I am trying to install a replacement 504BD engine in a machine that had an engine previously removed. Can someone tell me how to attach the flex plate to the flywheel, I'm assuming thru the bell housing. Is it done thru the starter port? Seems extremely difficult and I have not gotten much help from the local dealer (they say it's an older machine they have little experience with). Enclosed are pics. Thanks for the assistance.
Did you take these pics? or were they supplied to you? Going from memory, There is often a rectangular shaped access plate on the housing in the middle pic? Some also had a removable plate under the bellhousing (pic below) That flexplate looks like it's broken? The bolts go through the flywheel & screw into threaded holes in the flexplate.
Not sure on Case but a lot of them have a threaded plug or a plate on the engine look on the opposite side from the starter
I took the pictures. There is no access into the bell housing other than the starter port. Also the bolts on the flex plate brackets and the flywheel are different threads. Jigsaw puzzle. I appreciate your input.
Some of these loaders did not use a flex plate you may have the wrong bell housing.
Are the flywheel holes threaded ? The parts manual clearly shows that the bolt slips thru the flywheel holes and screws into the flex plate. Be sure to notice that there are three flex plates in the assembly. You may have the wrong flywheel if the holes are threaded. Click your mouse pointer on the images to enlarge them.
When you have the engine bolted to the bell housing I think you will see where the access plate should be. Whoever removed the engine may have lost track of where the access plate is. You may have to make one to cover the hole on reassembly. Both of these images are from the CNH parts book for a Case W20C wheel loader.
What is difficult to determine is how to get the bolts thru the back of the flywheel that fasten to the flex plate when the clearance will not allow for it as well as no access once the bell housing is installed. Do you have a diagram of the access plate?
Is this the original engine you are installing?
The original engine has a bad block and crank. I'm using a running 504BDT engine I removed from a Case tractor. The flywheel from the old engine bolted up to the replacement engine.
I guess the question is were the bellhousings the same?
I plan to use the original bellhousing and flex plate.
Sorry I don’t have any further insights. There has to be a way though.
The bell-housing that you now have may not be the original one that Case installed at the factory. This is one of the possibility's that make it difficult to figure out how to put it back together from a computer. I do not have a drawing of the access plate other than what is in the parts book image I posted. I don't know what you mean by "how to get the bolts thru the back of the flywheel". They go thru from the front of the flywheel. If there is no access plate then you have the tedious task of installing one bolt at a time thru the starter opening in the bell-housing. I am inclined to think that when you get the engine back in and bolted up to the transmission that the access opening will be obvious to see. Those parts books are very accurate when it comes to detailed lay-outs of individual parts and how they line up.
I'm feeling good that I solved my dilemma on the connection of the flywheel to the flex plate and am preparing for assembly but I discovered that the flywheel once torqued down causes the engine to not rotate. Does it need to be shimmed?
I have never heard of shims between a crankshaft and flywheel flange. Torque it down and determine where it is binding. The crankshaft flange may be allowing the flywheel to bind against the block. If you have the original motor you can do some careful measurements on both engines to see if there is difference in the flange distances from the block.
I tried putting a washer spacer in between the flywheel and crankshaft, this allows engine to rotate freely, thus it seems the clearance is the issue. Would gasket material work for a permanent solution?
No, no gasket material. The correct distance of the flywheel in relation to the bell-housing face is a critical distance. Changing that distance even a few thousandths of an inch will put undue stress on the flex-plate. That in turn will cause it (the flex-plate) to fail. You can do whatever you want or need to do to get the flywheel to turn but that flex-plate is a weak link in the power transfer if it isn't set correctly.
There may be a spec on that engine for end play on the crank that needs to be maintained.If my memorie servs me right when we reinstall the torque on a Jimmy we look for 5 thou. end float with a dial indicator after all is done up. Even though it turns you can seize things up with out proper end play. I know this dosent help with your initial problem, buts its something to watch for.
Are the flywheel bolts too long? - those crankshafts don't have blind holes for the flywheel. They maybe just touching the block. Try putting a hardened steel washer under the head of each bolt & see what happens. Doing this can make the heads interfere with the heads of bolts in the converter - so if this adding a washer works, you will need to shorten all the flywheel mounting bolts.
Im going to just sit here and watch you guys at work.
Had a similar problem with a john deere where the flywheel was catching on the starter turned out be a bent crankshaft and worped block $$$$
I'm done working on this one.