Case W20c with A504BD engine, water started showing up in the oil, I pulled the heads and one gasket came out in three pieces. The heads tested ok, I surfaced the block and heads with a polishing wheel, reassembled and torqued the heads, adjusted the valves and drained, flushed oil system and cooling system. I still have water showing up in oil and leaving cooling systems. I am not a "real" mechanic, this is the farthest I have been into an engine. Where do I look for the problem and how do I test???
no-no from everything I've read, but you might get away with it. Assuming this is a wet sleeve engine, you can pull the oil pan and pressurize the cooling system to see if the bottom of the liners are dripping. Did you check the block with a straight edge, and check the liner protrusion?
Kind of think you are going to find a pin hole in one of the cylinder liners, or a set of leaking o- rings, lower chamfer rust and corrosion. The only thing other is a oil cooler issue leaking. How many hrs on the unit, and last time it had pistons and sleeves installed if known, how long have you owned it. Most of the engines had to be removed from the frame to get the oil pan and oil pump off. We would set the engine out, remove the pan and hand pump the cooling system. With the pan off you can get a good look at the lower end to see where the water is leaking into the lower end. Most will need a full set of sleeves when you get in them.
Thanks, sounds like a rebuild is in order, I did check the oil cooler and its and ok. I have looked online and saw many kit options, what suppliers are reputable? Are there other major maintenance issues to deal with while this deep in?
Likely is a liner with a pin hole. But there are freeze/Welch plugs under each rocker cover - hopefully they were checked or replaced during the first repair.
You will have a good job ahead of you, You will need a service book, and some good lifting equipment. I would leave the trans in the machine, there is a plate on the bell housing that allows you to take the bolts loose from the flex plate to flywheel. Try to leave the upper end together so you can add water to hand pump the cooling system once out, with the oil pan off to see where the water is leaking inside. These engines do this over time, most will need all six liners replaced and the lower block area checked for pitting. Some may have been cut and sleeved along with the top deck cut. Always mark your sleeves when removing. I would also plan on rod and main bearings while out. You have to take a good look at everything, how does the damper look, is the rubber pushed out any ?.
For what its worth there is a product you can buy called IronTite, its is used commonly on older Cummins diesels to keep water from seeping out from under the heads, this caused but low liner projection and or worn counter bores, it comes in two flavors, red and blue , if my memory is correct the blue is regular strength and the red is the super duper formula. Here's my 2 centz worth, I have a 76 western star wrecker that I use to bring new treasures home and occasionaly go rescue a stuck dump truck out of a septic tank that was ''way over there'', or a bulldozer with an overzellous operator. It started getting a little condensation in the oil but when you used it it would steam it out of the oil after an hour or two, after about a year of this little ballet , it fills the base slam up with water, water running out of the dipstick full. 2 cans of red irontite and 3 years later it still holds antifreeze, '' NO WARRANTY EXPRESSED ,WRITTEN,OR IMPLIED'' but it kept my water green and my oil black.
You gotta love those moving septic tanks, I crushed the lid on one with a fire truck! Not my fault, but the ribbing I took from my fellow firefighters was creative. I'll look for iron-tight and give it a try, it can't hurt at this point and I can schedule the rebuild for a better time.
akh, where in nc are you?i live about 10 miles north of greenville