I figure I going to need new pins the teeth and I like what I have. I don't know where they were bought. I thinking Napa but if some one can help me out and tell me what teeth these are, where I can them.
First pic, third tooth looks like a rubber bonded pin like you see in #23 or #230 teeth. But then the teeth look like welded bobcat style teeth but 23 mounting? Does it say anything else with the "forged" that you can read? those teeth don't look bad either, they'll wear a lot more before they need to be replaced.
#23? #230?, 23 mounting? I can build about anything but I don't under stand and can't find information on what one tooth is compared to another. There is not a store in that I 've found that I can pick up these and look them over. The rubber bonded I get but what size do I need. Photo one is hiding the grade 8 bolt holing it on. I've dropped that tooth twice now. I thing #2 is going to start dropping off. Not being forged, I figured these will not last long. These cut good in dirt. Roots, not so much. most of my digging will be around trees or removing stumps. If there is something better, I am open to suggestions. This is my first backhoe.
I buy them from my Case dealer. I don't know how to specify them but they are standard on Case & John Deere backhoe buckets. I wear out a set in a year (very rocky soil). I've bought generic teeth before, but the case dealer's price is about the same. I bought shanks too this spring & put new on a John Deere bucket. I don't seem to have a real good picture of the whole bucket. First is a bucket I did for a Case backhoe. Other is a 24" John Deere bucket. Welding is Dual Shield. First ditch, all that spatter is removed.
They're almost certainly 23 which is the same as 230 style. I've just never seen one like that with a forged tooth but welded socket. There are lots of tooth styles that will fit that base socket, they'll be called 230 or 23 something. If they're loose, then the "base" is worn because it's been used to dig without a tooth on it, you can weld it back and grind to fit, or replace like Willie did. Those look new to me, unless you go to a tiger tooth that's pointed sharp I don't think you'll get much better performance with roots. A grade 8 bolt is perfectly acceptable for a homeowner machine, you won't be going through a set of teeth per day like a bigger machine can.
If you use bolts for retaining pins, use grade 5. Grade 8 can snap where grade 5 will bend. This may help determine what teeth you need. Look for places that sell ground engaging tools or ask equipment dealers. The teeth you can see the whole tooth in the 1st pic. look to be 3CHL crimp on style. 230-Teeth-HandL.pdf (blackcatwearparts.com)
Gee the flex pins made for it are cheaper than grade 8 bolts. In a 5 tooth bucket there might not be room to get a bolt in place.
Yeah, the retaining pins aren't too expensive. Bolts are usually only used as a quick fix until you can get a proper retainer or the shanks are worn and the teeth won't stay on.
& prolonging the agony of worn out shanks/worn out cutting edge doesn't make sense. Replace it! Life is too short to search for teeth! Fresh edge, fresh shanks give you many thousands more hours of use.
Thank You all. As always I am learning so much from this site. 23 or 230... I'll hit up the Case dealer and bring one with me. All my teeth are lose and thought that was the way they are. Wow There are some welds on my bucket but not like that. What type of AMP were you running to put the shanks.
It's a weave bead with flux-core wire. Some flux-core just looks like that but doesn't necessarily use a lot of amps. I'd guess in the 200 -250 amp range, maybe even a little less.
Being honest, I don't know. MIG runs voltage constant, with stick out variance current changes. Amperage varies & it shows up on the LED readout, but welding while reading I haven't mastered. It is a Millermatic 252 rated at 300 amps, but in this case it isn't even starting the cooling fan. Dual shield is notorious for gas coverage faults, but when the stars are aligned it is wonderful!
I don't think there are many similar. I've owned two John Deere 410 size & two Case 580K. Total 7 buckets, all have used the same shanks. & flex pins. I see them from several sources. There are lots of variants in shape ranging from needles to putty knifes that almost touch. Choose them for your soil. Some wear faster than others. I once experimented with welding truck spring to extend the length of worn teeth. It worked well quite a while, then the spring sections started breaking off. I suspect thicker spring leaves, or more preheat would cure that. When you lose teeth from the shank, by all means try new flex pins. If that doesn't help them stay on, your shanks are probably worn. Installing new shanks is easy! Removing the old shanks is a bit more tricky. Usually the old cutting edge is pretty tired by then. I once bought cutting edge in any dimension from Adirondack Road Materials. Last few buckets I haven't found a good source. D Miller of this forum sold me 1x10 cut to length. It is pictured above.
The teeth should not be loose, they will fall off if they're loose. You can build up the socket with weld where it's worn off, and grind it back so the new tooth fits tight with the retainer barely able to pound in. Takes many attempts with marking the high spots, fitting, grinding, repeat.
See your dentist! ASAP! Mine has been on me for missing my month!
One of my worn buckets had a cutting edge with integral tooth shanks. The manufacturer's name was virtually worn off, but in the forging was the name Hensley. Hensley makes new buckets & apparently they offer parts to repair. It was heavily worn, so I tracked them down. The new cutting edge like my worn one was near $6000. + tax + shipping. I opted for the $200. solution of cutting edge & weld on shanks. No big deal to weld on shanks.