Hi folks, I am working on a Case sr130 skid steer that has an issue of unable to open the 4 in 1 bucket. I has been to 1 other place to get it working but it's not playing the game. Someone has run a wire to bypass the existing wiring to a couple of solenoids. I believe someone has already swapped out the toggle switch with a new one on the hand piece. The machine operates as per normal with the other operations. I have tried to look at the most common issues without any luck. Does anyone have a wiring schematic by any chance I can download? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Cheers Jason.
Are you switched two way controls, or staying on one way?
Hi there, It sounds like you've already done a fair bit of troubleshooting. You might waht to consider some steps that could help you resolve the issue with your skid: Check the Wiring Bypass Since someone has already bypassed the existing wiring, verify that the bypass is properly connected and that there are no loose or damaged wires. A faulty bypass could interfere with the solenoid's operation. Test the Solenoids Use a multimeter to test the solenoids controlling the 4-in-1 bucket to ensure they are functioning correctly. They might need replacement if they are not engaging properly. Inspect the Relay and Fuses Verify that the relay and fuses related to the 4-in-1 bucket system are intact and functioning. Sometimes a simple fuse replacement can solve the issue. Hydraulic Flow Check the hydraulic system to ensure proper flow and pressure to the bucket. A blocked or malfunctioning valve could prevent it from operating. Toggle Switch Wiring Since the toggle switch has already been replaced, confirm that it's wired correctly and sending a signal to the solenoids when engaged. For your wiring schematic request, you might find resources through Case IH's official website, or you could try contacting a local dealer. Unfortunately I cannot help you with that.
Hi mate, All I know is that you flick the switch on the right hand joy stick and the bucket won't open. I do not understand what you mean sorry. Is there another way you could explain it please? Thank you.
Hi XPU, I used a multimeter on the toggle switch, I got some resistance readings but I don't know what the values are to compare it. What is the best way to test the solenoids? I bought a weather proof plug today to get some terminals out of the pack so I can try & make some testing wires & power them up. Again, If I knew the resistance values of the solenoids I could eliminate the issue there. I did find the fuse/relay block, I did have a poke with a test light but nothing was lighting up plus it was the end of the day & was getting a bit weary. (its 39c-42c over here). I didn't think to ask a dealer for help but I am at the stage I reckon I will have to. I was under the impression that dealers keep alot of information to themselves & not share, I guess there is only one way to find out! Thank you.
A quick way to test the solenoids is to apply direct power to them using the testing wires you're planning to make. Connect them directly to a 12V or 24V source (depending on your machine's system voltage) and listen for a clicking sound when power is applied. The click indicates that the solenoid is engaging. If there’s no sound, it could be faulty. Solenoid resistance values typically vary depending on the model, but for most machines, they fall between 5-30 ohms . If you can measure the resistance with your multimeter, compare it to this range. A significantly higher or lower reading could indicate an issue. However, checking with a dealer or service manual for the exact specifications of your machine would be ideal. Since nothing lit up with your test light, try testing the relays and fuses individually when you're feeling fresher. Swap a suspect relay with another of the same type to confirm if it's the issue. Also, ensure that the test light or multimeter is grounded correctly during testing.
Hey @Beechy SR130 Welcome to HEF There is a small module that controls the aux circuit. 9 times out of 10 if the switch is ok - it is the problem. Unfortunately, I only "test" the module by plugging in another one. Finding it's location is also an issue, they are often stuck to the underside of panel work. If the wiring has been altered you may need to return it to standard. First pic below shows approximate location (which doesn't really help.... ) & second pic shows what you are looking for - it's about 4-5" long. There are 2 different part numbers listed for this machine - so you may need to get a number off the existing one to be sure you have the correct one. cheers
Thank you XPU, I appreciate your info!
G'day Alrman,This info is awesome! I can work with your wiring diagram & hunt the little bugger down! I am most grateful for everyone's input. Thank you,
Hey Alrman, Silly question, do you have a wiring diagram by any chance? Thanks, Jason P.S, If you do I'll shout you a bundy! lol
Hi XPU, I tested the solenoids, they seem to be working when i power them up with a battery pack. I looked at the driver that Alrman suggested... The local Case dealer wants $700 Au for it... I have figured out that the black with a White tracer maybe 12v?? I did a ohms test on the toggle switch again to make sure & nothing is happening. I thought I would get some sort of fluctuation in value but I have not, So I am guessing there is something that isn't turning something on... The other thing i noticed, on the pillar control panel, there is a hydraulic symbol flashing even when I have turned the hand brake off. Thanks, Jason