Have this Case W 14 Payloader-just bought--doesn't have any brakes. Don't have the book yet. There is an air pump that runs off the engine via belt. The belt is missing and the master cylinder is empty of brake fluid. QUESTION----Is this air pump a part of the braking system or is it used for emergency braking in case the motor stops. Do I need the air pump to have braking???? Thank you for any help. len in michigan
The W14 uses an air over hydraulic system - without air the system will not operate. If the master cylinders are empty, you probably have a leak somewhere & if they have been empty for some time, the cylinders may need repair also. How do people let something like that happen? No brakes??? Crazy... :beatsme
Working flat ground, they use the transmission and bucket for braking.... seen it many times :badidea
If the machine has set for a long time the brake fluid may have evaporated. I would try fluid first before you tear them down. You might get lucky.
Did Case use brake fluid or hydraulic? Ran into one loader, I think it was CAT, somebody put the wrong fluid in, dissolved the seals from one end to the other. Needed a brake job anyway, LOL
Good point. I am not sure. I suppose there is a chance it could be hyd. I have a Ranger skidder with the hyd brake in side of the back of the transfer case and the master cylinder calls for tranny fluid so anything is possible.
W14 will use brake fluid - 100% certain. :thumbsup
Thanks for the info. on this braking-----I am working on mostly level ground--just need a little braking when getting close to my dump truck to load. Just use this loader for my own enjoyment out of my own pit. I would like to have brakes on at least the front or the back. Can it be set up to just have brakes on the front or back and if that can be done--what would be the best to fix----FRONT OR BACK. SOME WILL THINK THIS IS CRAZY , but it stays on my property and just loads my own truck. Thank you for any help.........................
Thanks for the info. on this braking-----I am working on mostly level ground--just need a little braking when getting close to my dump truck to load. Just use this loader for my own enjoyment out of my own pit. I would like to have brakes on at least the front or the back. Can it be set up to just have brakes on the front or back and if that can be done--what would be the best to fix----FRONT OR BACK. SOME WILL THINK THIS IS CRAZY , but it stays on my property and just loads my own truck. Thank you for any help.........................
I would start with a belt on the pump and fill and bleed the brakes to see what you got. When your books come in they will explain the procedure. You may find that it easier to fix the brakes and have all 4 easier than trying to set up just one end. Often it seems on equipment that folks have a minor brake issue and never fix it because the machine still runs and moves. I do wonder if the pump is bad causing the belt removal. Does it turn over by hand?
Old-iron habit---thanks for the thoughts--the air motor rolls over good and makes a sucking type sound when I rotate it. There are 3 hold down bolts on the pump and they are for tightening the belt. One of those 3 studs has been broken off-----don't have a clue how that would ever happen. Guessing that is the reason the belt is off the pump.. That part of the tractor where the broken stud is located--I think is the top of the water pump. It probably is a type of cast iron. A magnet will stick to it. I am thinking of welding a stud back in there and have the threads sticking up thur the tightening plate. Originally a stud was down into threads--Threads are gone as well as a small part of that casting. Do you think a stud could be welded in there--if it is cast iron???? Once I get the motor back on and the belt I will test to see if I have pressure in the air tank. len in michigan
S Can you post a picture of the broken stud area. I'm sure one of the great minds on here will know how to make a reliable repair.
I would avoid trying to weld something in if at all possible. Maybe file the top flat and try to redrill and tap if there's enough metal left, just be careful to leave a 1/4" or so in the bottom to keep the water in, or use permatex sealant when installing a new stud. Couple washers to shim up under the plate if need be. Book says 7/16" bolts, might want to take a look at whether or not there's enough diameter to take it out to 1/2" coarse. Not sure which version you have, but the earliest shows no other support for that plate, later parts diagrams show a support link underneath the compressor to help hold the load, might be something to look at adding if there's a handy bolt or stud under there someplace on the front cover to anchor to. Also looks like they put a reinforcing plate over top of the three slots in the plate? Must have been a common failure point.