My 580 Super K had been running great as I was trying to finish my pond before autumn rains and winter snows made it impossible. As I was approaching a pile of dirt to get a bucket load, it just stopped. No forward, no reverse. No unusual noises. Engine running fine, hydraulics working fine. Checked fluid level on dipstick by rear bucket controls. Way low, I am unforgivably neglectful in my maintenance. Refilled, didn't help. Used my dump truck to pull it back up out of the pond bed. Doing preliminary troubleshooting today before paying $100/hour to the dealer. Used the stabilizers to lift the wheels off the ground, when engaging the shuttle forward/reverse lever, the engine sound changes slightly and the driveshaft from engine to rear end spins, but not the wheels. I can turn the wheels by hand with difficulty, each side independently of the other. Haven't been able to find the transmission cut out solenoid to disconnect as suggested in other postings. I am trying to get some idea whether I'm looking at a low cost repair, or a multi-thousand dollar repair. Can somebody tell me WHERE the cut out solenoid is located, or post a photo? Can anybody suggest additional checks to make. I miss my backhoe..... Thanks.
the cutout solenoid is under the floor plate right in front of the seat.
Disconnected solenoid, didn't make a difference. Checked the transmission fluid level with the transmission in neutral, engine running, it was still below the 'add' line. Filled it to within 1/4 inch of the full line with the engine running, transmission in neutral. Engine sound changed a little, maybe a little 'throatier', when engaging the shuttle lever, and the left wheel jerked just a little, but no rotation. Reconnected cut out solenoid, made no difference. It's looking bad. Could there be air trapped in the lines? Or any other simple thing to try?
Transmission fluid should be checked with engine off, after it has sat a little while.
did the gear shift pop into neutral ? trevor b
No, don't I wish... Here's an update. Stopped at a Case dealer, talked to the service manager, he was very helpful. He looked in the service manual and showed me the location of two test ports to check the forward and reverse transmission fluid pressure. Checked that the linkage from the FWD/REV lever hadn't come loose, it hadn't. Removed the transmissioin cutout solenoid to see if it had gotten stuck in the cutout position. Could see the valve move when pressing the cutout button, so it is okay. Reinstalled to check in case it had been stuck and we had freed it up, but it didn't fix anything. I did discover that when I put the lever in reverse, the left wheel jerks a little, but if I hold the cutout button down when I put it in reverse, the left wheel doesn't move. What does that point to? Also, I wish I could post a photo right here, the top of the valve assembly doesn't exactly match the exploded drawings I've been looking at. There are two pressure senders mounted on the top, but I can't find any meters to go with them. Could those be connected to something that might be causing a problem? And I need to identify which plug is the test port. Wait, I went to the Case parts website and found that after SN JJG0167019, they started installing pressure switches/senders in place of the test port plugs. So I can remove the senders to measure the pressure.
Hooked up a 300psi pressure gauge in place of the front pressure switch, ended up being the reverse port. Pressure rises smoothly to 150psi, then jumps up to 175psi. Service manager said the pressure should run between 175psi and 230psi. Looks like I'll be calling the local dealer to provide their onsite diagnosis at $2.95/mi. and $100/hr. Broken shaft, maybe? Friend of mine predicts $5k to $8K repair bill. Ouch.
If you have a stage 1, you can pull the shuttle then rebuild it, or swap it out with a rebuilt model. Not sure what one does if it is stage 3, sorry.
Thanks, mine is a phase 3. I've reached the point at which there is little more I can check or do, so I will have to call the Case dealer this week and at least have them diagnose it onsite, get a quote.
What is the one part in the transaxle that can break and eliminate both forward and reverse movement, but doesn't reduce the transmission fluid pressure below rated pressure, doesn't make noise when it breaks, isn't affected by the differential lock pedal, and isn't caused by the transmission cutout solenoid?
Does your control valve have four plugs across the back or three ?.
rsecrist- when i first got my hoe i had the same sort of problem .i just brought the old pig home &wanted to see how she pushed.i moved 1 pile and all of a sudden it stopped moveing . to make a long story longer it was the power shuttle valve body. a pice of crap came through the system holding a valve open .pg #6-22 (#19 to 24) i cleaned it all out orderd new oring's seals spriings put it back togeather and away she went cost $100.00 trevor b
rsecrist- when i first got my hoe i had the same sort of problem .i just brought the old pig home &wanted to see how she pushed.i moved 1 pile and all of a sudden it stopped moveing . to make a long story longer it was the power shuttle valve body. a pice of crap came through the system holding a valve open .pg #6-22 (#19 to 24) i cleaned it all out orderd new oring's seals spriings put it back togeather and away she went cost $100.00 trevor b
Reply to sheepfoot: Don't really know, but the serial number is JJG0167591 if that helps narrow it down. Response to trevor b: Thanks for those hopeful suggestions, I talked to a tech at North Central Ag in Ashland, OH, and he has seen the problem caused by a bad relay, or a stuck spool valve (transmission cutout valve). He's going to look at it Wed. afternoon or Thursday. Then maybe I'll finally know. Thanks, all, for your inputs.
I received the following diagnosis from the agricultural equipment dealer that looked at my backhoe. "10-31-2012 Checked relay and pressure switches, for the forward and reverse pressure. They are working properly. Drained off some of the hydraulic oil from the bottom of the transmission housing to inspect for metal. No metal found in the system that we could see. Removed the hydraulic valve from the transmission. Disassembled it to check the springs and the spools for any scoring, everything looked good. Installed the valve back onto the transmission. The transmission needs to be disassembled for further inspection. This would require spliting the unit. At this time with our schedule we do not have shop space for this kind of repair. Estimate of repairs are $4500.00 and up, not including transportation. Two facilities that may be interested in repair are : Mohican Valley Equipment at 419-368-7020 or Southeastern Equipment at 419-529-4848." The estimated cost is over my pain threshold, I'm going to think about it, save up a little more money.
Wow, are the K's that much different then the E's? According to the manual for Super E's the shuttle transmission fluid is to be checked : AT OPERATING TEMPERATURE , WHILE RUNNING at IDLE IN 4TH GEAR and Shuttle in Neutral Position(Obviously). And my dipstick is in the engine bay, no where near my "Rear Bucket Controls." Are you positive you've checked your fluid correctly and put in the right stuff? Also, you stated that you saw the driveshaft moving but not the wheels. Again, are you positive you had the transaxel in gear at that time, not just the shuttle in forward? Did you try all the gears, forward and reverse? I wouldn't assume the dealer did these checks.
The first K's had a shuttle like the c, d, e. The phase 3 transaxle was adopted 07/31/89 and started with the s/n jjg002000 but it's a good chance case had some out there before then testing. The phase 3 transaxle is not the same, it is a complete unit that has a control valve on top of the trans that directs oil to the F/R clutch packs inside the trans.
My serial number is jjg0167591. By then, they had started replacing the F/R pressure test ports with elbows and pressure switches, one of which I removed and measured 175psi. I tried several gears, and I had previously put Traveller hydraulic/transmission fluid in where the dipstick goes when it had gotten too low and started slipping. Wish I could find my user's and service manual. Does the driveshaft have a bolt or pin that could shear? Or any gears have pins or keys that could shear? I still find it odd that I had no hint that something was going bad, and no major noise like I would expect if some gear or shaft broke, but, then, what do I know?
The service manual shows a transfer gearbox with a linkage to engage two gears. It says the transmission doesn't have to be removed to work on it. A new thing to check.
It's been a little while, but I'm pretty sure that only shifts your front driveshaft in and out of gear.
yes that is for puting front axel jn gear . one other thing it could be torque converter pump had it go on mine changed it out side my self .3 to 500.00 trevor b
There are 2 rubber hoses on the main suction tube between trans and torque converter, make sure the clamps are tight or that there is not a hole or crack that is sucking air. There is a cleanable screen whare the suction tube comes out of the tranny. You will have to drain the oil out to remove the screen.
I know this is a really old post but has there ever been a solution to this problem found. one thing i find interesting in the very first post is he says drive shaft spins but nothing from rear end. wouldn't that mean transmission is working properly but something let loose in rear end? if drive shaft spins so must rear wheels.
not on the phase 3 machine they have a tork converter drive the driving shaft to the trans axel witch is a shuttle / transmition / diffrenciel all in one pice the pahase one machien had the shuttle ( witch controle foward revers ) mounted at the bell housing then a drive shaft to the trans axel that is just 4 speed transmition and a diffrencial in that case
This is B.S. / Granted it's certainly OK for them to bill you for the things they checked and inspected, ---BUT---, How can they provide a $4500 estimate for repairs that involve "splitting the unit" This machine was intentionally built with individually serviceable driveline components which can each be serviced independently WITHOUT splitting the tractor.. You NEED a Case Backhoe mechanic very badly!
rsecrist, did you ever get your 580 going? I have the same issue, except mine has come and gone for a couple of years, and finally totally quit. Exact symptoms as you describe here.
Well I broke a hose on the front of my old 580B case and replaced it along with filter in front of the radiator but still no movement front or reverse. seems to be no hydraulic fluid to shuttle shift. is there a priming I need to do ?
Stupid question did you refill torque tube with oil?
On our 91 mod 580k the solenoid wire grounds out from use or old age in certain gears,ours has the shifter on the armrest console on the right , I guess the wires cover is worn and only touches sometime or in certain positions,,if yours is neutral out try pushing the neutral out switch with it in gear and see if starts to work again while the switch is pushed in,,,if so you have your answer bad wire or the solenoid is going out
Very delayed response, sorry. A mechanic found that apparently 580K backhoes have a known problem where some bolts in a planetary gear in the transmission loosen up and then shear off. He pulled off a cover or panel and found that the heads of the bolts fell safely into the bottom of the transmission housing. He was able to reach in an remove all the broken bolt parts and then replace them without pulling the transmission from the backhoe. This is all based on vague memories and a check ledger entry from March 2013 to a Dave Burkholder at New State Enterprises. Cost me $1850. The problem was probably aggravated by my rapid FWD/REV shifting digging in the pond. FYI, I have the same situation again.
I think I missed your message originally. It cost me $1850 last time for in-place transmission repair. Once again, my backhoe won't move and I am going to try your suggestion and hope it is what the problem is.
Yes, I did. Dave Burkholder of New State Enterprises found some bolts sheared off in the transmission. Luckily, he was able to repair it in place, $1850. Been using it a lot, need it for moving logs to my sawmill, but now it is doing the same thing, won't move. Hope I find something simple and cheaper than last time.
Before you dive straight in the possibility of those broken bolts, make sure you check the rear axles again, as you did previously. Raise the machine off the ground & turn the wheels by hand - there should be a firm resistance. If a wheel spins freely, you will have a broken axle. Obviously, check the transmission cut-out operation & switches as well. I can't believe the repairer managed to pull the broken bolts from the crownwheel, without dismantling the transaxle! They should be loctited during assembly, making their removal a challenge.
Did you ever get yours figured out and fixed?
Little bit better news this time. I disconnected the clutch cutout solenoid and was able to drive it back up the hill to my workshop. Now I just need to track down the short or open from the clutch cutout pushbutton switch.
Likely to be a sticky transmission cut-out button. They should click on depress & again on release. Hearing a single click or none - it would need replacing.
I have a can of electronic contact cleaner. I'll try spraying some of that into the button. The wiring diagram shows a 2-pin connector in the pushbutton line. Any idea where that is located so I could check it with an ohmmeter? Thanks for the info. I'm glad that I was at least able to move it back up by my workshop.
Hey, good news! After spraying the pushbutton with contact cleaner both depressed and released, plus cleaning the 2-pin connector pair on the clutch cutout solenoid, the backhoe now seems to be working, moving. Will watch and see if it is permanent or temporary fix, but I am happy that I didn't have to call a mechanic. Alrman, I appreciate your suggestion.