2 questions here... I have 1990 Case580k and i think i may be low on hydraulic fluid. I'm not exactly sure how 'strong' my case is suppose to be but i've seen pictures where the machine can do a push up.....meaning i can lower the front bucket and take the front wheels off the ground and the lower the hoe and take the back wheels off the ground and you essentially have all 4 tires off the ground. My unit certainly can't do that. The stabilizers can take the back wheels off the ground but the front bucket isn't strong enough to take the front wheels off the ground. Also, i can't retract the hoe far enough back to lock the hoe into place for travel purposes. So i have 2 questions 1) Would the above symptons be an indication of low hydraulic fluid or is it more the case i have a hydraulic pump that is weak 2) How do you determine the level of the hydraulic fluid? I didn't see any dipstick. Any easy test to answer #1 above is to put more hydraulic fluid in the unit but i just want to know before i do that how much to put in. Is it just a case you keep filling it up to the top? Thx in advance Ron
this is from http://case580kbackhoe.com/ Integral Hydraulic Reservoir The 580K hydraulic reservoir is built into the right loader upright and main structure of the chassis. The 580SE's hydraulic reservoir was built only into the right loader upright. The 580K design gives a 68 percent increase in hydraulic reservoir capacity, from 12.5 gallons (47.3 L) to 21 gallons (79.5 L). I still think its a weak pump that 580 shouldnt have any problem lefting your equipment off the ground
Thx. Do you know how I determine what I currently have in the reservoir? Or put another way, how much I need to add to top it up?
there is a sight tube on the hydraulic reservoir, easy to see how much you need to add
As for putting the main hoe arm in the lock travel position.....Pull in the secondary arm and bucket tight.When the main arm is about half way down,pull back hard on that control lever and when it gets near the top or it wants to stop,PUSH forward on the control lever and it will come all the way back into lock.It makes a hell of a bang sometimes.lol. This is the way the owners manual explains it. I have a '91 SK and I don't think my hydralic pressure is right either.How many hours on yours??..................Sam
Thanks Sam. Meter says 6300 but can't say I trust it. Can you easily lift front wheels off ground with front bucket? You know how to tell how much hydraulic fluid to use to top it up? Thx Ron
forgot Ron,REDDEATH,who posted earlier is correct on the the ammount of hydralic oil. There is a site glass on the right front main part of the loader frame. Sometimes that glass gets all smugged up inside and you can't see the level of oil so you have to unscrew it and clean it. Be careful because if you unscrew it and your over full your going to have oil all over. Also look for the oil being white,that meens youv'e got water in it and the hydralics won't work as well.....Yes my machine will pick itself with the bucket and the out riggers and the main hoe arm.,,,but I noticed it getting worse so again Reddeath maybe be correct about a week pump. I have had a friend with a 1989 580k with a week pump and he discribed the problems your having. Ron the other thing can be pump restriction.Your hydralic filter for one. I try to find one with microsreens in it,not some of these companys that sell a paper type hydralic filter. Good luck.....Sam Oh,forgot to mension,my friend sold the 89 hoe so I don't know if a new pump fixed it.
Some of the design guys on the K were a bit, well...... the single sight glass on the tank is a poor idea. Should have had 2 one showing minimum & one for actual level. Or, fit a longer sight glass, like 99% of other manufacturers. The problem with the K is that if the oil is not in the glass it could take 2lts or 60 to fill it to level, you just don't know..... So Ron, all you can do is park the machine in the travel position, on level ground, & add oil till you can see it, it's the only way. Re hydraulic power, I would check the main relief pressure before anything else. Does yours still have the test port? Located under the machine LHS up above the front axle. Do you have any means of testing 2550psi? - (gauge required at least 3000psi) + you will need the QR test fitting to make it easy.
alrman,,,what can u tell me about the main releif valve? Where is it maybe? Mine has the QR test port but have to find a gauge also. If I take my old 350 John Deere loader up a stump,it will flip right over tring to lift it,now thats power...lol...............................sam
Definately do a pressure check before replacing a pump, a weak pump will show up as reduced performance after a warmup of the oil. On a K the valve is located behind the rubber firewall (right side looking ahead) and the main relief is a long cartridge that sticks front and slightly angled toward the center of the machine. It takes a 3/4 wrench to loosen a thin nut and an allen wrench to make the adjustment. As previously explained, hook the gage to the provided quick coupler, most good hydraulic shops can fix you right up with a 1/4 in. flat face female coupler, run the engine at high rpm, pull a loader function against a hydraulic stall and read your gage.I have a gage hose 6 ft long so I can be at the control valve while a helper runs the hydraulics. I would set it 10% over book pressure if it were mine only because later machines with this style hoe used higher pressures standard but that's your call. There are others as knowedgable as I on forum who will be glad to give input as well. Mel
thanks Mel,I'll have a look
alrman is right you always check pump pressure first. Sorry I jumped the gun just becouse it sounds like the pump please do a presuure test first I have found that most power problem will be valve related (that dam Oring will get you every time) just be very careful when dealing with hydraulics presures
Thanks Guys - once again very helpful. Off to buy a pressure guage. Are these QR connectors the same type i'd fine on an air compressor or something different? And where is a good place to buy a guage capable of 3000psi - are they easy to find or do i have to get them through Case. Having my machine up at the cottage (no internet) is a pain as i'd like to be able to run an look for the things you guys mention.
As Mel said, If there is a good hydraulic workshop/store nearby, they should be able to set you up with something - a simple gauge; 2-3m length of test hose (spaghetti type); & an adapter, should cost around $100 or so. The adapter should be a PD type, like this - http://catalog.hydracheck.com/viewitems/diagnostic-quick-connects/pd-series-test-couplings? You could search online, but when your not sure of what you are looking for, it doesn't help. Tell the guys at the shop what you are doing & that it is a Case & they may know exactly what you need.
Just a quick note to say if the relief valve seems unstable, as in widely varying pressures upon different testings I have had a significant number of the reliefs that the Loctite that fastens the body to the end that has the oring groove in it will let loose and the cartridge will be loose in the body. If so, wrap something around it to keep from maring it and disassemble it if needed, clean it and reloctite it and tighten it. Use Red Loctite. Mel.