I have some questions that I just can't get out of my head. A little premature perhaps but here they are. My backhoe sits up in NC, 700 miles away and is wrapped up for the winter. It is new to me last Sept, and I used it to clear some of the land we bought. One boom cylinder was leaking and I removed it and bought it back to FL. to rebuild it. Next May we will head back to the farm to do more work and I will install the rebuilt cylinder. One question is, how do I get the air bled out of the cylinder? Will it just return to the reservoir on it's own? Next question is, after checking all the fluids and installing the battery and before starting should I use the little pump handle to prime the injectors or will that do nothing? I also need to check on the right brake as it does not work. I have read all the post on the SE brakes and am still in the dark as to what I have, wet or dry. I do know that the hand brake is not on the drive shaft and the pedal goes down slightly when pressed and the hand brake is applied. I plan to look into it more up there but will most likely bring the entire brake ass'y back to FL to check it as we are out in the sticks and have no buildings yet electric power yet. Wet or dry, I am guessing when I open it up I will get a face full of oil because it may have a leaking seal. Does that sound right. I try an plan ahead and expect things to go wrong, having an alternate plan so we can keep on working. We have limited time to spend up there and we have a road to put in, a pond to dig out and a barn to build. If the backhoe goes down we are out of work. Oh and the nearest town is 23 miles away so we don't want to be running for parts. Any ideas on my questions would be greatly appreciated. Here is a link to how it is covered http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7010/6554263187_deb62b04e4_o.jpg I have 3 boxes of mothball inside and one thing I need to do is to inspect wires for rat damage.
On my 580SE I did not have to bleed anything. I did have to add hydraulic fluid because you will lose 1-3 gallons per cylnder. The serial number somehow tells wet/dry brakes. I found another way. Look at the large service decal on the lower left side of the cluster/operators station. They used two different decals for wet & dry brakes. Maybe in the lower left panel see if you can read the decal part number. D128927 = Dry brakes. D137462 = Wet brakes
I took photos of that decal but in the link below is the only number on any of them. Thanks for the information, http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7157/6557272497_76c7aaf3d4_o.jpg
Your decal is part # D123956 and I can't find that on a 580SE. What model is your machine? The 580SE decal I noted is huge and has sketches of the machine; grease points etc.
My machine is a 580SE 1983-4 and has a serial of 9077480. The large sticker is D123956 on the machine and in the link below it shows the same number in my manual where the sticker locations are described. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7161/6559135323_ea3093be9b_o.jpg In reading the manual it does not mention anything about oil in dis-assembly or assembly of the brakes on the axle. The brake cylinders appear to be the early style with no equalizer valve but rather have lines running straight to the cylinders on the axle assembly. My plan when I get back up there is to get under the axle and have my wife pump the right brake. I should see the lever move and if it does I will try and adjust it. If that fails, I will assume the assembly inside is shot. I am also hoping no one put the wrong fluid in the master cylinder. I'm not sure if that one is hydraulic or normal brake fluid but I will check that out before I do anything. I guess I will just have to wait out the winter in a warm climate as I would not want to be working on it in 20 degree weather.
Well, dogged if I know what you got. View attachment 580SE_Decals.pdf You can see from this parts sheet where I found the numbers. Items 54 & 54A. I can't find your decal number anywhere on any Case machine. I will look at my operators manual tonight.
My 580SE manual is clearly different to yours. I would guess you have dry brake just from the decal photo that says to use Case FDL fluid in the transaxle. I am still a bit unclear on the "PIN" numbers vs. the "Serial Numbers" With Wet brakes the Transaxle has to have special oil, NOT standard 90 weight gear oil. Maybe someone else will help verify what I am saying is correct.
PIN number is the Product Identification Number = machine serial number, on an E located on tag on chassis under LH step to cab. There are serial number tags on transaxle assemblies that ID the component only build (lower rear corner of transaxle - LH or RH ??? not sure). Wet brakes on an E start at transmission serial no 16276842 & after. The confusion about wet or dry brakes on an E only exists on the models with the disc type park brake set up - earlier model E's did not have this & these were all DRY brakes. syndy - if your hoe does not have a disc as does bowens (shown below) it is DRY . Bowen - not a good idea trying to id this problem using the service interval decal - with age of these machines the decal may not be the original + CNH love to change part numbers on things to keep everyone guessing.....
At this point and reading back over the manual I'm 100% sure I have dry brakes. As I said before, when I step on the brake pedal and apply the hand brake I can feel the foot pedal go down a little. The hand brake on mine connects to levers on a bar crossing the trans-axle. Applying the brake mechanically pushes on the plate that rotates pushing the steel balls against the brake clutch. Nothing like the photo above. If I remember right the trans-axle oil looked and smelled more like normal gear oil. In fact the manual calls for it. Thanks for waking me up to a lot of stuff here, knowing it's one thing eliminates a lot of guessing. I sit here wishing I could work on and use my Case, sort like the guy looking out the window at snow and ice on the lake and his boat sitting on a trailer. Spring is right around the corner.
Meaning it has left you scratching your head once or twice.
Well my PIN/SN is 17031150 and my manual says units BEFORE 17032504 use standard gear oil in the transaxle. (1st clue I have dry brakes) On mine this tag in on the RH side at the bottom corner of the transaxle. Mine TA is # A179041, S/N 16274426. You say after 16276842 the brakes are wet. (2nd clue I have dry brakes) My decal is in real bad shape but I can see the decal number #D128927 which from the parts list shows to be for Dry. (3rd clue I have dry brakes.) BTW this decal is $30 and I plan to order it. (I am 98% sure my decal is original) Yet with all this said my brakes work great and a mechanic helping me on the seals seen red locktite on the bottom of the brake housing and he says my brakes are almost for sure wet. And for further confusion when some oil drained out the lower splined park brake seal hole, he said it looks like someone had filled it with heavy gear oil. The only reason I need to know is that I am going to change the transaxle fluid and I have been warned that 85W-90 will destroy the brakes if they are wet.
Bowen, the tags confirm you have DRY brakes. The use of silicone on DRY brake housings is common to see - helps keep moisture out of the housings. Should gear oil be used on a WET brake transaxle , it won't destroy the brakes - you won't have it in long enough as the brakes simply wont pull the machine up. Don't forget about the breather hose fitted to the brake cylinder retaining bolt, as still another way to confirm DRY brakes. :drinkup