Well, after deciding against the Massey and the Deere, as per my previous posts, I finally got a Case 580C. It's not the prettiest, and it has some issues, but I got a good deal on it ... I hope! The guy gave me the entire service manual, so that will be a big help. It has no steering. I think the steering cylinder(s) are blown. I just picked it up yesterday and haven't got a good look at it yet. Hoping it's not the pump, but there's no steering at all. It's got hydraulic lines blown and/or leaking all over the machine. A couple cylinders blown too. Hopefully all that will be fairly simple to fix. One of the brakes is locked up. Someone pulled it off and lost the bolts, so I'll have to figure out what sizes of bolts I need, in addition to fixing the brake - whatever is wrong with it. 1. What hydraulic fluid should I put in it? The service manual says the hydraulic system, power shuttle/converter, power steering, and mechanical shuttle all take Case TCH. Can I just use regular tractor hydraulic fluid that I get at the farm store? I've done some research but it seems like there's a million opinions and I can't find anything conclusive. 2. I know all you Case guys are going to roll your eyes, but how easy is it to convert this from Case controls to 2-stick/wobble-stick controls? I can run 2-stick in my sleep, and yes I know I could learn this one, but I'd like to know if it's feasible to switch it over. 3. Any suggestions as to what I should work on or do the maintenance on? The machine has been sitting for a couple of years, and it definitely needs some TLC. Thanks! I've done lots of mechanic work, but not much on backhoes or Case equipment. Suggestions and help from the more experienced are much appreciated.
You can get all of the manuals here ---> https://www.minnpar.com/manuals5.aspx?FName=CASE (CNH) MANUALS&SFName=CNH (CASE) LOADER BACKHOE MANUALS&SSFName=BACKHOE (CASE) 580 SERIES PARTS MANUALS&SSSFName=CASE 580C Check the filter in the steering pump. The bolt sizes should be in the parts book. a good quality aw 32 which is a SAE 10w oil will be OK. IMHO Do not use Universal 303 hydraulic fluid. The easiest way to convert the controls is to find a control tower in a salvage yard that does not have the foot pedals.
Thanks Tinkerer. That's a great resource for manuals! Appreciate you sending that. Unless I'm just overlooking it, I don't see a filter in the steering pump in the parts diagram. I had another look at it today and the seals are blown on both cylinders, and the reservoir is empty. Seal kits are less than $10, so I'll start with that and put some fluid in it. I did find the bolt sizes. Thanks. Good to know I can just use AW32. I just wish it were cheaper, but it's not as much as the Case stuff!
Item #9 is the filter.
Now how did I miss that? Thanks! I'll check that too.
I've got a steady drip off the bottom of the transaxle on the right brake. I'm assuming it's gear oil. I was assuming there was a gasket under that cover, but looking at the parts diagram I don't see a gasket, but I do see a shim. Item #27. Am I looking at this right? Does that shim act as a gasket, and would that maybe be causing the leak?
I believe it's the oil seal #28 that's leaking. You have to fix that before doing the brakes.
If you do a search here for 580C brakes you will get an amazing amount of information as to how to repair them. They are covered in the service manual also.
That makes sense. I was assuming there should be a gasket on the housing, but maybe that's not really meant to seal. It would make sense that there would be a seal around that shaft, otherwise the housing, and therefore the brakes, would get oil in them. I guess I'll tear it apart and see what it looks like. Thanks. I'll do some more reading/research. Good review for Yesterday's Tractors coming from me. Was trying to track down the correct part numbers for some seal kits on the hoe. Super helpful and the guy I called spent a lot of time working on it and getting the correct numbers. And the seal kits were only about $30, while the Case dealer wanted $150!
Was it Dale Wiess at tractorstuff.com ? He has an unbelievable knowledge of anything made by Case.
If it's the right side brake housing with the leak there's a very good chance that the diff lock seal #20 that seats inside #18 is smoked, might be worth a gander as well.
I have a 480c, which is the baby brother of your 580c. I have put seal kits in almost all the cylinders on the rear part of the machine. One will leak, and then another and then another, though over a period of about 6 years now. When I take them apart the old seal material just crumbles. I have found it easiest to leave the cylinder on the machine, and just pull the guts out. Those steering cylinders can be very difficult to rebuild because they are so small. I rebuilt one of them when it was winter and it leaked worse than before I touched it. I was having a hard time getting that one seal in place, I think the factory installed the seal and then pressed a brass bushing in behind it. Round 2 on the rebuild I put the seal in water and put it in the microwave for a few seconds to soften it up, and it went in much better with no leaks this time. Mine needed tie rod ends also, they were only $10 each on ebay, which is where I get all my seal kits for the cylinders. On the hydraulic oil, I use the cheapest oil I can find, which lately has been CAM2 from Rural King. I use the TCH equivalent oil from tractor supply for the shuttle drive. The brake system takes regular brake fluid. I was using power steering fluid for the power steering, but I bet the hydraulic oil would work also.
Good thought. I'll check those too. Thanks for the info. Thankfully there's a guy close to me who does cylinders. He's known all over this area as the best, and he doesn't charge too much. I have a feeling it will be the same as yours - one leak after another until I get all the seals done. I got some AW-32 fluid for $57/bucket, which seemed a decent price. Still not cheap when you need 6 buckets! Yes, the service manual calls for hydraulic fluid for the powersteering too.
Does anyone know how the drain opens up for the water trap on the fuel tank? I think there's been quite a bit of condensation in the tank so I'd like to drain it. Is it the large nut or the center torx? It's pretty rusted so I'd like to know what I'm trying to turn and which direction it should turn before I start putting a lot of torque on it.
There is supposed to be a petcock where that plug is. I would replace the plug with a ball valve.
Mine has got a petcock like a radiator drain valve, looks like someone has replaced it with an allen plug or something.
2nd the ball valve, you can stick a piece of wire or a pick up through the ball valve if it's loaded with crud, not so with the petcock.
Good idea on the ball valve. Which way does it come off? The center torx part or the big nut? I've seen some of these that were reverse-threaded and I don't want to twist it off.
Just the center plug, r/h thread and secure the actual bowl by holding the big nut or you may twist it out of the tank,(not good). Make sure you drain the tank first or you're gonna get wet trying to thread the new valve in real quick to save some time..Ask me how I know.
It is most likely an allen screw that would take a standard allen wrench. I recommended a ball for the very reason stinky posted.
Finally got around to having a look at it. Yes, it's an allen screw. I took out the plug but it was so full of crud that no fuel even came out! I poked around up in it and got it cleaned out enough to drain. I think the tank has a lot of rust in it. Not sure whether to try to clean it or just change the fuel filters and call it good.
Are you kidding me! After all of the good advice you are getting from the guys on this forum on how to remedy your machine's issues you're going to do a ghetto repair and hope the rusty tank will fix itself ,not gonna happen! Have you even looked in the tank with a light or scope to survey the crud? Spend some inexpensive time to fix your fuel supply system or it will bite you later.
Sorry, I should have explained myself better. I know fuel filters would just be temporary. My situation is that I've just moved and got some new property (which is the reason I got the backhoe). I left a place with a nice shop and now I'm on a piece of cardboard in the driveway Once I get a shop built and have some time this winter, you bet I'll be cleaning the tank and a whole bunch of other stuff. Right now I'm just trying to have a working machine so I can get some projects done.
I watch for strips of rolled up carpet that is put on curbs for the garbage man to pick up. They are typically 4 feet wide and are awesome to lay on. I rarely ever use a creeper in my shop anymore.
That's a great idea. I'll have to keep my eye out for some.
Whether it be dirt,gravel,cardboard,carpet (also spectacular for tent flooring),plywood or concrete, the hole in the fuel tank is up top, not bustin' your balls, just sayin'
I got around to pulling the bearing carrier behind the brake, and yes, that seal #28 is shot. Ordered that off Ebay and hopefully that remedies the problem.