Just bought a Case 650K series 3 with some electrical issues that I am trying to sort through. 1st thing I was trying to accomplish was getting the machine to start from the key. Ignition works because I can start the machine by jumping power to the solenoid, hydraulic funtions work. List of things that are wrong: I don't get power to the white wire going to the solenoid, machine will not travel, drive speed indicator pointing straight down(joy stick was replaced), display shows "N" when the key is first turned on but quickly goes away, menu buttons do not work so I can't see codes, light switch and lights work, trans fault light comes on after a few seconds of the key being turned on plus a number of other things. I'm trying right now just to get the thing to start from the key if possible. 4 relays in the left fuse panel click when ignition is turned on and also when turning the key to start. Just want to get the conversation started and hopefully a little guidance as I try to sort through all of this stuff. Machine has 950 hours. Serial # CAL012256
Well the first thing to do is, and you've probably done this already is check all fuses and relay function. If you don't have a relay tester I would suggest you get one or at least rig up some jumper wires to do test with. Do you have a service manual yet? The drive train controller is under the cover in the left console check all your connections also. There are threads on here that cover the testing and wiring of the 650K and 850k machines.
Thanks Coy, I do have a manual and just got the schematics blown up on blueprint paper. I haven't made it back to the machine since the post but this weekend I'll be working on it. I'll know more by Monday. Thanks again
All relays test good and fuses replaced. Got as far as verifying that I have power to the transmission control module at the harness side. Noticed that the right proximity switch doesn’t light up orange or green. Still doesn’t start with the key but relays click when I turn the key to ignition and I hear clicking again when I turn the key to start. No power at white wire on stared solenoid.
If the one safety switch is not lighting up green then the start circuit will not engage. Test that switch and circuit.
The right side proximity switch (smooth grey sheathing over blue black and brown)wires were severed and someone tried repairing them and did a terrible job. Two of the wires were not connected. I’ll get that fixed before I move forward. also noticed what appears to be two additional relays wired in from behind the fuse panel. Not sure yet what they are for because I don’t see them on the schematic. I’ll add pics when I figure out how to do that
Looks almost like a 1650L panel. I believe one of those relays your circled is the start relay itself.
Case had some issues with wiring on these machines and had to add relays to certain circuits so it's probably an update. Maybe start circuit and A/C if equipped or park brake. I know there were a lot of issues with condenser motor circuits burning the wires and melting fuses in early models.
Got the right side proximity switch replaced and the orange/green lights are working on both sides like they should now. Machine still doesn't start from the key nor does it travel.
Anyone know if it is possible to get the instrument cluster and the joystick tested ?
There is a ohm and voltage test for the joystick in the service manual other than that I don't know of any way to test either of them off the machine. The only other way is to swap them to a known good machine if you have one close and owner agrees.
I located the "CAN" resistor in the back of the dash and it doesn't have continuity, zero ohms. White wire has 3.6v black wire has 4.1v. That's with the key on, safety levers up
Anyone happen to know the specifics on those CAN BUS resistors other than being 120 ohm?
Trying to get this plug apart is a nightmare! The manual refers to these connectors as C4 and M10. My open circuit testing guide led me to this particular connector next and its not wanting to come apart, I'm afraid I'll damage it if I pry too hard. Anyone know if they require a special tool to get them apart?
Did you check for a allen head screw in the center of connector?
I didn’t Coy but that’s a good idea Thanks
Got It Coy, there is a bolt right through the center! Thanks a lot man!
The CAN resistor definitely could be the problem for no movement forward or backwards. Mine on my 850k corroded into. Also you'll need to pull the dash completly off an very throughly ck every wire in it as they are very bad at chaffing into. I had to pretty much completely rewire mine.Hope the images help...good luck.
Thanks Katfish, good info
What does a flashing “F” mean on the dash? Also, no power to menu switches, Horn, warning buzzer. Can’t see codes because I cannot get power to the buttons
Flashing F on left side of dash indicates it’s in forward travel. Or for some reason it “thinks” it’s in forward travel. Could explain why it won’t start with the key.
The flashing F or R means the selector is in F or R but DTC is not allowing dozer to go into gear for what ever reason. Check your safety switches and park brake switch and relay.
Got it moving!! Parking brake pressure solenoid and a new joystick did the trick. The start relay socket was too loose and had to be replaced as well. Starting from the key now but its intermittent. Still no power to the menu buttons.
Anyone heard of any other issues on this model machine causing FNR joy sticks to fail pre mature?
The design of the FNR switch is a major issue. Ya gotta remember this machine may be dressed up in Case paint but they're all Kobelco underneath.
That's good to know Coy, I used a tester to see if the machine would move and it did work. What I am afraid of is the machine having an underlying issue that causes the FNR to fail. I haven't actually purchased a new FNR yet until I can hopefully know that the new one wont fail after a short period. The starting on the machine works intermittently also. Case mechanic said the slots where the relays plug in are a bit loose is possible reason for the intermittent starting because everything is getting proper voltage. The machine should still start with a bad joy stick correct?
Also, why would the warning buzzer, horn and menu buttons not be getting power? I'll be trying to diagnose these the next couple days
Check you wiring harnesses for dash to make sure your getting voltage to all switches.
No voltage to any switches, Horn or buzzer. Only thing I can figure is burned wires. Gotta go through them one by one tomorrow because all the fuses and relays are good.