Case didn't use modern valve steam seals on the 188/207d. Should I ask the machine ahop to use modern seals or use the old style " seals " Seems OK to reuse the head bolts? case doesn't call them to be replaced and are not tty bolts.
Modern seals are probably better. Clean holes in block for bolts and if they wanted them changed, would probably be in overhaul instructions. Unless if you see some damaged. Simon C
Years ago we did not replace many head bolts. Then some times those Cummins broke bolts. In latter overhaul kits they had bolt gauges for length. If they are longer than the gauge replace them. Maybe just line all your bolts side to side and look for stretched ones. Good question. I never thought about that.
Case wants $60 per bolt, they are odd leingths. I'd have to do test fits if I went with ARP or similar bolts.
On a high hour engine I prefer, and have replaced the valve guides, seats, springs and the valves. I never have had any blow-by after doing heads like like that. Never have installed seals on them. I had to buy one of those $60 head bolts because one of them was badly eroded from coolant getting on it Other than that particular motor I used the all the rest of the old ones. I did install Perfect Circle valve stem seals on a small block Chevy that I built for drag racing many years ago. I believe they are still available. A small amount of machining is required before installing them.
Yeah I go back and forth about the seals. The engine will probably fail before the old style seals / guides fail again. They didn't use modern seals to prevent valve sticking. Surprising the pistons and cylinders look good considering how much oil was going through it. Still has chome lined sleves. Was going to order springs from Hagan with the rocker arm kit. Looking at the bolts today they all look good, just need a cleaning.
I don't think valve stem seals do anything to prevent the valves from sticking. They only minimize oil from going into the guides. Only rarely have I seen sticking valves, and the result is bent push-rods. Wraped stems are the common cause of sticking valves. That is why I install new valves and springs.
Stopped at the machine shop the other day and dropped off the head. The guy confirmed what I thought, he didn't recommend moden seals. He said especially if it sits for a a while condensation could cause the valves to stick.
I'm resembling everything and the tube from the timing cover to water pump housing stayed in the timing cover. I was going to just put some rtv on the tube and install the pump housing but there's an o-ring in the timing cover. Should I leave it alone it try and pull it out? Worst case I have to make a new one if I mangle it.
I wouldn't take a chance. I would remove the tube and O ring. Put the tube in where it belongs with properly applied black RTV. Put a super thin coating of RTV on the new O ring and assemble it the way Case designed it to be. Black RTV needs to cure 1 hour before reassembly.
It seems quite stuck in the timing cover tapped it with a hammer and tried some pliers. Put some liquid wrench on it, I'll see if it loosed up tomorrow.
She's stuck good, got a rocket socket to bite but couldn't free it up. Guess I'll file it back and use some right stuff hope for the best.