First time posting. I just bought a 580 sd and the master cylinders are both bad. I took them off last night and the pitting was very minimal. Not sure if the problem was that the previous owner used brake fluid instead of mineral oil. Anyone have luck honing and replacing the seals? Any good source for buying a set of new ones at a better price than $220.00? Should I buy new slave cylinders at the same time? Any pros or cons to this machine over a 580b,c,e? Thanks, Mark
Welcome to HEF Case52! Any idea how long the brake fluid has been in? It's very unusual to have to replace the master cyls for pitting, thats a benefit of using mineral oil. Without seeing how bad it is it's hard to say, but if it is minimal & it were mine - a set of seals would be trired first. There is a hidden check valve inside the end of the cylinder where the pipe screws in, the seat for the pipe must be removed to gain access - put a long self tapping screw into it & then prise it out with pliers. Good idea to order a new seat with the valve & spring. The seal on the slaves is just an oring - you can pull one from an oring kit, if the boots/bellows are OK. Not much help to you regards other sources for parts - I'm sure someone else will assist. For their time, the 580D was years ahead of any other maker. Lets just say they were better than a B or C, but not as good as an E, with the CDC engine. :drinkup
Thanks alrman. This is my first backhoe and I am a handyman, not a mechanic. i'm afraid I will be on here a lot. The backhoe is in fair to good shape for the years and area that I live. Western Washington is very wet most of the year and this machine has minimal rust. The person I bought it from was a home owner with 5 acres and trees tha needed to have the stumps removed. Nothing too big though. He had it for 5 to 6 years. Before that it was a drilling companies backhoe. I ran across an employee of that company and he said they had it maybe 10 years or so and it got about 40 hours a year in use. He had no idea about any owners before that. The hour meter says 780 but by the condition I know it's more. Had a friend pick it up for me that does excavation for a living and he said the hoe pins were like new, so that was a good sign. There were brakes when I went to check it out, but they were soft. A week later when I got it home there was nothing. The fluid was full but there was noresistance when I pushed on the peddles. I removed the lines at the master cylinder like you had indicated. It just spit at me when I applied the peddles and that was sparatic. I pulled them and the dust/boot covering the rod from the peddle was worn and cracked. I pulled the clips and checke out the bores and only saw some rust/discoloration on part of the far end of one of the bores where you indicated the seal was. That seal is removed from the outside though, correct? The bore itself had some tiny pin size spots on the bottom towards the middle.Neither of the resivours had rust. The rods and large springs on the inside were clean. The seals looked as though they were wavy or had a texture like an old time bottle cap. the seal edge looked smooth though. Is this normal. I just don't understand why there wasn't any pressure when the inside didn't show obvious signs of wear. I have not done a thing with the slave cylinders. Is there a way of checking out how much brake remains in the transaxle without taking off the covers and removing them? The emergency brake doesn't work either. The adjustment knob is knarled up and can't be tightened any further. Haven't investigated that yet. I paid $4500.00 and from what I looked at before buying this one, it seemed a good price. Starts right up and doesn't smoke. No leaks in the motor or hydraulics. Just gotta get these brakes taken care of and get to work before the rain sets in. Money is an issue though and want the fix as smart as possible, but permanent. Thanks, Mark
Not sure what your describing - I spoke of the check valve #7 & the seat #8 Does the pic help?
I have been on the Case website and seen the components but are unsure of what to remove and what not to remove from the outer brake system Springs, Levers, adjustment nut, etc...) There is a dust boot at the top and cannot see if it is without flaws. Noticed this post in your CD manual thread - thought I would answer here - best for future reference. What exactly are your brakes doing or not doing? Sounds like you don't have pedal? Did you reseal master cyls? Have you managed to adjust them? There is no way of checking the brake linings without removal - but how much thread is past the adjusting nut? Be specific & help will come!
case52 try Joseph Industries for parts . i orderd from them $504.00 with shipping. from case $1300.00+txs. very nice to deal with very fast OHIO to ONTARIO CAN 2 days TB.
Yes, there was no peddle. Get master cylinder parts tonight. Will check the thread depth also. How do I adjust the brakes once I clean and re-bleed the system?
To adjust the brakes, you turn the adjuster(#7) clockwise. Adjust each side to an even pedal height. You must be able to depress the pedal about 3" before they lock up - any higher the brakes will drag & cause lock up when they heat up. BTW - if it still has the automatic adjusters on it - remove them - one side will always adjust more than the other & cause problems Install a locknut to stop adjuster movement - 7/16" unf (from memory)