I removed the stabilizer cylinder from my Case 580K backhoe to replace the seals. But I am having trouble removing the gland nut. I made my own spanner wrench, and we were able to rotate the nut approximately 1/8 of a turn with a lot of force. But then it basically stopped. And it doesn't look like there is any gap appearing between the gland nut and the tube. Almost like the nut is left hand threads. Is that possible? Thank you for your thoughts.
They are definitley RH thread Zef_66. You did remove the lockscrew I hope...... This thread should help, good advice from the 'grand master' - Keep trying :drinkup
i would say your shaft is bent.try pushing the shaft in or pulling it out .i had that happen to me.i stopped with the bend rite at the nut and when you hit that spot it jams up .and no it is not left hand thread. trevor b
What Trevor said.
How did I know that was going to be the first reply?!? haha, yes, I did remove the lock-screw. I did try the peening method that is mentioned there several times with each time getting harder and closer together. But I think the issue may be what is mentioned below. Yes, I think it may be bent. The reason I need to rebuild the cylinder seals is the shaft had a pretty gnarly gouge out of the rod like where a large stone came back and hit it or something. And I think the gouge tore the seals up inside causing the leak. I knew it leaked when I bought the machine, but it wasn't a deal breaker because seal kits are not overly expensive. But I am thinking the rod is bent putting the entire cylinder in a bind when everything is compressed. So my plan forward is to take the cylinder back to the backhoe and hook everything back up. Then use the hydraulic pressure and hope I can get the rod extended. I used the backhoe with the cylinder weeping, so it shouldn't be a problem.
new rod at broken tractor $275.00 and i have seen cheeper on ebay trevor b
I'm going to try and straighten it first. I work at a metal fab shop where we have a full machine shop as well as presses from as small as hand arbor presses up to 500 ton hydraulic presses. I have confidence we can get it straight.
you can try but chances are it will break. just went through the same thing in the fall . thing is you have to take it past center & 9 times out of 10 it snaps BE CAREFULL and if it has a gouge in it it will tear up new seals been there done that .trevor b
Yes, we will have to take it past center. But it is worth a try. If I break it, I buy a new one. But at least I can try. As for the gouge, I plan to just soften everything up and hone it so that it won't rip the seal. I think it should be fine. Again, worth a try. Thanks for your help!
good luck keep us posted trevor b
So I took the cylinder back up to the machine (1.5 hours away) and used the hydraulics to push the rod out. Then the gland nut just spun off. And like was mentioned the rod is bent...bad. Probably .38" over the length of the rod. And that has caused the chroming to wear off in a few areas. I need to get the nut off the end that holds the piston on next. Then I will try to get some pictures to see what everyone's opinion is. Then straighten it if I think I can use it.
Given that the chrome is worn, would you not be better off to replace the rod and be done with it? At least that way you will do a proper, long lasting repair job rather than a half job that will need to be revisited at a premature point.
I rotated my rod 180 degrees in the cylinder and works good, maybe it will bend back to strait lol if not can replace rod just a lil work and parts,,,,don't own equiptment if afraid of work
zef_66 if you work for a welding /machine shop best bet is buy new piece of shaft & weld your eye on it & thread the other end did that with mine trevor b
So I finally got around to taking some pictures of the bent rod: Bent Rod Gouge I dropped by the hydraulic shop in town here. The guy there said if I got the rod straight and the gouge smoothed out that it would okay to use for occasional use. It may leak a little, but since I am only going to use the backhoe for personal use and the stabilizer doesn't see that much use, I think it will be okay too. I considered replacing the rod, but at $300, I am going to take the chance and use the old one. The only thing I will be out is a seal kit if it doesn't work. So it's worth the gamble for me. I will probably rotate the rod when I put it back together. But I don't think it will bend back straight. I had considered that as well. And if using the old rod doesn't work, I may go that route. But I worried about the rod rusting/oxidizing since it wouldn't be chromed. I don't have a building to keep my machine in right now, so it sits out in the elements all the time. I am looking to get the rod straightened this week and back together so I can work on it over the weekend and get the machine back up and running.
if you get a new shaft it is chromed the only spot it will rust is where they weld the eye on same as factory will post pic of mine trevor b
here's a pic new shaft 24" here in ottawa was 75.00 trevor b
Well, you were right trevor b, the rod broke when we were trying to straighten it. Broken Rod So looks like I am going to try and get a harden chrome rod and weld on the end. Just have to make sure I can tap the threads in the end for the piston rod to bolt on. Thanks for all your help!
well nothing ventured nothing gained like i said i went through the same thing in november. any machine shop can thread that no prob the one that did mine even turend it on the lathe after they welded the eye on. little bit of paint and you would never know it's not factory trevor b
Yeah, it didn't hurt to try. It could have hurt with the pieces that flew out of the press and landed 20 feet away. But no one was in the way, luckily. So I got a new chrome rod ordered from Cylinder Repair Components, Inc. It is 2.0"OD x 27.0"Long and cost $94 shipped. I am in the process of cutting the eye off the end of the rod and getting it machined back to the weld and true so it can be welded on next week when the rod shows up. We did have a 1"x14 tap here in the shop, so I should be good to drill and tap the end of the rod for the piston as well.
that's why i had BE CARE FULL in capital letters . glad to hear no one got hurt .that would have left a mark .it should be smooth digging from here. hope i was some help talk at ya later trevor.
just wondering how you made out with new rod trevor b
Sorry I didn't update sooner. Got the new rod machined, the eyelet machined and welded to the rod and everything assembled just fine. The install back on the machine went fine as well and it works great. A longer process than I thought. But overall, not to costly at right around $150 for everything. Of course if I had to pay to have someone do all the work, I would have had a lot more than that. Thanks again for your help!
How did you bend it, just wondering
The rod was bent when I bought the machine. I did not notice it was bent on initial inspection. I did see the cylinder was leaking a little bit, but did not notice the bend in the rod. So I have no idea how the rod got bent.
oh, well good thing it didnt cost alot to repair