Just blew my alternator while using the "starting" function of my Schumacher charger/starter. FYI the last two Schumacher chargers I've bought have been junk and this last one has caused damage to two different vehicles using the "starting" function. Is my best best just biting the bullet and buying new from the dealer for the whole alternator? Are there other options for alternator parts (regulator, diode plate) that maybe cheaper than dealer. (those two parts cost nearly as much as a whole new alternator. THanks
Ask around and see if their is an automotive electrical shop in your area that fixes alternators. Even if you want to fix it yourself, they can usually get you the parts.
I think some of the alternators are common that may even be available from automotive places. Napa, Pep Boys, Orelli, etc. Here we have a small shop that does radiators, alternators, batteries, etc. I would take the unit to them so they can test it and replace or repair it as necessary.
It may have only taken out the voltage regulator. There are two screws that hold on the back of the alternator and it can be removed and replaced without takeing out the alternator. The regulator is about $26.00 at NAPA
Thanks for all the replies..I didnt' consider NAPA for parts for this. CASE prices for the diode plate and for the regualtor are tremedously high. CASE sells the alternators rebuilt for 150 bucks. I like the NAPA idea way better. Thanks for the advice. PS...I still need an electrical schematic for this thing so I can fix my lights and emergency brake alarm (when I try to drive with the brake on). How similar would the series 1 model be to the series 2 (that I have) as far as wiring and schematics?
Today I got to troubleshooting the alternator. Took it off and took it to Autozone...they were able to test it out with some guessing on pins but the alternator checks out fine..65 amps and 14.5volts. So, now I really need a schematic. Must be a fuse or bad connector. Troubleshooting got cut short today when it started to rain. Oh, FYI, NAPA only had very limited parts and nothing for the 580SL
Check for power at the field terminal at the alternator.If you have no power there you may have a blown fuse or alt relay.
Thanks for the advice..I'm sure that's it. Now to find the cause. Tach not working, alternator light not on or any idiot lights (FYI the W terminal on the alternator is for the tach)...This all worked when I parked it. Opened the fuse block for the first time and its scary looking with dirt accumulated EVERYWHERE. I've got lots to do. I'm a little afraid to pull anything until I get it cleaned up with compressed air and maybe a brush. After that I think I'll toothbrush it all with alcohol. The boot missing on the hand brake lets the elements into the fuse block area. Didn't realize that or I would have made getting a new boot a priority. Once I get a repair manual (soon hopefully), I'll be able to troubleshoot a little smarter.
Ok, so do a simple test before you do anything else. Clean the negative battrie post and cable clamp and see if that cures the problum. The next step, if that dont work, use a set of jumper cables and hook one end to the neg post on the batt and the other end to a clean spot on the engine near the alt and see if everything works. It sounds like you may have a bad ground some were. Clean the fuse box up after as it sounds like it needs it. Part of trouble shooting is to not change to many things, blindly, at once tring to cure the problum. Electrical systems are in essance a big circle that start at the battrie and end at the battrie. If the ground is bad, it wont finish the circle and nothing will work. I hope this helps.
First thing I did yesterday (before taking the alternator off) was to get the battery (new last year) situated and install the new heated battery blanket I bought. Good ground to frame as it turns over great and all connections were cleaned up and made tight. Assuming the alternators uses its bolts and mounting for its ground return so it should be good but I can check continuity with my meter as soon as weather permits again. Remembering from my old car days, the alternator light lights up because 12V is applied to it and if the alternator is not also making 12V then the path to ground is through the field terminal of the alternator. Just the fact that there is no alternator light means there's an alternator ground problem or more likely, no 12 volts going to the alternator light meaning also that no 12V is going to the field coil. This would also explain the "no tachometer" issue. I do have an electrical background but having a schematic makes troubleshooting so much easier. I do have a habit of assuming what is wrong first without testing my theory. Glad I didnt' buy a new alternator just to find out it wasn't that at all. thanks for your input.. Now its just a hands on troubleshooting exercise. I'll report back here what I find..maybe show some pictures of the fuse block mess too!!
There are also ground straps from the engine to the frame and the engine to the cab. going from the batt to engine and batt to cab with jumpercables would elemanate both of these grounds as good or bad. These ground straps could cause the same simptom, Ive seen it in the past, mostly with older machines.
I'll make sure I check for good bonding between all major components. The fact that it starts OK means that theres a good ground to the starter (whatever that means) but if there's a bad ground to the cab then some relays may not engage that might cause my exact problem. Thanks for the advice!! This forum and the help available makes owning an older piece of equipment a lot easier!!
Update...I got a schematic and its a pretty simple circuit. Everything checks out except the alternator light does not come on. I believe that the field winding needs to have the light working for this to charge. Tonight I will check the bulb. There's not much left that can be wrong??
It's fixed!! The contacts on the ALT light needed cleaned. Cleaned it all up, re-installed. turned on the key and now I have ALT light working..started it and the alternator is alternating (14.5V). Dirty contacts on the ALT bulb. Wish the wheel wells were sealed better against dirt and whatnot. I cant believe its cool to leave a no cab hoe out in the weather...even the parking brake slot is open and can let rain water into the area above the fusebox. Scary that the electrical works at all after this many years.