580K phase III Well i have had it After a period of intermittent operation my gauges finally died. I have been working on the side instrument panel wiring for a week. It is no use. The gauge cluster is a wreck anyway. And is way too much money to replace. I have tried everything normal. Heck you cannot even follow the wire color descriptions from the service manual. Some special college educated book writer must have written this disjointed manual. None of the wire colors are correct. Most of my wires are not even the colors called for. This machine is simple. It should be no problem to trace wires. ---- I could go on but think it best to move on to my questions. 1 - Am i going to run into trouble getting aftermarket gauges to work with factory sending units? 2 - We count 4 needed warning lights: Trans filter switch / master cylinder reservoir / hydraulic filter switch / air filter switch. Any trouble wiring them to a normal warning light? 3 – I have a bundle of wires behind the transaxle you could wire a pickup with. There is nothing back there but a backup warning device. What is that all about? 4 - What is a proximity switch used for and where is it? Thanks
Well, first of all, you never did give us an update on how the loader bucket cylinder rebuild went. Bad boy! :nono Maybe some Case guys here can help you with wiring, but as for "aftermarket gauge" working with OEM sending units, that rarely works, you usually have to change the sending unit to a unit that is made for the gauge installed. Warning lights, not a problem. Any 12V warning light should work with the existing switches. Lastly, what's the prox sensor...where did that come from?
Loader bucket cylinder re-seal went well. Thank you for your help. As i keep going over the wiring diagrams and such, i keep running into a "proximity switch" and a boom lock switch. two things i cannot find on the machine or can think of any use for.
Boom lock switch...I don't know. I think I remember the return to dig on the loader used a prox switch, been too long since I've worked on one of these machines.
The proximity switch is used for the return to dig function. Pretty easy to check that to see if it's working. 3 wires to it look at the schematic I don't have one right in front of me but all you need to do is jumper 2 of the wires. If return to dig does not work I'll bet it's the wiring harness tie wrapped to the loader hoses too tight, and pulled the wires apart. Usually breaks somewhere along the harness tied to the hoses. Usually any trouble with the dash is related to fuses, cab relay or the circuit board not the actual gauges. The circuit board portion is about $50 last I priced it, but you can check on that. People tend to yank the dash out without disconnecting the plug, you will notice the copper strands that contact the plug may be bent or broke off. Remove the side dash/console. First thing to check is the main cab relay, right behind the park brake handle. Notorious for corroding and causing dash and any cab function to become flaky. There are 6 or more wires on that 100 amp relay. Second is the fuse panel also mounted so close to the floor that the moisture corrodes the wires. Take the fuse blocks right out and check them I'll bet more than one had a corroded wire. The dash circuit is a 10amp fuse I bet it's corroded. The plug behind the trans axle is the main harness plug for the machine check it for corrosion. I've never had a dash in a 580K that couldn't be fixed without a lot of money put into it. I think Phil would agree. If you can be more specific we can get this dash working...honest
I'm just reading the excellent write-up gggraham has on 580K wiring, thinking I've got to save this text, and there's my name . Yes given enough time and money, wiring problems can be worked through. I'm not good with electrical problems though, but I do know that with time one will become quite familiar with the layout and be able to isolate the problem. Proxes: Inductive sensors sense the change in magnetic field, used to detect ferrous metal, and capacitive sensors sense the ability of a material to hold a magnetic charge, often used in level control, if I remember that right. Reed switches and I believe Hall-effect switches both require a magnetic source to trigger. Sensors of this type are now showing up in lots of heavy equipment due to computer control of injection systems, and other machine systems. Sensor wiring is often 'small' gauge, with low voltage and current flow, and requires care. I've just bought a later 580K, with only the voltmeter working . Phil
As the others have posted most of the wiring issues on my 580K were corrosion and poor contact. I have managed to get everything working but the tach/speedo. on mine. I did away with the wiring for the radio and fixed up the rear wiper and a few other things while I had the headliner down. If you are patient most of it can be fixed without needing parts. I am not good at wiring stuff but a bit of emery cloth and some electric grease got most of my stuff working again. Heck, I even have all the lights front and rear working now!! Just need to repair a few turn signal lenses and it would be great.
Pictures Behind transaxle wiring Ignition switch area Gauge wiring and area
More instrument wiring The old fuse blocks were done. Replaced and cleaned up wiring.
proximity switch A proximity switch is usually a metal detection device, it consists of a transmitter and a receiver unit (quite small) that detects when it is blocked by a piece of metal or vice versa unblocked. Usually concerned with safety!
Yes the main cluster is in pieces held together by tape. As you can see the clear cover panel is not very clear these days. The circute film seems intact yet showing wear. To replace the gauge cluster = Part # A187965 - $826.67 If you think that is shocking price a wire harness. The circuit film = $29.31 / Mine is still intact but is showing a lot of wear. The clear plastic shield = $75.38 / Time has not been kind to the plastic. Cannot see gauges thru it. So the parts i would need = $104.69 I can buy a set of gauges for around $50.00 and have a better repair. Over the years there have been a lot of attempts to keep these gauges working. They wore out all of the mounting hardware and holes they had it apart so many times. Some of the wires have been hacked. My manual does not show clear enough to understand what some of the damaged wires were supposed to be doing.
Wiring up front by trans filter. Yes I have a slight hydraulic leak. still trying to locate exact source. I think i have more wiring than gauge troubles. Considering the condition of my gauges. If i am going to redo the wiring i am replacing the gauges. The gauges i have my eye on call for a standard floating ground sending unit. I believe that is the system the cummins uses. Can someone give me specifics of factory fuel sender? 240 - 33 OHM sender is what new gauge is calling for. I think.
Well today my helper and i traced all the wires out using a Continuity test. Most everything passed. > Just a few more details to iron out. > Like those two relays up by the Hydraulic fill. One is for the clutch cut out switches the other i am still pondering. > Why does the oil pressure sending unit show up in about four different wires? One wire is power to - one wire is the warning light - one to the gauge -then ??? > one of the top temp sending units traces back fine. The other (the one closest to the alt) cannot be traced anywhere. > the air intake restriction monitor takes two wires. One ground and one power? You are correct. They could not figure out how to join the side console wire harness to the main wire harness. So they just looped it around behind the transaxle and called it a day. Mine was a mess. From all the years of instrument troubles? Anyway it is supposed to be accessed thru the rear floor panel. I took my panel out unhooked all the wires and routed them up as best as i could. Orderd some marine gauges for $85.00. If i can make this work out it should be the end of my gauge troubles. Thanks
from memory that other relay is the starter.
Either Starter or return to dig.... I are confused by it. Some how i have a relay in the side console that is tied into ignition. It comes on with ignition - kills the gauges while cranking, then stays engaged continually. That cannot be right. The manual shows no relay in side console unless you have some anti-theft feature. It does mention a starter relay down by the main cab relay but it does not show up in the schematics or CNH. Thanks for checking in on me
Ok i got the relays up by Hydraulic fill figured out. The front one does return to dig and clutch cutout. The rear one is the starter relay. Making progress
Making slow progress. Yesterday took most of the day to fix the cab lights. Got the side panel switch working. No lights. Traced wires for awhile. Found power to lights going up the wrong wire bundle. All the wiring correct everything testing good. Took out all the top ROPS plugs. And got to thinking and testing. They had wired into the wrong ROPS connectors. Got that straighted out and now have lights working of stock four position switch. The manual claims 8 lights available. I have controls for four. That works out for me as there only four lights on cab. Does it take another light switch to run the other four? I need to look for another switch plug to power another set of lights. Anyway other than fixing the starter solenoid energize wire (How hey had it wired beats me) the stock main harness seems to be intact. That makes things easier but still time consuming. They could have done alot better job on this manual.
Interesting, these pictures and all the great info will come in handy for when I have time to figure out my own!
I took the pressure washer inside my 580K cab today, only the voltmeter works, also the oil pressure idiot light, so I felt I had nothing to loose. Took the floor mat and foam sheet out. Blasted all the dirt out the missing back window. Gave the fuse panel a wash off, what a mess. Shift lever for the 4 wheel drive is seized solid. Gear shift linkages are all seized. I don't think Case has made any improvement to their dashes, since the 580B but the rest of the machine sure works nice. Phil
Good to read i am not just typing to myself. I figured out the lights. No thanks really to this joke book Case calls a manual. Up on the front dash there are supposed to be another four way rotary light switch and a flasher rotary switch. My light switch was broken off flush. I could not get that panel off. They had somehow got nuts and bolts in there. I finally had to cut the bolts off to get in there. My machine only has four lights and one working rotary switch left. The manual kept saying there was a four way flasher switch up there but made it hard for me to find the other light switch. So the Front switch operates 4 diving lights – Two front / Two rear Which must be what my four lights were wired to. The side console switch operates 4 work lights – Two front – Two rear. Those lights must be missing from my machine. Case wants $56.92 for a replacement Rotary switch, and I am not sure if that is complete. They list a switch / knob / washer / screw I may just live with one switch and four lights. My rear stop / turn lights are a mess and an odd size. Case wants $34.46 per incandescent light. I think I have an idea to replace all four for that price. Simple really? Problems left. 1 - I have a bad reading on the purple wire going to the brake master cylinder. 2 - I still have not fully understood all the red wires going to the fuse block. Red/blue = clutch cutout and return to dig and Red/yellow = cannot find in the schematic Red/white = Cab lights Red/black = Cab lights Solid red = ??? But somehow they are all interconnected because if I put a fuse in one I read power on all of them. My big problem 3 – That relay in the side instrument panel. The manual shows a warning device there. the plug leading to it is factory. But the wiring to the relay does not look to good. The new gauges should be here soon and I can move on to new problems.
Amunder. The switch listed with a switch/knob/washer/screw may not all be nec. The old switches had a hex shaped post, the newer upgraded switches had a square post. If you have a square post switch all you need is the switch. If the post is hex shaped you need the switch and the knob. Assuming you can get the screw out of the other switch. Check your email, sent you a schematic from a training manual may help with the RTD problem.
I know i work slow But am still making progress. I had a wire mess by the trans filter and the bad purple wire going to the master cylinder. Took out front floor panel and got into it. Come to find out those wires where never supposed to be in there. A thorough inspection revealed lots of damage in three locations and the one broke wire. Once i got the wires repaired / patched and routed up behind that rubber flap panel behind motor; things in that compartment all laid in nice; and fixed the mess. Made more progress on the gauges. After a long wrestle with gauge panel material i settled on Star Board. The stuff is inexpensive - very durable - easy to work with. But not very scratch resistant. I had some trouble with the hole saw because the stuff melted as much as cut. Progress on gauge panel I will start wiring the gauges tomorrow. Hope it all works as i hope
anyone know where i can find the plastic console that goes around the instrument cluster? mine is a 580 k as well.
Amunderdog, so how did it all go, did the 240 - 33 OHM fuel gauge work with the sender and did the aftermarket gauges work with the original senders?
No. Had to buy an oil pressure sending unit and a water temp sender. Have not installed them yet. The fuel gauge still does not work may be the sender unit. Have not done anymore testing on it. I will try and get some pictures later.
No worries, thanks for the heads-up. I will price senders when I get my gauges. I will put the multimeter on my sender next chance I get, to see if it works (and match a gauge to it) Your set-up looks good too! Clean and simple.
All i have done for now. It may be spring before i work on it again. Have other things to mend and another blown cylinder packing. I may just get a whole machine kit and start working on rebuilding cylinders.
Thanks for such a great post. My 580 Super K has dash panel problems as well. I'm going to us all this info when i get started on mine.
What brand of gauges and lights did you use?
Fuel level sender I've just been messing about with my sender unit and the resistance from one end of the winding to the other =90ohms. Therefore I'd hazard a guess that the 580k's have a 0-90ohm sender/gauge setup.
Thanks so much for posting this info; I have a 580K that is mechanically perfect, but the electrical is a mess, nothing seemed to work except the tach and volt meter. This info gives me a great starting point to refurb the wiring. Can someone tell me where the cut out switch originates, and how it is routed? Looks like it starts around the hydraulic fill port, and is red/ blue? WOuld love to know where it starts, and where it finishes to test it.
Your cutout switch (fuel solenoid) gets it's supply from the ignition switch. When the key is on, you should have 12v at the solenoid.
Sorry, I should have been more specific; I think I meant the clutch cut out? My gear shift and FEL control both have buttons on them that I understand put the transmission in neutral, for shifting and adding more hydraulic power to the FEL. This is the line I am trying to trace, from source to the button on the shifter & FEL control.
To check the operation of the switches you can take the plug off the cutout solenoid on the power shuttle, press the buttons on the shift and gear levers and see if you have continuity, between the two pins in the plug. Beyond that, you'll need the wiring diagram, which I don't have on this computer. I did email one to jlcross recently on his "Case 580k wiring" thread. (I'm assuming you have a 580k phase 1, with the BorgWarner power shuttle)
The cutout solenoid is located under your right heal in driving position. You need to remove the front floor board to access.
Vostros could share some of the wiring diagram of this 580k.Tengo many electrical problems and I'm a little desperate.