air leak at any one of those dried out fuel line grommets. Did you change the fuel filter?
A seizeamaster.
There is voltage on the pump. Ignition on while priming and still no drop of fuel coming out of the injectors.
What does that mean?
Roosamaster was the original OEM of that distributor style, DB series fuel pump. Rather revolutionary at the time. It made the small mass produced, affordable high speed diesel a thing. Made diesel tractors a thing. Then, Stanadyne came along. They are fuel lubricated. If any thing goes wrong,…. Seize they do. So, we nicknamed them seizeamaster. And made a living fixing them. That’s my story and I’m sticking to it.
How about when you crank the engine? You can have voltage at the pump, but unless the solenoid clicks, nothing is happening. Does the solenoid on the pump click? Can you feel it click?
I am a lonely wolf. No pack around to help. I check that once I have someone else to turn the ignition while I am listening/feeling the solenoid. The top of the pump looks like it has a cover bolted in. Is the the solenoid? Is the solenoid replaceable? Without removing the pump? Thank you
There will be a wire connected directly to the solenoid. That’s it
Don’t mess with the cover. There is a magic screw under that cover that you don’t want to touch.
You can run a jumper wire 12v+ to check it by your lonesome.
1st, u r NOT going to get fuel out of the injectors by hand pumping the primer.. The primer is to fill the filter and to push fuel TO THE PUMP INLET.. The only way to get fuel at the injectors is to crank the engine with the starter.. U CAN run a jumper wire from the battery + to the solenoid where the other wire is.. Be sure to turn the ignition OFF, THEN TOUCH THE SOLENOID with your + wire & listen for the CLICK.. If the solenoid is sticking, u might be able to free it up by touching the post several times.. on-off, on-off..u get the drift..
One other thing.. U can remove the line off the top cover on the pump.. THEN, remove all the fittings..(9/16 wrench) If done correctly, you’ll be looking at a hole in the to of the pump.. VERIFY the solenoid is clicking.. Then take the line and fittings out.. NOW loosen the lines AT THE INJECTORS, as many as u can get to.. PULL THE THROTTLE WIDE OPEN AND CRANK THE ENGINE. A couple bursts of 10 seconds cranking should get u some results..
Lol.. we all had our nicknames for RoosaMaster pumps.. My favorite is: RoosterMasher.. I still use it today.. it’s a hit with the “old timers”.. lol
That was nice of you to write all that out, pumpguy.
Thanks for clarification. They are two wires on top of the pump. A yellow and a black.
The 201 black should be ground.
One of the studs will have a ground strap going to one of the screws that hold the top cover down.. THATS THE GROUND — .. If I had to guess, I’d say the yellow is +.. but I’m not there.
Ain't that the one where the coupler just falls apart and plugs the return fitting with mouse poop?
Yup.. THATS WHY I toldm to pull the return connector (all the fittings) off the top of the pump.. between making sure the solenoid clicks and pulling the connector, unless it’s seized, she’ll start spitting fuel..
He autta been done by now.. Unless he can’t find a 9/16 wrench.. lol
Is there a reason for removing all the fittings on top of the pump? Isn't the line fitting sufficient or do you think it could be clogged? I disconnected the hot wire(yellow) then turned the ignition on and by touching the pump I hear the solenoid clicks. I did get some fuel out injectors this time, but still no start. I think I burned the starter as there is no cranking now. I give it another try this weekend and see. Thanks again
The 1st fitting in the pump/ the last fitting u would take out, get clogged w “stuff” and creates pressure inside the pump.. NO FUEL OUT= NO FUEL IN..
Now it's the second time I got it to start, but once it shutdown then there is starting again. It revs nice, and all hydraulics equipment are moving.
Has it started starting AFTER u took the fitting on the top cover out.?? If yes, it probably doesn’t have to many “revs nice” left in her.. Once it’s starts surging, shut it down and pull the pump..
Took the top cover fitting off. Cleaned it. It has what it looked like plastic check valve. Cranked the ignition, but no fuel came out from the top fitting of the pump. It came out from the water separator as I also removed the return fitting. Put everything back. Used manual pump, and started the engine. I try it again without the fitting and see. Thanks
I wouldn’t take it out.. that fitting is the only thing keeping u from buying an engine.. If it keeps clogging up and shutting the engine down, the pump needs to be looked at.. And like I said, once it starts surging, shut it down.. or it’ll shut itself down..& u won’t like how that happens.. Start saving your nickels and dimes now..
What fitting were referring to? I thought you suggested removing the line on top cover of the pump and injectors lines then crank it. Maybe I misunderstood. I think I also have some electrical issues. I did a continuity test from negative of the battery to the two wires of the pump and both have continuity. Which means they are both grounded? Also, from negative Terminal of the battery to the hot side of the starter and it seems grounded as well. If I understand it correctly, I have a short somewhere.
What I was referring to was the fitting on the top cover.. Don’t just take off the line, that won’t show u much if anything.. You have to unscrew the fittings on the top cover and try to start it.. This won’t help with your electrical problem but it will tell u if your pump is on the way out.. Does your top cover have 1 or 2 wires going to it.? If it’s 1, then that’s your hot side, 12v.. & the ground (-) is going thru the pump.. there should be a ground strap attached to the other stud.. If it has 2, then 1 is hot(12v) and the other is negative. I was under the impression that you were going to take out that fitting in the top cover because the engine started.. That fitting is kinda, a safety device.. it’ll shut the engine down to let u know when it’s time to o/h the inj pump.. That’s why I said, it’s the only thing keeping your engine in 1 piece..
If both wires are disconnected and you measured zero resistance on both wires means the solenoid is shorted out and needs replacement Now if even one of the wires was connected when measuring, then disconnect and measure again
A good solenoid will measure low ohms . It might show continuity.
The solenoid might be shorted. I set the multimeter to continuity test(wifi symbol) and it beeps when the two terminals on the pump were touched. Setting it to ohm, and it reads 3.4 ohm. Both wires were disconnected for the test. The hot and the ground. Now, is there a way to replace just the solenoid without taking out the pump?
For me the solenoid reads good. And always use the ohms scale when measuring
Yes, the solenoid is in the top cover.. The cover can be removed and the solenoid replaced.. Be careful, the screws WILL BREAK if u use to much force..
You 3.4 ohms is good? If there is continuity, doesn't that mean it's shorted?
What is the best way to remove the screws? Is there something I should be aware of when removing the cover? Any suggestions on where to buy the part? Thank you
U better have a hard look at those screws.. they might be 6 sided torx or 5 sided torx or even 5-6 sided TAMPER PROOF TORX.. or 5/16 hex .. or just a plain ol flat head screwdriver.. I’ll take a volt meter to a solenoid tomorrow..
U can find the solenoid number using Google .. Stanadyne solenoid.. DO NOT BUY THE 25.00 solenoid off the web.!! An original Stanadyne solenoid is EXPENSIVE.. so u better MAKE SURE yours is bad.!!
It comes down to how good your meter is, but 3.4 ohms is not bad. Don't know if the solenoid reading should be 3.4 or 6.4, either way the current draw can be within limits. Current formula is Current=voltage divided by resistance, so 13/3.4 = 3.8 Amps With wires disconnected measure ohms from one of the wires to case ground. There should very high resistance, open circuit
I just tested my solenoid.. 3.3 ohms WITH continuity.. So it would seem yours is GOOD..
Thanks for taking time to do that. I was hoping to be the culprit as I don't know what could be wrong now. The pump itself? Anyway to check that?
Take all the fittings off the top cover and try to start it. (return line and fittings) Loosen all the lines AT THE INJECTORS or as many as you can get to. Try to start it (crank the engine) and watch to see if any fuel squirts out of the loosened lines.
If they squirt or drip, tighten the lines.. and try to start it.. Hold the throttle WIDE OPEN when diagnosing..
R u getting 12v at the solenoid when u turn the key but don’t start it.?? U can run a hot wire from the battery + to the top of the solenoid +.. and listen for a click..