Started lowering my SK transaxle yesterday.Rod/bolt system working well,just takes time.Got a jack under the nose to keep it level . Something gone pear shaped with my brakes although a workshop replaced seals and discs .
My trumpet bolts must be in with locktite.Is it safe heat the bolts head with propane torch to get heat through to the threads
A good 3/4 dr impact gun should be all that is required. *TIP - one bolt is shorter than the rest. Be sure of its location.
I have a 1/2” that gives 850nm and a short 1000nm setting,nothing . I bent my breaker bar ,its a lightweight though
I have to do this job yet to repack the o rings for my brakes so they stop leaking. Not looking forward to it and I am becoming a master at procrastinating this job! Post lots of pictures as you go!!
I’m also thinking that I might be doing this with 6500 hours on my SL. I’ll need to do some more testing before I can confirm it’s necessary. I’ll be watching and wishing you the best of luck!
I thought lowering it was going to be a challenge,not at all ,been easy .Those M24 8.8 rods work like a charm.Double nuts at the top prevent rod from turning and lube bottom one with hydraulic oil . I should have had the brakes out yesterday,but trumpet bolts thrown me a curveball.Going to look for a breaker bar today and a torch . This job was done by a workshop with new brake seals and discs supplied by myself .I don’t know what’s gone wrong,my pedal just hit the floor like a line had popped with oil just disappearing to no end .No popped line ,so must be the piston seals. What a don’t like is the hydraulic oil came out grey .Screen filter had a little fine metal sludge.torque converter filter has black gue .Going to have to clean most crap out as possible.
Propane is working .I have 4 left.Hopefully keeps going well,that chap called Murphy.Rain has come so no more for today.
Opened up ,steel paste sitting at the bottom.One side of the brake disc completely worn off on the piston side. I know what caused it ,,,,the reactive pins . We made new ones at engineering,not knowing that the factory ones have a plunger in the core .Know it now from the manual and parts diagram. Pressure from the piston chewed everything up .Need new pistons to .Expensive lesson. Part supplier recommendation side would be welcome .I have emailed broken tractor,there web page blocks me from SA
Closed up for now ,gad to make a special hi tech gasket . Awaiting brake pistons from Case .The rest went for aftermarket from Blumaq.Including shuttle clutches,charge pump and torque converter. The brand new side Chowed side ♂️
FYI - the double circlips fitted to the adjuster pins should be visible - on the outer side of the piston. Likely, the other side has been assembled in the same way........ I hope you are going to remove the rear cover & clean out the metal sludge from there as well?
Morning.Yes,that mistake was made,discovered after getting a manual.My pins that we made are to tight in the bore aswell and don’t move like they supposed to I’m replacing piston,discs,seals both sides and cleaning everything up that I can get to .
Fittted one to see how everything works
Just to be sure - there are 2 x circlips on each pin
After a long absence,winter,been away and doing other farm stuff ,finally got back to mechanical work . Transaxle assembly all back together with new brake parts from Case.Cleaned the unit out of all sludge.That stuff goes everywhere. Made a 5mm hole into the torque converter drained and flushed it.Fitted a grub screw as a drain plug. Cleaned charge pump out as well .Going to try pump oil through the oil cooler to get dirty oil out.
Thank you for the posts. Seems sudden loss of brakes is an occurance once the wear material is gone - is what happened to our machine. Curious does your shift lever for the manual transmission poke through the floor board or does it appear near the console? Am wondering if you have the early trans or the late trans for the K model. I have the early and the torque converter has a drain plug.
Hi .I have the phase III with power shift.Gear lever on the side console.Transaxle is one mama block of steel ♂️ I had to do something to clean the converter.Small hole did the trick.Im going to replace it at a later stage,it’s getting on in age
This is the grub screw.Its not threaded all the way through so it tightens up.Hopefully no leak .
Morning everyone.Spent a few hours digging earth dam yesterday,everything went well.Still a bit sluggish up embankment but seems it’s in there nature of the beast from general reading. One thing I didn’t manage to fix is the filter switch for the drive hydraulics.The o ring looks worn so I’m surmising that the switch can’t open for the light to go out on the dash.Has anyone found a replacement for this non standard looking rubber o ring .