I was using the machine for about 10 minutes, I shut it down and came back to move it after 30 minutes and it wouldn't start. -I have codes 1051 & 9153 -I have checked every fuse and all are good -I have swapped every relay that is behind the operator kick plate with a relay that I know is good -The battery is charged and connections are tight -The machine is stored indoors and almost never gets wet -The engine bay and belly is due to be cleaned but not packed with tons of mud or dirt From what I've been reading online, it seems like it's going to be a remote or hard to find electrical issue but there's not a lot of info out there on this particular problem. Hoping somehow has some advice or experience on this exact problem and the fix. Or possibly a wiring diagram....
I would start by verify you have 12 volts with key on at your ignition fuse, ECU fuse and ECU relay fuse with key on. I would also check your main relay but it sounds like you've already done this all. You can also check the CAN datalink. Key off you should see roughly 120 ohms of resistance between pins C and D on the diagnostic plug. If its way off, I'd start checking the CAN wiring from the ECU.
Had some bad weather blow through so I had to wait for it to pass. I've got 12 volts at the ignition fuse. I don't see a fuse for the ECU relay but there are two ECU fuses and when I first check them, both had four volts but then drop down to 0.1 volts. I have about 60 ohms between pins c&d on that diagnostic plug, if I'm doing this correctly.
Ok I think I gave you some bad info. 60 ohms at pins C and D is good. Each of the two resistors in the CAN network are 120 ohms. If both are present then you will see 60 ohms there. My apologies.
I'm thinking those ECU fuses should be feeding 12 volts to the modules. If a module doesn't power up, you will see those CAN timeout and ECU not communicating error codes pop up.
No worries! Any ideas why there would not be 12 volts fed to the fuses? Any typical issues you've seen?
Ok I worked on a TV380 with no start. It had blown the accesories fuse if I remember right. It blew the fuse 2 more times about 2-3 minutes after starting. Pulled the accessory relay and with a 45 degree o-ring pick carefully tightened up the receiver pins for the relay. They are tiny for size and you will not be able to feel if 1 is loose when relay is pushed into it. I did a few of the relay bases at the same time. I do not like the physical size of these relays or the connectors they push into. Anyways did that to the machine and it has not died since or blown a fuse. 10 months ago. Maybe yours is a different problem. The machine had no power to the insrumentation panel. Simon C
Your last sentence said it all....I have power to the instrument panel. I hit the power button and everything lights up and then the codes start popping
Sorry , don't know what the codes listed are for. Would be nice if dealer would give some info. Did not get much help from dealer around here when I worked on a unit. Keep us posted.
Codes are related to no engine ECU communication on the CAN network.
Just watched a video and a mouse cut through 2 wires on C&C Equipment on You Tube. May not be your problem, but if there is any mouse droppings in the pan it is possible. I have 2 purchased PDF schematics for Case TR320 and TR380, but your TR310 is not listed but may have some similarities. I find that I can follow their schematics, but prefer Cat or John Deere. I have not worked on these Can Networks. Sorry Simon C
I can't even lift the cab to see if there are any droppings. We have had mice chew through wiring on vehicles on our property before but now our barn cats keep them away, where I park this thing. A wiring diagram would make a huge difference but I have failed to find one....
I bought mine right from a Case dealer in PDF Form for $90 Canadian. Go to the Case Dealer Document Management Center, you will put in the type of machine, Case TR310, Then under type put in Service Manual, Under Language put in English, Under region put in North America, Under product line put in Skid Steers/Compact Track. There will be a long list of machines by serial number and Type. If that does not work get a hold of a Case Dealer and ask for just the electrical schematic. That is what I did and they sent it to me. ( $90) Simon C
Update: I had trouble finding the wiring harness and I had a huge work load that I was committed to so I had to drop it at the dealer to get a diagnosis. They removed the wiring harness and found three spots where wires were shorting/grounding. They charged me $1800 to fix it. Thank everyone for your input!
Their schematics and wiring harnesses are less than adequate, compared to some I have worked on. Glad you got it going with their help. Simon C
Understatement. Their schematics are terrible a lot of the time.
did they put a new harness in or repair the original one? how much labor and at what rate? I have one with the same codes. This one still runs but throttle function is intermittent...
What harness did you have to replace?
Do you remember what spots in the harness was rubbed and shorting? Having the same issues. It does it every time I hit a good bump but here recently it started doing it more often just running the machine and now I cat get the codes to go away. Please help!
They did not tell me which part of the wiring harness they repaired. When I got the machine back I specifically asked where and they said that the technician was off and would get back to me but he never did.
If you have the schematic and lots of time you could test wires from one end to another with each wire disconnected from system and tested with a 3-5 amp test lamp to see which wire draws more amps then the test light itself. Simon C