The right side housing is loose but the drum seems to be caught and is coming off on an angle as I rotate the housing and pull it off. I'm thinking the front spring is broken or detached and the rear spring is still attached. Any ideas on how to get the housing off? Should I just pry it off and possibly break the other spring?
Reach in with a pry bar and see if you can pry the drum off the shaft and make sure you have the adjusting nut off the brake rod
Thanks Coy, the actuating rod is free from the brake pedal linkage. I can rotate and pull the housing away from the diffy but it's caught on the drum somehow. I'll work at persuading the drum assembly of the shaft. I just hope everything is still in there. I saw a previous post asking for the new lining thickness but it wasn't answered because the OP had good lining thickness. Are there minimum thickness specs in the service manual? Mine are about 3 mm.
The OEM are about 4mm new I think can't really remember. If you get the brake lining kit it will have the disc linings and rivets. The balls and spring are a separate item, so are the shoes. You should be able to get everything online though.
I was able to pull the housing off leaving the drum intact then pried it off the shaft. The other drum is rusted on the shaft tight to the backing plate. I'm not sure if I will be able to remove it. I've given it a spray with PB Blaster. We'll see how time and penetration oil works on it. The separated drum had a broken spring but it looks like everything is there. Return springs on both sets of bands are also broken. There was quite a bit of dirt accumulated in the bottom of the housing but it doesn't look oily. Can I rule out a leaking seals?
The housing are dry so no seals are leaking, but that second photo doesn't look right. Can you move the stub shaft any at all?
Oh BTW be sure and wear a mask while working on brakes the old ones had asbestos in them.
I know what you mean with that photo it looks like the shaft dropped. It moves a little but not that much to match the spline patterns. Here’s a photo at the top and bottom showing the seal. Lots of dirt but no oil. Still can’t get the other side loose.
That’s a flash shadow behind the splines.
Okay that cool. Just clean up parts and replace what is needed good luck on repair. If you have any more questions don't hesitate to ask.
So the left side brake drum is rusted onto the shaft. I can barely get a thin pry bar between the differential housing and the pad to ease it off. I've sprayed penetrating oil on the end of the shaft, warmed with a propane torch, tapped with a hammer to jar it loose and prayed a bit but she doesn't want to cooperate. Any ideas how to persuade it off?
Just keep doing what your doing. Maybe even use a couple of chisels to keep pressure on drum.
It may need more heat than a propane torch can provide. I never liked to use one of them because they heat up too big of an area. An oxy/act cutting torch will heat a small area like you are dealing with quite quickly.
Great, more tools! I've exceeded my wrench and socket sizes with this machine. I was hesitant to apply too much heat to the shaft not knowing what damage I could do to the end cap on the shaft. I thought of breaking the drum springs to get the outer drum off so I can get heat to the hub inside but I didn't know if I could reassemble it if I don't get it off the shaft. I guess one spring goes in from the back. Can I detach that spring from the outer drum without breaking it?
Heating the shaft directly will make it swell and become tighter. Concentrate the flame around the shaft.
Yes, I was applying heat to the brake hub, not the shaft but realized the shaft would naturally heat up. I didn't know if the end cap would pop out.
The drum and disc are installed like the parts diagram shown on the Case site with the drum outboard. I noticed the 530 parts diagram shows it the opposite way with the disc outboard. That seems logical to me so that the drum stays up against the transmission case bearing carrier in alignment with the bands and the disc moves in and out when applying the brakes. I noticed the disc has "INSIDE" stamped on the hub confirming it's orientation so it must have been an improvement that needed to be confirmed to the mechanic that was used to installing them the opposite way. Does anyone know why they changed?
Can someone tell me how to remove the band return springs? Do they just tap out from the inside pushing out the covers? Mine are rock solid with rust. I'll be soaking the housings in Metal Rescue later today.
As far as I know the markings to install this side in has always been on the drum. I assume it is for better brake action. I always used a punch and hammer and drove them out from the inside. They are held in with a welch plug and sometimes are hard to get out.
The brake drum came off with some heat and a persuader. Now comes the rust removal, relining the drum and disc, new bands and springs and reassembly. Fabricated a parking brake handle too. She should be road worthy this spring.
In the last pic, I see your shifter boot is torn up. It's an easy way for water to get in where you don't want it. They are available aftermarket on the cheap but getting your shift handle off might be as hard as getting the brake drums off. Some duct tape would do in the meantime. If your oil levels are high, you may have water under the oil. If the machine has sat for some time, loosening the drain plug a little at a time - while making sure not to remove it all the way - just until you see what will leak by the threads will tell you. If it's oil, you're all set and can tighten it back up - or change it anyway. If it's water, let it drip until the oil shows up. It needs to be above freezing or you need to add some heat under your machine for it to work. If the oil looks like a chocolate milk shake, it's already mixed up but don't change it until you fix that boot. Good luck.
Thanks for the advice Grady. I intended to get the shifter boot when I ordered the brake parts but I forgot. It's in a garage protected from the elements but who knows how long it has been rained on. The air filter oil had water in it, the loader hydraulic oil has water in it. The power shuttle doesn't have water but I'm going to keep checking everything to make sure the fluids are clean. Lucky me, the brake shaft seals don't leak.
Who knew NOS brake parts are still available? Actually these were power washed, soaked in Evapo-rust and wire wheeled.