I just purchased a 1980 Case 580c and noticed that the rod for the return to dig feature is missing, is this a big deal? and can someone please explain to me exactly what that feature does? also how do I search on this forum/site for a post/thread so I am not constantly asking the same questions as other members "I am totally new to this site" and don't wanna **** anyone off, this site is a wealth of info. any feedback is much appreciated. BTW if I type into the search box ex. "Return to dig" tons of posts come up but not pertaining to exactly that
RTD is a function that allows the cutting edge to be set at a preset angle for returning to grade and loading your bucket, the machine has both self leveling and rtd along with a float for the loader lift cylinders. The thing about rtd it's found on most const equipment that have a loader, when your bucket is off the ground say three feet or higher the bucket lever can be ingaged and released and it will bring it back to a preset cutting edge angle, the self leveling keeps material from spilling over the top edge, rolling the bucket out as it is raised and maintaining the selected angle you choose, the float allows the loader to go to the ground fast to ingage the ground and allow it to float with the contour as needed going forword or reverse. With the machine setting on level ground, check the tire pressure in the rear tires and adjust, place the bucket on the ground, pitch the bucket so the cutting edge is about 1/4 to 1/2 lower at the edge than the rear of the bucket and adjust the missing rod if replaced as needed for this setting, you may also have some elect issues at the loader valve and switches that need repair, ask all the questions you need !
Fantastic explanation! Thanx
sheepfoot, thank you for taking the time to explain what RTD is. I have been trying to find out for two weeks now. I think that is something I'll take a look at in the spring
I have a Case 680C and if the RTD rod were to be missing I would have a dangerous situation. When that rod is missing the loader bucket has no self-leveling capability when raising the hoist. So with a full bucket of material and the rod missing you MUST NOT allow the hoist to go up without manually leveling the bucket. Or you will have half of your material on the hood and in your lap !
Tinkerer, it's funny you brought that to my attention, yesterday I started the machine to move it and I raised the bucket all the way up and was looking at it and saying wow that bucket sure is on an angle "towards me and the hood" now I know the reason why, thanks for the big heads up
You are welcome Dapperdan. ALWAYs be careful when hoisting rocks or broken sidewalk slabs, especially , even if the self leveling function is working. A simple thing like shifting from forward to reverse can cause material to end up on you and cause serious harm.
Tinkerer, would I be able to just put a heavy rod running from the loader arm back up to the little lever? there are two holes, would this stop the bucket from comming all the way back or do I need all of the eletrical parts also?
RTD and Self leveling are two different functions. Self leveling is done with the long rod on the outside of the right loader arm and the RTD is controlled by the small rod on the inside of the right loader arm. The self leveling rod will keep the bucket level when you raise the loader but will not return the bucket to level or dig (depending on how you set it) position when you lower the bucket. The RTD rod and switch does that. They are independent of each other and you can have one without the other.
GWS, I thought the C was like the B that the self leveling was accomplished by the hydra level cylinder on the right side of the loader boom?? I can't remember if the D's had those or not... On the B's the RTD was positioned by the rod down the side of the boom. Most all of them, including mine, are missing now. Dave
On my C I have the self leveling rod on the outside which keeps the bucket level when I raise it but I am missing the RTD rod assembly so I have to reposition the bucket when I lower the arms. Maybe I am labeling them wrong between the two?
According to the 580C Loader parts diagram there is a hydra level cylinder like the B, I thought there was. This hydraulically levels the bucket when raised and lowered. The rod is called a guide rod and on mine it is missing along with the bell crank at the back end. I thought this guide rod pushed the rollback spool off on RTD?? I have the rest of the control latch mechanism from the backhoe I got the front axle from, in working with that I thought that is how that worked. :Banghead The parts diagram below is named "Return to Dig and anti rollback parts" from the 580C loader parts catalog... Dave
GWS, so would I be able to put a rod with adjustable threads on either end on the outer side of the loader arm and adjust it so the butcket would not curl back as far??
RTD and self-leveling are two different functions. Self leveling is controlled by a valve with the same name and the hydra level cylinders. dwloop described it accurately. I didn't mean to imply anything different. The missing rod is a very important part in regards to operating the loader in a safe manner. On my 680 the rod has to be the specified length as it came from the factory. If it is too long or too short the rod will not stop the bucket from rolling back too far when raising the hoist. It also (at least on a 680) will not allow the RTD function to work. From what I see in the picture above the difference between a 580 and 680c is this - a 680c has an electric switch that is tripped by that long rod and controls the bucket position when it hits the ground. That is the RTD on a 680C . That switch is hooked to a solenoid on the loader valve body.
I checked the Case parts site and the system shown is in the 580C online parts search. I have been with Case and have been at a dealership where we sold hundreds of these machines, I checked the D series which is similar to the C which was the first modular Case hoe and loader and I think the D system more accurately represents what the C is like, the C and D do not have loader uprights as the diagram shows as the whole frame of the tractor is Modular and the engine and drive components are mounted inside the main frame assembly, for some reason the old style frame and valve and linkage are shown in the online parts book, I will check our master parts book in the AM when I go to work I don't know where the confusion is here but the 580 C is NOT a Hydraleveling loader, it uses a rod to accomplish anti rollback and an electrical microswitch to set up the return to dig feature. It does not have a slave cylinder, that went away after the B series which used a lever that held the dump cylinder lever in rollback till the edge was in the proper place then the lever released the control lever and stopped the rollback function. The diagram shown is a B or earlier as the control valve on a C is in a compartment with the battery. The system shown would be virtually the same for the 530CK through the 580 B. All later systems were mechanical/ electric. Mel When using the online parts catalog be sure to use the 580 C loader parts lookup page, it is correct and shows it without the hydraleveling cylinder setup.
All I can say is that the Case on-line parts catalog is where dwloop copied the picture he posted above. I searched the Case on-line parts catalog for a Case 580C and looked at figure listing #346. That is the one he posted. Figure listing #222 shows the hydra leveling cylinder and its components. ??????
The self leveling or anti roll back (which is probably a better term) rod is comprised of 2 rods. A small 90 degree rod that attaches to the a hole in the loader arm near the bucket end and the long rod that attaches to the another pivot arm with a rather stout spring at the loader mount pin. The long rod is hollow at the end where the small 90 degree arm is and the small arm has to be able to slide in and out of the longer rod. Then there are linkages that go from the pivot rod into the loader valve area under the fender. Lot of pieces just to keep the bucket level when you raise it but it is an important part that if missing you should invest in getting to work again. I'll take some pics of mine tomorrow and maybe help clear up what I just said. My thinking and my typing don't often match up well.
When you type in 580 C in the search box three different lines come up , the first a 33 backhoe, the second a 35 loader is listed, the 35 loader where these reference numbers come from is not a 580 C loader although it shows up on the search, if you will look under the 580C loader listing which is the last one on the list of three you will see the proper picture of a C's system, without the Hydraleveling. The lookup is deceiving. mEl
Melben, I did include the 580C loader diagram from the CNH site, but was not aware it was incorrect. I apologize for causing the confusion, I though the 'C' and 'B' were the same. It has been thirty years or more since I worked one on the job and my memory is not that great. Dave
Certainly no problem with me but I couldn't understand where that came from cause I knew it wasn't right, I've worked on literally hundreds as I started with my dealer when the 530's were just coming out and am still there to predeliver N's. I did the same thing then went back and found you have to click on the 580C loader line which is the last one. Mel
I agree, if you type in 580C you get the pages for the 580CK and 580CK series B, as well as the 580C... My bad... Oh well, been one of those days all around. Again I am sorry for the confusion. Dave
Hey, get a good nites sleep, we've all had those times, lol. Mel
This thread is another example of what makes HEF the best on the internet. By that I mean ,Alrman melben all the people that have the experience to sort out and share the correct information. I cannot imagine how many times the wrong parts were ordered and sent back because of the confusion Case has caused with just this one reference page in their online parts catalog. I have learned a lot on this thread alone.
Dapperdan; Can you upload a picture of your hoist with the missing rod. I think that we could be able to help you with what you need. Maybe someone with the same set-up will see what you have and be able to give you the correct dimensions for the missing rod, maybe you can make one out of pencil rod. In regards to the missing electrical parts, a picture or more details are needed to figure out what you need.
Here is a pic from my 580 CK, vintage 1968: Pic of loader controls, showing rod/linkage: This shows the long rod from the front bucket back to the loader controls:
Beautiful 580CK, It wasn't that clean when it was new. Impressive.
Grady.....Thanks for the compliment on my restoration work......its not perfect, but ALOT better than when I started. I still have to finish restoring the backhoe this coming spring/summer.
nice to see the details of the return to dig linkage. Mine is missing.
Grady.....Hey, Xpac's Return to Dig parts were missing also, but he got a used set from Dale at TractorStuff in Indianna.....Great guy to deal with, so you may want to call his 800 number and just see what price he wants for a set. Here is is: 800 428 8183
Thanks, I'll give him a call.
Grady i dont think you will regret getting a hold of Dale this guy is just plain awesome 68 turned me on to him and man he has been a blessing helping me with my 580ck he is one smart fellow and willing to share his knowledge about these anyway when i put the return to dig on mine the most complicated thing was the spring as i wasnt sure how it went and after i figured it out i found it was easier to get the spring on by putting the linkage that spring goes over on the tractor first then hook the other linkage to it heres a couple more pics for you i just dont know if your (C) is the same as our(ck's) Hope these help you
Thanks xpack, definitely helps. Unfortunately it shows more of what I'm missing. I have a ck I think it's a 1970 or thereabouts with the gas motor that I've had for about 35 years. I love it and would never part with it. I also have a C that I think is a 1980 and a K that is a 1990 - both diesels. The K has the Cummins, 4wd and the extendahoe. So I have a C, a K, and a CK - a little confusing sometimes. They are all somewhat cosmetically and mechanically challenged - they all lived full lives and were worked hard with minimal maintenance before I got them but keep going and going thanks to people here like you guys.
Mine is a 1970 ck i have had it for about 3-5 years and it was kind rough when i got it but it has grown to be my baby and i wouldnt part with it neither.This old girl works harder than any tractors i have ever had including my 2012 kubota the 580's are definitely built to last at least the old ones are i dont know much about the new ones.If you get a chance or maybe you have already seen it i have a thread going on right now about doing a bunch of different stuff to mine theres a lot of good info on there and these guys are posting some good info about a variety of stuff on there.Its called 1970 580ck gets her name and surgery. If you need anything else feel free to ask.
I was just looking at that thread. I like the "before" pictures, too. It reminds me of what mine used to look like. I repainted mine so long ago it almost looks like that again. It's going to take some time to view that whole thread but I'll enjoy doing it. It's cold and windy here today with 3" of fresh snow. I got some bad gas in my truck a couple days ago and had to have it towed home. It doesn't fit in the garage so it's not much fun out there these days. I've got good gas in it now but the motor must be loaded up with the bad stuff because it keeps soaking plugs when I try to start it. Sorry, I know this is off topic but it's my biggest problem right now.
Sorry to hear about the truck i have been there before to and i hate dealing with it outside in the cold heck its taken me a hour the past couple days just to get the old woodburner rolling in the shop were starting to get normal michigan weather now which sucks.Hey if you can post some picks of your old ck i would like to see it.take care and hope you get that truck fixed.
I'd post some pics if I had a clue how to do it. I have apple phone and computer.
Grady......Can you save your pics to your computer? If you can get the pics there, then all you do is "click" on the square box (icon) right above this sentence (you see "Font.....Size...A...Smiley face, etc. ) It looks like a picture with a tree in the middle. Just click on that when you start a "Reply to Thread". You will then direct it where to get the pic.....usually something like "My computer.......My documents.....My pictures"....then to the pic you want. Then you tell it to upload the pic, and bingo, you got the pic in the Reply section of the thread. You can probably just plug you phone to the computer using a connecting wire. Then you direct the computer to search your iphone for the pic you want. Maybe someone else can give better directions for posting pics.
Dont feel alone with that grady i struggled with it to but once you figure it out its not to painfull and it does come in handy when trying to get help its like pumpguy has said pics are worth a thousand words.I definitely couldnt explain it better than 68 has.My kids help me with this kinda stuff they just know how to get it done and look at me like im stupid when it comes to computer stuff.Hope you figure it out i would love to see your tractor...
Yeah, there's never a 7 year old around when you need one. The CK is covered with tarps and snow right now and we're due for more so give me a couple days for a current pic. I'll see if I have some old pics on my old computer. I'll give it a try - sounds pretty easy. Thanks.
I wasn't able to post the pics. I think the apple images are not an approved file type - but It could just be that I'm a computer moron because you should never rule out the obvious. If anyone knows for sure, feel free to let me know. Thanks.
Hey Grady i send my pics using the digital camera disc i know when you try to upload them this site says it can only be the following filetypes jpg,jpeg,png,gif you might ask a store best buy,staples or a 6yr old grandkid what yours are or how to get your file turned into one of these types of files i am using a pc not apple but there has to be a way to do it with your apple.Dont feel bad my 6 yr old granddaughter does know more about this kinda stuff than i do i wish i knew more so i could help you with it i have found that being able to do it comes in real handy and once you figure it out its pretty easy you might even start a thread asking others on here im sure someone has this figured out with the apple...
Here's some tarped pics of the CK, the C, and the K
I put a 5 gallon bucket over the exhaust and then a tarp over that so thats the shape. I painted the CK with SEM rust shield Cat Yellow about 10 years ago. They only had Cat or John Deere yellow - no Case, and the JD was too bright for me so I went with the Cat. The C has a hole in the roof where the rotating beacon used to attach and if I don't cover it - it drips right on the seat. The C and the K have the automatic shuttle, diff. lock, and no high/low range.
Grady cool you figured out how to post those pics all 3 of your tractors look pretty good that old ck cab looks like one that juskatla on the website has i think his was a sims cab and if i was gonna do a cab on mine that would be the one i would want it looks really good on the tractor. Thanks for the pics its neat seeing the different ones...
Yeah, I would lose at who's smarter than a 5th grader but I finally figured it out. They don't look as bad from a distance with some snow and tarps on them. It's hard enough just to keep everything running, let alone spiffed up. You guys must have more spare time, or you're just smart enough to keep the number of machines to a minimum. Lucky you live so far away or I'd put you to work. Thanks for prodding me to learn something new. It will come in handy, I'm sure.
Grady......Great pics.....Man, I barely have time to keep my ole 68CK running.....I cant imagine having to keep 3 going, and doing all the resto work on them all. You have some great investments there.....the top CK, is that in the 68-70 year range? I do the tarp thing too, until I can build a shelter with a 10 foot tall ceiling. I even try wrapping a small tarp around the top of the backhoe to help keep water from leeching down into that top cylinder, and if I know she will be sitting a long time, I will try to oil up those shiny chrome cylinder pistons. I have seen some left out and developed rust spots all over the chrome....not good for the seals.
68 I just happen to have a large yellow umbrella that im not using anymore it even has a taped up hole in it you could cut the tape and run a chimney threw it for a woodburner (just saying) waste not want not hahaha
Xpac.......Yea man.......I like your style of thinking.....put a chimney thru that hole in your yeller umbrella and I would be ready to face those cold winds coming from your neck of tha woods. The next good Alberta Clipper coming thru Michigan, just toss that tractror umbrella up into the chilly winds, and Im sure it will arrive down here shortly after that tie rod nut does. Haaaa Haaaaa
There both flying your way
'68, You better measure, I don't think a 10 foot clearance is enough unless you drop the boom and stretch out the hoe before driving in - and then she gets so long it might be hard to close the door - if there is one. I've been thinking of some kind of shelter for my equipment. Even just a roof with sides that you can drive through would work for me. I have an old farmall M that pulls a cordwood trailer and backing it up is no treat. Yeah, just keeping everything going is enough so I don't devote a lot of time to cosmetics but I like seeing the pics of those that do.
Hey grady i put mine in a 10' slider door but i do have to stretch out the backhoe then work it in after the tractor is in i raise the boom and pull it in so it ends up only stretched out a little and i slide the door closed.mine is the extendhoe One of my neighbors has a 580b regular hoe and a 12ft slider on his barn and he can drive right it but it is close...
Grady......Yep, that was my plan.....to bend the hoe down enough to get some of the hoe under shelter, depending on how long the building is. The main thing was to keep the tractor under-roof so I dont have to fool around with tarps all the time.
Yeah, '68, I'm going with the 12'+ doors because I know I'll drive right through one some day if I don't. Pretty sure the CK is a 1970. I hear you on the tarp thing. It's a real PITA. One of these days….. You know how it goes - The cobbler's kids have no shoes, the mechanic's car doesn't run, etc. I wear all the hats [half-as*ed] so my rigs need work, the garage isn't done, and the roof leaks. Good thing I don't make shoes, huh?
Grady......Yea, we both would have toes popping thru if we made shoes......and that blizzard is about to clobber us big time.....dont need holes in our shoes. You are right.....12' is the way to go. Now you have me scratching my head about 12 vs 10.....actually wont cost that much more.
No sense doing all that work for something that's too small. You're right, it won't cost much more to make it big enough. Looks like you're gonna get a chance to move some snow with that thing. At least it won't get dirty ; ) I use mine for snow removal around my place. I got a set of tire chains that makes all the difference - no more wheel spinning - about like 4wd without chains. Best $200. I've spent on her.
Believe it or not i actually snaked my whole tractor with backhoe in my 22x30 with 8ft door shop you see in the pics of course i didnt have the old faithfull umbrella on it.I had to get it in there one winter for some kinda repair and it was tight moving around in there but hey i had heat.If i was putting up something specifically for these to drive in and out without having to stretch out the backhoe i would do 12' both of my neighbors run the 580b's and have the 12 ' slider doors and they pull right in and out but if you were gonna do a overhead door then you probably would need 14' for headroom for the door.When i fist moved out here there were no barns just a 2 car garage and i need a place for my junk and kubouta so i bought 2 of what i called those plastic pole barns and they held up for about 6 yrs i think they were about $300.00 each and they got me threw until the barns came...
Grady.....good tip.....I will look into getting chains sometime. Will get to experiment w/o chains this weekend.
If your place is flat, you're all set but if it's up and down like mine, you'll be looking for chains. I don't have much flat area. My elevation changes 200 feet from lowest point to highest and it isn't just a steady incline, it's up and down and up and down etc. - and we get serious snow. Your turn this time, though, I think it's gonna miss us for a change. Have fun.
Grady.....yea, Ive got some decent grades here too, but not as extreme as yours. I guess you are in the WV/Ky/Tnn areas? Cranked "Greased Lightning" up this morning and was moving piles of brush. When going down one steep grade with very low RPM's, she did pop out of low range and started rolling a bit fast. At least the brakes are working....not great, but working. Im hoping that I just had not shifted all the way into Low range, and thats why it popped out. This is the first time since the rebuild work that this has happened. Hopefully Xpac didnt send those Murphey's Law Gremlins from Michigan back to Virginia.
'68, Look in that white box on the left of each post. Go down 3 lines under the name. I'm north of this blizzard, We aren't supposed to get much if any this time around here. It's your turn for a change, sorry. Last year we got around 10 feet so don't feel too dumped on. When we get that kind of snow it is barely news but down there it's a natural disaster because it hardly ever happens.
Grady......Guess I had a senior moment......not seeing you are in NH in that box. Yep, you got pounded last year for sure....10-20feet, probably a new record in your area. But, down here in VA, it doesnt take much to totally shut down everything, and have the Feds go running to their underground bunkers.
Get used to those moments. I hear enough beer keeps them at bay. :drinkup
enough beer works until the next day when spark knock sets in and you realize the little pric_s multiplied hahahaha
Grady.....Cheers......:drinkup
Xpac........Cheers to Spark Knock.......:drinkup:drinkup:drinkup:drinkup:drinkup
here's to Spark Knock: and a little hair of the dog - :drinkup:drinkup:drinkup
paint hello I'm in the process of working o my case 580 b. I quit smoking 9 months ago and bought her. anyhow ive done the brakes and ive cleaned the shuttle pickup screen and a few other odds and ends lol motor replacement. rebuilt my first hydraulic cylinder. what I wanna know is how u went about painting ur tractor. I wanna do mine. ill be doing it using cat yellow I got from work. its just a farm tractor but its mine. I'm not sure if phil is still on here or not but he made post way back in like 2006 and I just wanted to say thanks its helping me a lot. maybe old to u but she is my new treasure. mike
Swamp.....here is a thread where 68painted his with a brush and roller....I painted mine with rattle cans..... but it sounds like yours would be best to paint with a spray gun since you have the paint use cheap aluminium foil on the cylider rods and some plastic to cover things like the motor ect.....good luckand if you can post some pics of you project we would like to see them..... HeavyEquipmentForums
You mentioned Phil and unfortunately, he has not posted in several years, and it has been suggested that he may not be back. I suspect that something has happened to Phil or we would have heard from him by now. I also appreciate his postings wand wish he was still on here.
swampfox......Congrads. on snagging an old 580. Maybe start a thread on your restoration, and we will certainly follow and help when you have questions. As Xpac said, I used a mini roller and a brush and posted pics of the process, but Xpac went with the rattle cans. I did a section at a time, and it was a long process......all the degreaseing, sanding, primer coat, and then the 2-3 coats of paint. The small roller is used after the brush to eliminate the brush lines. Most people say it looks like a spray paint as there are no lines and it is pretty glossy.
Im gonna use rattle cans on the motor but paint the rest using a brush. Gotta be sure to check hydraulic rams for overspray.
Hello and i hope everyone is having fun with their machines. I have case 580 b . The float control valve when activated stays in until its knocked out of its position. The return to dig the lever is placed at the 10 oclock position . The float spool valve is engaged in the forward position and it stays but the right or the spool thats on the right i think operates the bucket curl doesnt stay in. I think 1 vzlve is all theway forward the other is all the way towards the rear . Until the rod on thd antiroll back rod knocksit out of position . Mine doesnt stay in the rtx pisition it jumps into float everytime. I am thinking the spoll valve is bad
Greeting Swampfox.......I cant quite wrap my head around what is going on in your situation, so I will let one of the experts give their opinion. Hope the other crazy Case guys are doing well and have the fire wood stacked good and tall for another cold winter. I also want to mention how easy my 580 starts, even after sitting for months. Last fall was the last time I cranked her up and ran for 15 minutes to get the fluids warm and worked the hydraulics a bit before covering up. She sat a full year until yesterday when I pulled the heavy covers off, fought the angry wasps who enjoy building nests under the tarps, and I turned on the fuel, popped in a charged battery, and hopped onboard. This time I remembered to put the tranny into "S" position which is required if you still have the safety switch connected. I hit the starter button, and she fired right up with less than a second of cranking time. Idled perfectly, sounded great. Why in the world cant our high-tech world make engines like this anymore? I tell you, this Case diesel never fails to start with just a quick punch of the starter. My message to the old Case Tractor builders: "We are not worthy....."
Can anyone tell me why my rtd lever doesnt stay 10 oclock position when rtd is engaged . If drops into float position. Ive tried figuring it out. Starting to think spool valve is bad.
Sorry I can't help - my RTD linkage is missing on my CK. I just use the sight on the loader arm to know when the bucket is flat and ready to take another bite. If I was loading trucks in a pit all day it would come in handy. Hopefully someone who can shed some light on your problem will chime in.
Do you have the service 0r operators manual for your 580B Swampfoxo ? The adjustments are in the operators manual. An example.
Yes i do but it will not stay in the rtd position. Manuzl is great but it doesnt say whatll happen if u get lots of slack in ur lever or if the spool valve is bad. . MNual doesnt explIn what happens when parts all worn out.
That lever has 5 positions mine only works in 4. Up down left right.
"That lever has 5 positions mine only works in 4. Up down left right." The return to dig is not on the loader lever. You have to pull the RTD latch. Does the float function of the loader work OK ? That is how I interpret the manual. Have you adjusted the linkage like the op manual explains ? Most of the linkage parts are available. Everything you need to know about the spools is in the service manual. Actually I never use the RTD function on my own machine. It is completely unhooked.
I have often wondered if the RTD linkage / function was related to the common problem of the broken loader frame at the top main pivot. Mine has the self leveling function but no RTD linkage. My loader arms are original and unbroken and my bucket can be lowered when rolled back or not without any issues. Maybe there's no connection - I haven't done any real research into it beyond wondering why the guy I got it from ripped that linkage out. He was a pro and a smart old guy who didn't do things for no reason. I wished I had asked him when I could have.
Interesting
My problem i dont think is an adjustment. Ghe main control lever will not stay in the rtd position on its on. It jumps to float position. Im thinking the spool valve is suppose to have a spot in it that locks the spool in the outward position till hit by the antiroll cradle.
The float position detent tension is adjustable, if that is the problem. Provided the spring that puts pressure on the retaining balls isn't broken.
Great thats a big help does the other spool have a detent ball in ut aa well that hold the lever at the 45 degreee position. I have a manual i just olay hell understanding it. Im color defeicient. . My float feature lever straight forward works its just that it will not stay in the rtd position it jumps into float. I xzn put lever in 12 oclock position and it will float at the desired height but when i put it in 10 oclock position the spool valve u showed me engages the other doesnt so the levergoes to float everytime. Im assuming both spokls have a derent ball and i need to adjust the other. Am i making any sense. Thanksfor ur help. Any idea where i can buy partsfor these spools. Just for shots and giggles. Im looking at a 580c , i offered 500 dollarsfor it. If i get it im gonna fix it up and sell my b. Do u think theres a chance i can get 10 grand for it. Just yoyr thoughtson it. Thanks mike
10K for a B would be high around here unless it had been gone through and was in tip top shape. I would think any C worth fixing up would be worth more than $500. - It's scrap value is probably more than that. It's a heavier duty machine than a CK or a B that are really just glorified farm tractors. I'm not knocking them - just being honest - I love my old CK. Around here, a CK or a B that has been sitting in a field for 20 years goes for at least $1000 to $1500. and a C would go for at least twice that much and probably more.
Great soundz good. Ithink if j getig for 500 im gonna fix it up. It doesnt have thd shuttle liketheb does. I ghink ig woulx be easief to deal with besides i lovd doing it
Mike; The loader bucket will not float at a desired height. It will only float with the bucket on the ground. The float position is pretty much useless going forward (at least for me). Usually the front wheels will rise above the ground going forward when the loader is in the float position. I totally agree with Grady's post about the value of the machines.
I've used float forward for pushing snow after the ground freezes - probably not something you'll use it for in Louisiana though.
Me too ! I didn't think that info would be relevant to Swampfox tho !
Only once but it would make a mess out of a dirt driveway
Ok ill use your info to see if i can get this thing to stay in the rtd position as im hands free with it.