Did this machine have reverse thread on one of the wheels? I am trying to change the front right tire. It has been in place for at least 22 years. I have a very nice impact that can do almost 1200lbs of torque but it didn't budge so I stopped. I don't clearly see any marks to indicate reverse thread, but these have enough surface rust to make it unclear (I will replace once I remove) This is a private restoration for fun (don't even own land) so spending thousands on tools is haaaard to swallow.
first some Moveit then a breaker bar with a 10' pipe on the handle.
Even if the stud and nut are perfectly flush, you should be able to see enough of the thread to tell which way it goes. If it's a lug bolt, then look at the back of the hub. If a 1/2" breaker bar isn't enough, get a 3/4, if you've got a 3/4" get a 1"
front or rear ?
If they are left hand thread, it's because somebody changed the studs. Some heat on the nuts may make the difference in whether or not you break the studs.
None on mine are left handed thread
Unleash the torch, heat will be your friend on this job.
The front wheels have bolt like a European car, not studs and nuts, so there is no visible thread. I'm just overly cautious about direction given the level of torque needed. I don't believe they are reverse thread, but I wanted some reassurance before I tried something with that level of torque LOL. Front right. I ask because the only reverse thread I have ever encountered in my career was on the front right tires of some older trucks like my grandfathers '77 F600. Usually there are indents on the nuts/bolts that indicate if this is the case, but I can't make out clearly on these rusty bolts. No studs here, front tires use lug bolts like European cars. I don't have access to a real heat source, I'm not equipped for this, it's just an old tractor of my grandfathers I enjoy tinkering with. No use for it, and it's hard to justify spending much on a truly useless machine just because of nostalgia. Thank you! Can't be tight if it's liquid right Someone stole my gauges/hose/etc so all I am left with a pair of tanks and a propane torch. I should try that. I do want to learn to weld some day.
If all else fails remove the hub and wheel and take it a machine shop. The stud can be drilled the depth of the nut and then removed from the hub. I would prolly do it myself ifn it were mine.
You can get good heat out of mapp gas.
Left hand threads are less common, because these go backwards as much as forwards, and even forwards isn't a consistent vibration. Turn them counterclockwise until one comes loose or breaks. Penetrating oil from the back can make a big difference if you have days to let it soak.
A Case 580SE has lug bolts, no nuts. Hit the head of it squarely with big azz hammer several times. If you have a B&O hammer use that on the bolt head and it with the big hammer. NO B&O ? Use sort steel rod. WEAR EYE PROTECTION !! I guarantee it will come loose.
The hammer idea is excellent A torque multiplier might be the affordable answer to more power